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Gary, Chevy Technician
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Experience:  15 years GM master tech
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I have a 2000 chevy express van with Braun Wheelchair lift

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I have a 2000 chevy express van with Braun Wheelchair lift & hand controls. I am having difficulty starting the van with key or remote start. The fuel pump runs, as it should, and I begin cranking and sometimes it fires right up and other times it will crank just fine but will not start. If I start this van up approx. every 4 hrs or less it's trouble free. If I let it sit overnight, it's is a crap shoot whether it will start overnight. Ghost problem? I did have total failure back in Feb.2013, when my mechanic replace some sensors, Crank and cam and new disrtributor. Replaced fuel filter recently air filter new. I do believe this to be electronic but where do go from here?

Welcome! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will do my best to assist you with this problem.Ask me about added features such as phone contact anytime if you wish !

im sorry your having this problem

if its started with the ignition key in the truck will it still act like this ?

when it will not start how do you get the van to start up

is this a 1/2 ton ?

what size engine is in the van ?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Ignition key seems to make no difference
To get it to start? Very sparratic. Usually, I attempt to start with remote button. But if that does not work I have gone inside van and tried key. It does seem to help if I turn key on and off numerous times and once it makes attempts to fire. I repeat the process. And if that does not work I let it sit a couple of hrs then try again. The mystery is when it decides to start it is instantaneous. Leaving it sit overnight without running it, will not start in morning. I can hear fuel pump running and it cranks just fine. Even put new battery. 1/2 ton yes.
4.3 v6 engine

ok Jim the most common problem causing exactly what your van is doing is the fuel system loosing its prime

this can be caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator on the injection unit under the black upper intake manifold to the most common the one way check valve built into the fuel pump is allowing fuel pressure to run back through the pump loosing the prime

which keying it on and off will sometimes build up enough pressure for it to run

your best bet is to have a fuel pressure gauge connected to the test port on the engine and key ON engine OFF see what the pressure is it should be 60 to 66 PSI and the needle should hold and NOT drop down

the odds are the pressure will drop down to 0 very fast which shows fuel pressure is your problem then the fuel pressure gauge should be connected to the fuel line from the fuel tank into the fuel filter and just connect that fuel line right into the gauge

key ON engine OFF test again if the PSI still drops the fuel pump is bad if the PSI holds within spec then the fuel bleed off is the regulator or the injection assembly

which replacing the injection assembly would fix this problem

and of course if the fuel PSI is holding but below 60 PSI key on engine off the fuel pump is bad


Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks Gary, I originally said that was it but I had no idea where this check valve was. Can you give me a more specific name of the part? Part no. Maybe? And location on manifold? I would appreciate it? Drawing maybe? Realize this is a van and I have to to take the engine cover off inside the van. I have someone that can do it for me once I get it to run again?

the fuel pump is basic the fuel tank needs to be removed and the fuel tank module/fuel pump assembly needs to be changed

print this out or save it to your computer ASAP as the pictures time out quickly in here



# XXXXX is the regulator







  1. Remove the engine cover. Refer to Engine Cover Replacement.
  2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement.
  3. Disconnect the PCV tube from the air cleaner outlet duct.
  4. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct from the throttle body. Refer to Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Replacement.
  5. Disconnect the accelerator control cable from the throttle shaft and the accelerator control cable bracket. Refer to Accelerator Controls Cable Replacement.
  6. Disconnect the cruise control cable, if equipped from the throttle shaft and the accelerator control cable bracket. Refer to Cruise Control Cable Replacement.





  1. Remove the PCV valve hose assembly from the intake manifold and the valve rocker arm cover.





  1. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
    • The fuel meter body assembly connector (1)
    • The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve (2)
    • The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (3)





  1. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
    • The Throttle Position (TP) sensor (1)
    • The Idle Air Control (IAC) motor (2)
    • The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sensor (3)
    • The A/C high pressure switch (4), if equipped





  1. Remove the engine wiring harness bracket from the intake manifold stud.
  2. Move and secure the engine wiring harness out of the way.





  1. Disconnect the A/C vacuum hose from the intake manifold.
  2. Remove the power brake booster vacuum hose bracket and nut from the intake manifold stud.
  3. Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum hose from the intake manifold.





  1. Remove the accelerator control cable bracket from the throttle body and the intake manifold.
  2. Remove the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Replacement.
  3. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel meter body assembly. Refer to Fuel Hose/Pipes Replacement (Engine Compartment).
  4. Remove the distributor cap. Refer to Distributor Replacement.
  5. Remove the ignition control module. Refer to Ignition Coil and ICM Replacement.





  1. Remove the studs for the upper intake manifold.
  2. Remove the upper intake manifold.





  1. Remove the upper intake manifold gasket from the groove.
  2. Discard the gasket.





  1. Remove the seal from the fuel meter body assembly.
  2. Discard the seal.


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