Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi,All there really is to these window circuits are the switches and the motors. Just so I am clear, when you try to use either of the driver side windows you get a buzzing noise? Is this noise coinciding with which window you are trying to operate (front window makes front door buzz, rear window makes rear door buzz), or is the buzz from the same location regardless?
Thanks. That greatly increases our odds of their being either a switch or wiring issue in the driver door.You mentioned having multiple driver master switches... are these all used or is at least one new? Is there any change in behavior when you use a different master switch?
Hmm.Lets pull the switch out or door panel off, whichever is easiest for you, and operate the drivers window... does the buzzing come directly from the switch assembly itself or is it possible it is from below the switch?
Thanks.The power to the switch is the same for the left side of the vehicle as for the right, so we should be good in that respect.If you unplug the drivers window motor the buzz no longer occurs... what about if you try to operate the drivers rear window with the front window motor unplugged... does it buzz again, or does unplugging the front window motor stop both buzzes?
Interesting. Yet the rear window still doesn't work correct?What if you unplug the rear window motor, does that change the buzz situation or the operation at all?
If there is no change in operation (neither still work), please take a look at the drivers fender area and see if you can locate a ground there that might be loose/corroded; or alternately, run a temporary ground to the black wire on pin 3 of the master switch and see if that changes the condition.
Give it a shot... it sounds like it will probably be a bad ground for the driver side of the vehicle. The ground relevant should be the one on the drivers fender, however of course there is always the possibility of damaged wiring in between the ground point and the switch... that is where running a temporary ground is good alternative to verify the failure/correction and then determine if we need to dig into the wiring harness to find the break (typically in the door jam area where the door flexes open) or just leave it be with the auxiliary ground you added etc.