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ASEMaster35yrs
ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience:  ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
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Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4x4: My 93 s10 blazer wont start.

Resolved Question:

My 93 s10 blazer won't start.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Don Knight replied 2 years ago.
Good morning.If you have the correct fuel pressure and spark at the plugs,the next step is to check for the correct compression.Your timing chain may have jumped causing you to loose compression.You should have at least 100 psi on all the cylinders.Please let me know if you need more assistance,Don
Don Knight, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 1692
Experience: 40+ years
Don Knight and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
If the timing chain has jumped wouldn't the compression still be ok just not at the right time?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

The compession is between 100-120.

Expert:  Don Knight replied 2 years ago.
You have everything you need to make the engine run.I would recheck the timing and make sure that everything lines up correctly.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

What should the timing be?


I thought with all the electronics that it set the timing itself?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Relist: Incomplete answer.
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
Hi, glad to be of help.

I think you may have the plug wires in the wrong order.
First check to make sure you have #1 at TDC on compression stroke. You can
stick your finger in number one hole and tap engine over until pressure pushes
against your finger, then line up TDC mark on dampner. Look to see where the
rotor is pointing and install plug wires starting with number one and continue
clockwise in order. 1-6-5-4-3-2.

graphic
graphicgraphic

Timing is to be set at 0* TDC. This should be the largest/deepest notch in the
timing tab (see pic) http://www.s10forum.com/forum/attachments/f107/107959d1261276334-4-3-vortec-timing-timing.jpg

  1. You have to disconnect the tan/blk wire under the HVAC case just to the left
    of the transmission tunnel (passenger side) inside the truck prior to
    attempting to set the timing. You may have to pull back the carpet a bit
    to see this connector. Do not disconnect the 4 pin plug on the
    distributor. To access, take the panel directly below the glove box and
    carefully extend the harness, (it will be outside of wire bundle).

  2. The First mark on the balancer is the one for setting timing. If you use the
    Second mark it will run but poorly and overheat.





http://www.ehow.com/how_7949874_adjust-timing-43l.html





Forum links



http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/221816/





http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/4-3-vortec-timing-425199/

ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience: ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
ASEMaster35yrs and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

The wires are all in the correct spots. I have the timing mark at 0 and the rotor is at #1 wire. I can't tell for sure if it is at the top. I can't get my finger in to tell.

There is a vaccum hose back by the dist that was either unplugged or I did it when trying to loosen the cap. What does that hose do?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
Send me a picture. The vacuum hose being off won't keep it from starting but will make it run rough. I'm not there to look at it but if you have a vacuum advance on your distributor it could go there or perhaps to the MAP sensor or transmission modulator. The TDC mark on the dampner will show on both compression and exhaust stroke. Since you can't get your finger in, oull the driver's side valve cover and look to see that both valves on #1 cylinder are closed and you can turn both pushrods with your fingers and line up TDC mark, then look at rotor position.
ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience: ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
ASEMaster35yrs and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Since I'm doing things with the dist I think I will replace the cap and rotor.


Does the rotor just pull off? Right now it doesn't want to move. I found a spot for the hose on the back of the intake.

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
The ignition rotor just pulls off. You had already stated you were getting spark at the plugs isn't that correct? Are there any codes in your computer?
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.

Your cap & rotor look like this and the rotor just pulls off and pushes on. The cap screws on.

graphic

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Yes it is getting spark. I noticed the distributor and rotor are a little worn


so thought might as well change them while I'm there.


The rotor won't pull off tho, so wasn't sure if it was supposed to.


I haven't checked for codes. Will they still be there after the battery has been disconected?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
The codes will be gone. Check for codes before disconnecting the battery.
ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience: ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
ASEMaster35yrs and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

The battery got disconnected so no codes. I was told the check engine light was on before it died after I unhooked the battery to chrge it.



I got the rotor off finally it came off in pieces. The dist looked fairly worn.


When I replaced them it started but ran rough for a while then calmed down.


Took it for a drive and for the first mile or so it ran great but when I went around a corner it died but started right up. This happened at just about every corner and stopsign. When I started up out of a gully it was really sputtering but made it up.


