Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi there, I am Cam. Sorry to hear about this issue.Is this a early 2007 or late 2007?
Sorry, driving to work.
What's your vin?
The crank fuse in the dash should only get power with the key in start.
Try removing the starter relay, the wire jumper the pins to correspond to 30 and 87 stamp on the bottom of the relay. It will be opposite corners to each other. This should make starter turn. Can you tell me if it does?
Ok, as bad as it sounds, that tells me its not the computer. I need to verify that you made sure to use the proper terminals. Often people forget that looking at the bottom of the relay will be a mirror image to the fuse block. Please verify and if you did it correctly, tell me if one of those 2 pins have power all the time.
Ok, so one moment, pulling up the schematic again.
You said you replaced the pass lock sensor, is this the black ring module around the key?
That is a module that needs to be programmed using the GM programming server and programming tool. A simple repeal will not do that. There is nothing I Can do to help you program that over the internet. Do you still have the old one?
Put that back in please, then do a reset. Take the battery cables off the battery, hold the ends together for 10 seconds then attach them to the battery and see what happens. This will reset the whole vehicle.If you have 2 batteries, then remove both and touch only one set. This reset is more about touching the cables together when off the battery than taking them off. The act of touching them drains the capacitors and forces it to reset.Then after that, have someone hold their finger on the relay of the starter and see if it clicks. If not then I would look at the ignition switch itself. Its about 35$ to replace and usually the issue on these ones. That module you replaced is the passkey 3+ module and rarely do they fail.
Its not pass lock though, its passkey, different system.Try swapping and see.
The ignition switch are common for this. There is a special resistor inside and it may have changed.
It’s a messed up system, RFID chip in the key and a modified pass lock system IN the ignition SWITCH. I bet the relearn you did on that helped that.Replace the switch.
OK, what codes are currently set?
No, codes stored in the computer. We must scan to to see what codes are now set. I feel that we might be spinning our wheels until we do that.
You need a scanner. IF you don't have one, a simple reader called BlueDriver can be used. It uses an app through your smart phone to connect to the vehicle and will scan all system modules. Its 99$ on amazon and does most every vehicle from 1995 to present.
The scan tool many of the part stores may only read engine codes. The little one I suggest will read all system codes. Of course the best would be to have a GM dealer scan it but that does defeat your coming here.
Ok so the fuse pops, that is actually good. IT gives us a direction. Something on that circuit is pulling too much power. That fuse feeds the ECM, the Fuel pump control module and the transfer pump if you have 2 fuel pumps. WE need to trace down that wire and find if its shorted to ground anywhere. If not then its one of those three items. Attached is the schematic.
It's possible, if it's only drawing too much or shorting to the frame then no. The fuel pump control modules are common for issues on these, corrosion resulting from water getting through the back. Let me add that with it running for a bit then popping the fuse, it does not sound as much like a short on the frame and more like a module drawing too much fuel.
The module is near the back. Usually a box on the frame with a large connector out of the centre. Being a dump truck it might have been moved. Yes you can try disconnecting the rear pump but it might disable your fuel level sensor and show empty but for testing this is a good idea.
Here it is.