1994 Chevrolet ck1500 no headlights, parking lights, dome light or radio. Fuses and bulbs and headlight switch all good
Welcome to just answer.com. I'm here to help you and your 100% satisfaction is my goal. The first place I would look is the bulk head connector at the back of the fuse box and there's been a lot of problems with this connector remove it inspect it clean it and see if the problem still persists and we will test further if we need toChevy expert40853.8109215278
I'll check it now
Okay sounds good let me know what you find
Is the multi plug behind the a black plastic block with a couple of relays on it? If so, How does that come off?
Relist: Other.No reply
Hello, I'm Aran. I will try my best to answer your Chevy question and make this a positive experience. Your COMPLETE satisfaction is my goal.It looks like Chevy Expert has gone off line, so I will try and assist you. The battery junction block is against the firewall over on the passenger side. I suspect this is where our issue is as there is a fusible link that feeds all of the circuits with an issue.You mentioned checking the fuses and them being ok, did you check the fuses highlighted for power with a test light or multimeter?If there is no power then for sure start with inspecting the fusible links on the passenger side of the firewall, you will be able to find a faulty one by it either looking burned or when pulled on it will be like a rubber band because the wire will be broken inside of the insulation.Check those things and let me know, if you need clarification or have other questions, just post back here.Thanks, Aran
Checked the fuses with a multimeter and also checked the fusible links with a multimeter and they were also good. The fusible links look fine as well.
So by saying you have checked them, you have power on them is that correct?I am just trying to gather as much critical information as I can so I can accurately direct you.Thanks, Aran
Yes they all have power on both sides of the link.
Thank you for the additional information. Again I just want to make sure I get started on the right foot, that is why I ask all of the questions here.In the fuse block the fuse called the CTSY fuse, can you give me in detail how you checked this fuse for power, meaning what did you do with the leads on the meter specifically.Also how did this issue come about, did it just start one day?Thanks, Aran
Yes, driving along and they all quit working at once. With the ignition on or off multimeter grounded to the frame, no power on either side of the fuse. Also, there are a couple other fuses in line with that one.....Parking lamp fuse...no power to that either with ignition on or off.
Ok now we are getting somewhere thank you for your patience, I really think we can work through this, I just wanted to get a correct idea of the circuit so we can isolate where the issue is.So based on the information you have provided, we can assume the fusible link is good. Looking at the schematic from the start of the fusible link, the next possible location for an issue is the connector known as C202 I will include a diagram of its location.So this will be over on the passenger side behind the glove box.Pull this connector apart looking at all the terminals to make sure that non of them look burnt or spread open so as to create a bad contact there.Here is a diagram of the connector, it is located in terminal A. If you find an issue there in that connector, you can just cut the wires on either side of that connector and butt the red wires together, bypassing the connector.If there is no issue there, report back and we can move on.Thanks, Aran
I apologize for the additional reply I thought of another step for you. Looking at the diagram of the location and the diagram of the connector, they do not appear the same so we may have to make the best of it, just keep that in mind.Once you find the connector, check that red wire for POWER!!!!!, if we do not have power there, the issue is between there and the fusible link, if we have power, the issue is further inside of the dash.Thanks for your patience..Aran
Connector looks good there is also 12V from the battery side on A but not from the other side.....I will bypass now and let you know.
Cut and connected the red wires, also the black.... no change.
Thanks for the reply, so did the connector look the the 4 pin diagram I sent or was it a multiple wire block connector with many wires?I just want to make sure we are chasing the right wire, so as to not get off track.Also you mentioned power on one side of the connector and not the other, was it a red wire on both sides and does it have power now on both sides?Thanks, Aran
4 pin connector with 2 wires on either side (red & black)...red on both sides but now there is no power on either side
Wow something is weird here, when you hooked the wires together, was it 2 RED wires coming out of each side of the connector?You said prior to splicing the wires that there was power on one side is that correct?Was there any kind of spark or small arc when you touched the two wires together?I am trying to specifically isolate what we are missing here.Thanks, Aran
Ok, I just jumped directly from the battery to the bypass point (red spliced wires) and it is all working now. So, does that mean the wire from the battery to the connector was bad?
Awesome logical diagnostics, that was the next step I was going to have you do is run a jumper wire from the battery there, so you are one step ahead of me, great job!!!So now we know that the wire has an issue from the connector back towards the fusible link block, as from the bypass point forward is good as everything works.If the fusible link is good as you say then the wire has to be broken between the fusible link and the bypass point, the halfway point is where it passes through the firewall.There could be an issue on either side of that pass through, but for sure we have isolated the circuit to a point that we know where the failure is.Here is the diagram on the inside of the pass through, I would just check on both sides of it and see which side does not have power and you should be able to track down the issue.
It looks like it is the junction itsself at the firewall. Can I just bypass around it and if so should I add an in-line fuse?
You can just bypass it, you do not need a fuse as the circuit is protected by the fusible link supplying power to the circuit, so any way you choose to go around it is ok and no fuse will be needed.Thanks again for your help, just having someone give me the right information helps me a ton so kudos to you.Do you need any other clarifications on anything or do you have any other questions?Thanks, Aran
No, thank you for all the help!!!!!
No problem, if you run into any issues along the way, just post back here as any follow ups are free.Thanks again, Aran40853.9170446759