When it is sitting I can start it just fine and idles good. The gauges on it don't work so don't know how much gas is in the tank, so I put 5 gal in it. Haven't tried driving it since.


So I was wondering what would make it die at corners and stopsign?



Thank you for all the help so far.

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
There are several things, one of which is the idle air control valve and most likely. The first thing to check is the battery and make sure the battery terminals are clean on both sides of the bolt that screw into the battery since low voltage and/or battery connections can cause malfunctions with sensor readings to the computer. Also check for vacuum leaks, cracked or loose vacuum hoses and make sure your fuel pressure is within specs, and timing is correct. When you say your gauges don't work, which ones are you speaking of, fuel only? Is your oil pressure good? Low oil pressure can shut down your fuel pump via oil pressure switch.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

All the gauges on the dash went out. Oil,temp,battery and fuel.


The only things I can see are miles,speed and the 4-5 over by the check engine, I can't think what they are now.


I cleaned the bat terminals when I took them off before charging it.


How do you check the fuel pressure?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.

With a fuel pressure gauge connected to port on the fuel rail. Looks like a schrader valve on a tire. Key on, engine off and check to see if pressure holds or drops. Have the battery checked to make sure it's good, and check charging system.

Fuel Pressure should be 58-62 psi

See video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdlUzSLRdao

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Do you need a special tool to check the fuel pressure?
Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.

You need a fuel pressure gauge. You can get one at any auto parts store. It's cheaper at Harbor Freight. Here's a link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

graphic

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

The fuel pressure gauge connects back by the distributor?


Is it the same thing where you release the fuel pressure before working on the fuel lines?



I drove it today the same path I went yesterday and it never stalled or acted sluggish, so can it be that when I went around corners the pump was starved of fuel or could it be the baffle in the tank has come loose?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
Yes, that's where the gauge hooks up and yes, starved of fuel due to a loose baffle could be the cause. Things like this don't happen often so mechanics don't look for it. Is there a reason you are not rating me with excellent service?
ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience: ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
ASEMaster35yrs and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

On my 2001 f250 with 7.3. It is leaking tranny fluid where it connects to the engine. what could that be and how do I check where it is coming from?


I also was wondering what should it cost to get the seals replaced on it?


My mechanic had already said the rear seal was leaking just a little but I'm not sure if the front is leaking now.

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
If it's leaking where you say it is, your front pump seal on trans is leaking and the trans will have to come out to replace it. Average cost at dealer is $1100 but every shop has different per hour labor costs so I would check around by phone and find the best price. The seal itself is around $10 but could need additional parts after inspection such as front pump bushing and/or torque converter. This would be the time to replace the rear main seal while the trans is out. Thank you for your accept and excellent feedback. Thank you for using just answer.
ASEMaster35yrs, Chevy Technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 2014
Experience: ASE Certified since 1972,Master Auto tech,Heavy Truck Tech ,chev dealer tech
ASEMaster35yrs and 6 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Now I have the same problem with both the 93 and the 01.


They won't start. When you turn the key they both just click.


The battery is good on both.


Does it sound like the starter or is it the solenoid?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
Yes, it sounds like the starter. First have the battery checked as with all electrical problems, the battery is the heart of the system and should be checked first. Make sure you have good connections with no paint or corrossion at your battery terminals or where the negative cable meets the block. Clean terminals on both sides of the screw that goes into the battery. A starter normally comes with a solenoid when you buy one and solenoid should be replaced with it if it doesn't.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Ok after sitting all night the blazer started just fine.


What could be getting too hot to not work last night but works after cooling down?

Expert:  ASEMaster35yrs replied 2 years ago.
Metal expands when hot and contracts when cold, also resistance increases with heat and connections can make and break simply by movement. If you find yourself in a situation where it doesn't start, many times you can get it to work by hitting the starter with a hammer or other hard object while someone holds the key in crank position. Eventually, the brushes in the starter wear out and will no longer make contact with the armature and you will need a tow. If you have power to the small wire on the starter solenoid "S" terminal with key in crank position and it does not start, replace your starter & solenoid. If you have no power to that wire in crank position, the problem will be either the neutral switch, ignition switch or security system.

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