I'm Neal and I am here to assist you. Only accept when you are happy with my assistance. If I can't help I will open your Question to other experts.

The cluster is a problem in those and can create a draw.

Here is the procedure to test for draw, including what to expect and when as far as draw.

The first thing to do is a test for a major short. Remove the positive and negative
cables from the battery. Put an Ohm-meter across the positive and negative
cable. If your reading is close to 0 Ohms then you have a direct short. You
need to trace the short before you can perform the following tests.

In order to check for parasitic draw, you need to be careful so you don't ruin your
meter. Here's what you need to do.

• If you don't already have one,

get a digital meter capable of reading up to 10 amps DC. Your battery must have
a reasonable charge for this test - it won't work if your battery is dead.

• Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter.
  Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so the dome lights are off.
• Disconnect the thick positive (Red) cable that goes down to the starer.
• To start make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red
  probe when you are reading current. You can either do this next step by just
  holding the meter probes to their respective contact points or you can use
  probes with alligator clips to snap them in place so your hands are free to do
  something else.
• Connect the positive probe to the battery
• Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your
  probe do not touch ground.
• If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it
  outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should
  now be reading the current drain on your battery.
• If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few
  minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait
  at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a
  reading.
• If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than
  that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by
  pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you
  need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed.

I did read you question but wanted to make sure you were waiting for things to power down. Based on what you described, I would suspect the cluster.

If you are talking about the 15amp in the underhood fuse box then it only powers the pcm.

That one on the end of the dash controls the pcm/bcm and the cluster

That is why I specified, Iw anted to make sure we were talking about the same one.