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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 8536
Experience:  16 years automotive and OTR repair
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My driver side window works when it wants to. and when I t

Customer Question

hi my driver side window works when it wants to. and when I hit the switch to go down it makes a buzzing noise and doesn't go down. and I do have multiple window master door switches. pls I want my window to work. help me. and I have also tried buying a new window regulater. and that didn't work either.
JA: How would you describe the sound? Does it happen more when you're braking? Shifting gears?
Customer: it happens all the time even not driving.
JA: What is the model/year of your Chevy?
Customer: 2005 chev colorado
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: yes. tried to change the window motor. and I have three master window controls for the driver door. and it works when it wants. and right now if I press the swich it will roll the two windows down on the pass side. but the dr side both don't work and it buzzes when you try to roll them up or down.
JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?
Customer: that's all I can think of.
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Chevy Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 4 months ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.


All there really is to these window circuits are the switches and the motors. Just so I am clear, when you try to use either of the driver side windows you get a buzzing noise? Is this noise coinciding with which window you are trying to operate (front window makes front door buzz, rear window makes rear door buzz), or is the buzz from the same location regardless?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
the buzz comes from the front switch and don't matter if its the front window or the back window on driver side.
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.

Thanks. That greatly increases our odds of their being either a switch or wiring issue in the driver door.
You mentioned having multiple driver master switches... are these all used or is at least one new? Is there any change in behavior when you use a different master switch?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
one is an ebay bought and the other two are used. and all three are doing the same thing.
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.


Lets pull the switch out or door panel off, whichever is easiest for you, and operate the drivers window... does the buzzing come directly from the switch assembly itself or is it possible it is from below the switch?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
it comes from the switch. but when I un plug it from the window motor the buzz stops.
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I used a test light and im getting power to the plug. (the window motor plug)
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.


The power to the switch is the same for the left side of the vehicle as for the right, so we should be good in that respect.
If you unplug the drivers window motor the buzz no longer occurs... what about if you try to operate the drivers rear window with the front window motor unplugged... does it buzz again, or does unplugging the front window motor stop both buzzes?

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
stops both buzzes.
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.

Interesting. Yet the rear window still doesn't work correct?
What if you unplug the rear window motor, does that change the buzz situation or the operation at all?

Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.

If there is no change in operation (neither still work), please take a look at the drivers fender area and see if you can locate a ground there that might be loose/corroded; or alternately, run a temporary ground to the black wire on pin 3 of the master switch and see if that changes the condition.

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
ok I will look and try that if need be.
Expert:  Doug replied 4 months ago.

Give it a shot... it sounds like it will probably be a bad ground for the driver side of the vehicle. The ground relevant should be the one on the drivers fender, however of course there is always the possibility of damaged wiring in between the ground point and the switch... that is where running a temporary ground is good alternative to verify the failure/correction and then determine if we need to dig into the wiring harness to find the break (typically in the door jam area where the door flexes open) or just leave it be with the auxiliary ground you added etc.

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