Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi there, I Am Cam. Can I get your first name please?What year and engine is in your truck?
Do you happen to know what brand of crank sensor you installed?
Very strange, OK, what is the condition of the connector going into the sensor. Was there corrosion? Stretched terminals?
Does it lack power at any time? Is there a remote starter installed on this vehicle?
I would consider getting warranty on your sensor as it sounds like its failed again. To work perfectly for a couple weeks then fail suggests its bad again.
I am sorry for the long wait
new expert here did you still need help ?
can you be 100 % sure these grounds are clean and tight especially the one at the top back of the intake manifold
what bothers me is the gauges going out
will this act up enough or long enough to test some voltages at a few fuses ?
when its acting up it would be great to know what the volts are at fuses IGN0 and IGN1 in the inside fuse box
i am really leaning towards an ignition switch causing these problems
ok lets see what those 2 fuses read when its acting up
Hey Matt, I am Back. I have a question, when it does not start after it stalls, will it fire if you put some fuel in the throttle body?
Lets try it and see what happens.
Do you have a scanner that can read cranking RPM?
Ok, its not the cranking speed I am concerned with, rather what the computer is seeing for cranking speed. On another note, have you checked the cam sensor at the top back of the block yet?
No, the 2 knock sensors are under the intake, the cam sensor is at the very back top of the engine block and there is only one.
It would seem your PCM is the issue then. You need to replace it then perform the theft released. Many part stores will sell you one programmed to your vin. After that, it only needs a theft relearn.
Turn the key on and attempt to start the car, It may crank, it may start and stall or it may do nothing at all, this is fine, still cycle the key to start then release the key back to run. Wait 10 minutes with the key in run. The passlock light should be flashing and the DIC will say "Service Vehicle" or "Security" or have a picture of a car with a lock during that 10 minute span. After 10 minutes has passed, turn off the car, count to 10, and try to start it again and release the key back to run. Wait another 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, turn car off 10 seconds and try to start again and release the key to run. Wait another 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, turn car off 10 seconds and try to start again. It should start up this time. The passlock has been learned. During this process, turn the fans off, radio off and cycle the headlights off so the battery will not go dead. If needed, use a battery charger.
So we must have a wiring issue around the Pcm then, possibly under the fuse block. Its very strange that it worked after putting in a different PCM but not a new PCM.
OK, have we revisited all of the grounds on the engine?
IT goes beyond adding grounds to making sure the ground wires that attach to the engine are good. Having good grounds from the engine to the body and battery are important.
OK, I would agree the block is grounded then, but the PCM and such ground to the block in a different place, so if the connections of those wires to the block are bad, it would cause an issue.The replacement engine, was it the exact fit? Ordered for your VIN or a wrecker engine?
I am not sure how to direct you now. I am positive I could get it if I was sitting there with my scanner, but in the absence of that, I am not sure.