Chevrolet Repair Questions? Ask a Chevy Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Unhook the alternator and see if the light goes out.
Are you sure this engine isn't a 5.3l? Anyhow, the owners manual says there are 3 fuse boxes, 2 of them inside, perhaps you just missed one or never knew it was there.
There is the Instrument Panel Fuse Block, on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel and there is the center instrument panel utility block is located underneath the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column.
I read that. So, at this moment you have every fuse, relay and circuit breaker pulled, the alternator disconnected, the doors shut, hood closed, key out and there is still a drain?
You know you should really be using an ammeter, because the test light doesn't give you an accurate reading although it can be used if you don't have an ammeter, it's just that you don't know how bad the drain is.
No, you can't do it that way. What if there are 2 drains? Plus, the computer and anything with memory will always show a drain, although it should be small and that is exactly why an ammeter should be used, cause the drain might be 12 volts but it might only be .001 amps, which is ok.
You have to pull every fuse, circuit breaker and relay and leave them out and look at the meter after pulling each one, plus make sure the door are closed or push in on the door jamb switch nd also allow 30 minutes for all the modules to go to sleep once you hook up the test light or ammeter.
Yes, that box by the steering column houses the circuit breakers and relays, but they still need to be pulled when testing for a drain.
The maximum drain should be no more than 50 mA, that's 0.050 amps.
Yeah. Here, it's in the owners manual, page 5-114. https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2004/chevrolet/tahoe/2004_chevrolet_tahoe_owners.pdf
If the link don't work and they ask you to signin or signup, I here is the manual, it's compressed though, so you need winzip or WinRAR to unzip it.
I do see the seat circuit breaker in that box.
What do you mean no help? Did you look at page 5-114 and see that fuse/relay box?
An owners manual is just that for the owners. It shows limited info but it had what you asked for and what I was looking for, them fuse boxes. It don't have wiring diagram, which I can get but first I need to know what fuse, circuit breaker, or relay is experiencing the drain.
Let me see if there are instructions on accessing that fuse box. Hold on.
You see now the repair manual is saying there is a fuse box on the right side of the instrument panel and here is that section,
It appears that is in addition to the others.
Here are the Electrical Center Identification Views
Make sure the MBEC 1 fuse (50a) in the underhood fuse box is pulled. It feeds that relay box and the right door and seat circuit breakers.
Also, pull the SIR fuse, it feeds that relay block too and the inside rearview mirror and air bag modules.
Here are the power distribution wiring diagrams starting with the last page to the first,
Sorry, a couple were skipped.
no wonder it was throwing sparks.
I'll look it up, in the meantime what did you mean by " It drops to 1.76amps and then to 0.01 amps"? What made it drop both times?
that 4ws feeds the rear wheel steering control module and the evap solenoid. It's on this page
Put that fuse back in, get a reading then unhook each of those 2 items and check the meter after unhooking each one.
The Rear Wheel Steering Control Module and the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Solenoid.
The orange wires.
So am I to understand this has rear wheel steering?
Then I suppose you won't be able to find a Rear Wheel Steering Control Module.
So no QUADRASTEER. Leave the fuse out and see if the check engine light comes on. If so or you experience any engine performance problems, then you better gain access to that orange wire and unhook it. It's possible the solenoid is bad anyhow.
By the way, is or was the check engine light remaining on past bulb check?
Autozone must have given you the wrong info. The vent solenoid is back there but the purge solenoid isn't. It's on the engine. Wo, wait a minute. We weren't suppose to be looking for the purge solenoid, but the vent solenoid and yes it is back there.
here are the instructions for replacing it which includes disconnecting the wiring,
That orange is shown in them instructions as #1.
That was for the 2500 series, this is for the 1500 series.
I thought you were trying to find and repair the drain?
No, removing the fuse will not do the same thing. what if the short is in the orange wire in between the fuse and that solenoid?
I see autozone sells that vent solenoid for $25.
Well, I am done here. I think we have narrowed it down to that vent solenoid circuit. It all depends now on whether or not you just want to remove the fuse or find and repair that circuit or replace the solenoid. I am going out to work on my car now. I'll check in on you later to see if you might have any more problems but I believe you have it narrowed down now. Don't frget to rate me well and good luck.
you are welcome. You should test it first though by disconnecting that wiring connector, that most likely includes that orange wire. If the ammeter drops below 50mA when you do that, than yes replace that solenoid. If not, then the problem is with that orange wire.
Do you have all of the fuses, relays and circuit breakers all back in now?
Is the ac compressor engaging?
You never did confirm what engine was in this.
Ok, here is the wiring diagram for the compressor, Check those 2 fuses with the test light.
If the fuses are ok, try grounding that relay wire going to the pcm and see if now the compressor kicks on. the dark green/white wire at pin 43/connector 2 of the pcm.
You are not answering my questions.
Plus, you cannot just look at a fuse, you have to test for voltage. Especially since that IGN E fuse isn't hot until the key is on run.
Now, if the fuses check out, try grounding that relay wire going to the pcm and see if now the compressor kicks on
Ok, I see you did anwser it
I am not an ac man myself. I suspect the next step would be to check the ac pressure.
Anyhow, back to the battery drain, what's up with that?
Yeah, I got that.
40 miles? Order it online.
Ok, I am going out now. I'll check back in from time to time.
It's going to remain warm if the compressor doesn't stay engaged anyhow. Did you look around for a solenoid closer or are you going to at least test that solenoid. Like I asid, I am not an ac man, so that I don't know much about.
Just checking in. Are you sure that compressor isn't just cycling off and on?
Have you disconnected the orange wire from that solenoid yet?
What do you mean my expertise isn't up to par? I told you I wasn't an ac man and I did locate the problem with the battery drain and I am not even there.
Ok then, that is what I was originally working on. I am not an ac man.
No I shouldn't. That is ac.
I'm going back outside before it starts to rain here.
Well? I still don't have an answer to that and you just said and I quote "I told you all of that earlier.", then you insulted me.
So that's it? I spend all day with you and I told you I am wanting to work outside here and am here on the pc for a little while and you ignore me?
I am trying to get this battery drain problem fixed or at least know what has to be done but you quit right at the most important spot.
I cannot answer any ac problems, I just don't know enough about it.
Ok, I am going back outside now.
I'm back in now.