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I have a 1994 Caprice Classic (5.7). After running fro between 25 to 45 minutes the car get a check engine light and begins to run rough and finally stalls. I have changed the Distributor, Cap and Rotor, MAP Sensor, Ignition Module, and Coil, The plugs and wires are also new. When I allow the car to cool down it runs fine again. Any ideas?
Country: United StatesMake: ChevroletModel: Caprice ClassicYear: 1994Engine: 5.7 Already Tried: I have a 1994 Caprice Classic (5.7). After running fro between 25 to 45 minutes the car get a check engine light and begins to run rough and finally stalls. I have changed the Distributor, Cap and Rotor, MAP Sensor, Ignition Module, and Coil, The plugs and wires are also new. When I allow the car to cool down it runs fine again. Any ideas?
Hello and thank you for using JustAnswer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX X will do my best to help you with your Chevy problem.Have you checked the computer for trouble codes?
I am unable to retreive and trouble codes. I have the appropriate code reader but it does not flash any codes with the ignition switch turned on but not started.
When the engine stalls, will it not restart until it cools down?
The Engine will restart but the Check Engine Light is still on and it runs rough. If I allow the car to cool completely again it runs fine. If I keep the engine RPM elevated I can drive the car to get where I need to go but once I stop it will stall.
After the engine is warmed up and having problems, test fuel pressure with fuel pressure gauge. You should have 41-47 psi. Let me know what kind of reading you get.
OK I will check the fuel pressure once the car is warmed and get back with you
Sounds good.
Dave,I there is a huge thunderstorm here now. I will have to wait until it is over. I will get back with you with the fuel pressure readings. How long are you available today?
I will be here all day even into the evening hours some. Just let me know when you can.
One more thing I'd like you to check when you get a chance is to unplug the vacuum hose from the EGR valve at the back of the manifold to see if this makes a difference.Let me know what you find.
Hi Dave,OK I finally got a chance to check the Fuel Pressure. Key on Not srtated it reads 43 psi. Engine warmed up and Check Engine Light on it drops to 37 PSI and remains steady. From what I have read in the ALL DATA manual that is normal.
You should have 41-47 psi with the key on,engine off. 37 psi with the engine running is okay. Did you unplug the vacuum hose at the egr valve on the back side of the manifold?
Not Yet. What should happen once the vacuum hose it unplugged?
Hopefully the engine runs better. The problem could be due to an egr valve that is opening prematurely or is sticking open. If this is the case then disconnecting the egr valve would cause the engine to run properly. Try it and let me know what you find.
Currently the Check Engine Light is not on. I am waiting for it to come on and start running rough again. I did unplug the vacuum line anyway and thereseemed to be a very slight increase in engine RPM.
Yes, the vacuum leak will increase engine rpm. Let me know what happens after you have run the engine a while.
Experience: ASE Master Certification. GM World Class Certification
OK here is what happened. THe service Engine light came on and engine waqs starting to run a bit rough. I disconnected the Vacuum Line at the EGR Valve. NO notable difference. However I did notice that if I tried to advance the Throttle quickly the Engine woudl stumble badly and try to stall. If I did a slow steady increase in the Throttle then the Engine only stumbled slightly and was able to keep running.
OK here is what happened. THe service Engine light came on and engine waqs starting to run a bit rough. I disconnected the Vacuum Line at the EGR Valve. NO notable difference. However I did notice that if I tried to advance the Throttle quickly the Engine woudl stumble badly and try to stall. If I did a slow steady increase in the Throttle then the Engine only stumbled slightly and was able to keep running. I accidently clicked on the wrong button. Please continue to assist me
Hi Dave,I am not sure if your still getting these messages. I accidently clicked on the wrong button. I am still in need of your assistance. Please continue to assist meThanks
Yes, I am getting your messages, sorry for the delay. Do you still have the fuel pressure gauge connected? See if the fuel pressure drops when the throttle is opened.Also If you can get your hand back to the egr valve, see if the diaphragm is moving when the throttle is opened.
Yes I still have the Fuel Pressure Guage on. The Pressure drops to 34 psiupon acceleration and then returns to 37 psi
That is your problem. Fuel pressure should actually increase when the throttle is opened. Your fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to keep up with the demand of the engine. You will need to replace the fuel pump.
I see. So you suggest the Fuel Pump rather than the Pressure Regulator?
Yes, When you tested fuel pressure earlier it looks like the fuel pressure regulator is working to regulate the fuel pressure. The regulator will typically not fail and cause a loss of fuel pressure. 99% of the time it is the fuel pump. You can locate the rubber section of the fuel lines and crimp shut the return line (smaller diameter line) and repeat the test. If the fuel pressure increases greatly with the line crimped off then replace the regulator. If the pressure and the symptoms stay the same, replace the fuel pump.
Hi Dave,Well it looks like it tested the way you thought it would. I appreciate your assistance. I will be dropping the Fuel Tank later next week. Thanks again
You are welcome. Thanks for using justanswer.