They are wired to come on as soon as the ignition comes on, but one on passenger side, squeals. But when "tapped", stops squeal.
Both fans come on at start-up.
Both hoses are hot. So it's flowing through the radiator.
When car is first started, coolant level doesn't appear to circulate with the cap off.
It slowly rises vs going down.
While driving, temp is fine until reaches normal operating temp's.
Then temp sky-rockets, extremely fast, & coolant comes out over-flow.
Accelerate to 2500-3000 rpm, temp drops for a very short time, then starts rising again.
Am able to only do this about 3 times before the temp stays in the red-zone.
What is a block test & how do I do one???
What is it that I would be looking for??
So, the presence of yellow in the liquid will signify a blown head gasket??
If I try this & no yellow, then what??
I've been working on this for over a month now & am no closer to a solution.
They shoot horses, can I shoot the car??
Dye stayed blue. After being run for approximately 5-8 minutes. I can't run it longer without have the coolant drawn in.
Again I have flushed & cleaned radiator twice so far, drained & flushed with a hose, no evidence of rust, no discoloration, etc...
Replaced cap twice, replaced water pump twice, replaced thermostat twice & temp sensor in water pump twice.
Coupler between the water pump & cam seems to be turning.
Hoses & coupling's are all new & sound.
It has & doesn't change.
But, noticed that there is a line coming from the back of the head to radiator.
Is this line supposed to have coolant coming from it & going to the radiator???
With a reverse flow system, the goes to the head first, line connects drivers-side head to the passenger side head, with banjo bolts.
Then runs along side the valve cover, line would normally go into throttle body & then from throttle body to radiator. But throttle body was by-passed. Air bleed line goes to heater core & am getting coolant there at the bleed vavle.
When I flushed the radiator, was able to flush water through upper hose & cycled through water pump & out the bottom of water pump.
How could I know (a) if by-pass is affecting or (b) making sure the block was flushed completely??
How would I be able to tell if the w-p gear is properly connected to the cam gear??
We'll take this a step at time, so far have gotten further with you good folks, then with anyone else.
Please clarify a bit more...
Take the hose from radiator, leaving the t-stat in?? while revv'ing. Or take t-stat out first & then run test??
Running that test now, please be patient.
Ok, here's problem....My upper radiator hose is lower then my t-stat & water pump, so the w. pump is empty.
In order to check the flow, where should water be run?? At the t-stat opening or the radiator cap??
Done. Excellent flow through the water pump.
Ok, have mainly flow coming out water pump because of a 2nd, lower hose that goes to the pump.
Still has a decent flow coming out the main, lower radiator hose.
If the bleeder's are open, won't it draw air in while starting??
& if bleeder is open, when started, it's just going to blow all the coolant out??
The top bleeder sits above the radiator cap, they laws of gravity/ physics says that the coolant will not get above top of radiator, ergo, always having an air pocket???
Ok, car doesn't over heat until thermostat opens & engine temp goes straight from 180 to 260.
Then coolant begins to slowly rise until it comes out the overflow.
Yes. Have followed all of y'all's directions.
Ran it for approx 5-8 minutes, dye stayed blue until a little bit of coolant got sucked in.
But repeated the test & dye stayed blue.
Running it with the dye??
Did that with the dye, soon as it hit higher rpm's & released accelerator, it started to suck up the coolant into the dye.
What would I be looking for, exactly??
Ok, I will try that in the morning. Been at this all day long.
Again, I greatly appreciate all the help & y'all will probably be chatting with me again