Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello, I'd be happy to help! I have to ask the most obvious questions first, so have you checked the battery, cable ends, etc? Do we know for sure there are good clean connections on both positive and negative terminals?
Ok, do you have access to a multimeter?
Ok, and is it automatic or manual trans?
Ok let me study the wiring diagram give me a few seconds.
In the meantime, have you checked the crank fuse yet?
You'll need to have someone try to crank it while that fuse is plugged in and check for power on the fuse, it's only powered when the switch is turned to start
It is a two-blade fuse and not a square fuse correct?
If its four blades it sounds like you're looking at the relay. Are the blades pointed in different directions from one another?
Ok, have someone crank it again while you keep your hand on that relay, see if you feel it click.
can you access the park/neutral safety switch on top of the transmission?
Actually, can you access the starter first? I know you said the click doesn't sound like its coming from the starter but we still need to check it if possible.
If you can get your meter on the solenoid wire for the starter check for power on that wire while its being cranked. Be sure to have the ground lead on a good ground.
Ok, I apologize but an emergency has come up and I won't be available for a while, I'm going to open this up for other experts so you're not waiting on me. Don't replace that starter if that's the measurement you got. You have another issue causing it. Try swapping the crank relay with another like it if there is more than one of those types in that fuse box.
Go back and check the battery voltage. It should be 12 volts with the key off. Then turn the key to start and read the battery voltage again. If it drops below 9.6 volts, the battery will have to be charged up first before anything else.
How did you charge the battery and at what amperage did you charge it at?
It sounds as though the battery isn't fully charged because of the click which is now clicking, like it's getting more voltage but just not enough.
When you release the key from start, it doesn't come back to the accessory position, it comes back to the run position as if when the engine did start, that is where the key would be when the engine is running and everything else is also on, so just ignore that for now.
What is the voltage of the battery both with key off and key on start?
Ok, I suppose you meant to say when the dash lights go out, not dash lifts. Anyhow, if you cannot tell me specifically which relays are making a noise, let's just ignore that for right now.
I want to take a look at the wiring diagram now so I need to know what engine is in this?
At this point, I would try a new crank relay.
Ok, put your finger on that relay and turn the key to start and let me know if you can feel the relay click. If not, remove that relay and test for voltage in the socket. You should have voltage at one spot all the time and then when the key is turned to start an additional hot. Let me know the results of those 2 tests.
Here is the Starting Circuit wiring diagram,
If there is no power to the relay socket to at least one spot, check that "batt 2" fuse in the underhood fuse block, left front of engine compartment. There are more fuses to check, but let me know what you have so far.
Did you get a chance to do those tests yet?
No, you didn't do all that. You forgot, "put your finger on that relay and turn the key to start and let me know if you can feel the relay click. If not, remove that relay and test for voltage in the socket. You should have voltage at one spot all the time and then when the key is turned to start an additional hot. Let me know the results of those 2 tests."
I need specific answers, not just done all that. I don't know what all that means,