Hi thanks for the question, I will ask questions also to help us isolate the problem. You said there is no power to the drivers door, what process did you use to determine there was no power, did you check with a test light?
Lastly can you give me your vin # XXXXX want to make sure I get the right information.
Yes- I tested all the wires with test light. I only have power in orange wires. I tested the other door and we have power in 4 wires. the VIN # XXXXX
HI thank you again for the reply, I have uploaded a schematic of the power and grounds to the driver and passenger door module, click HERE for that, you will need the free adobe reader to view it. On the passenger door, do you remember the other 2 wire colors that had power that the drivers door did not? Lastly what is the actual issue we are trying to repair, is everything on the drivers door inoperative? Has any hardware components been replaced, or did this issue just start, thanks.
Can't pull up schematic using "click here. Passenger door wires small orange & large orange have power. The other wires are double light green & double dark green both have power. The orange wires on driver door HAVE power but the other wires that are grey (?) and tan (?) do NOT have power. There are no green wires in driver door.Signal works in the mirror on driver door but the mirror will not move with control. Door locks & Window controls do not work. None ot the hardware components have been replaced. This just started yesterday.
Sorry about the schematic lets try that again, click HERE.
So does the locks and windows work on the passenger side from the passenger switch?
One other thing to try is on the left side of the dash in the fuse block, if you pull the fuse labeled DDM for 30 seconds and reinstall it, does any of the functions come back to the drivers door.
Got the schematic now - Tried the "fuse fix" and it didn't work. Can't operate the passenger locks or windows from the driver side either.
Ok does the windows and locks work from the passenger door switch?
The controls work for the passenger side door only.
You can not control the driver window from the passenger side. The power door lock locks the passenger side only and does not activate driver door lock.
You can also power up your test light on the big orange wire and touch the black wire next to it to verify the ground is good the the module. Lastly do you have access to a multimeter? if you do HERE is connector C2 we are looking at terminal 22 it is a brown wire, we want to make sure there is varying voltage on this wire the max is 7 volts, the min is 0 volts. This is the communication wire and if it is shorted or open will cause malfunctions. If that checks out then it basically has to be a bad drivers door switch. The switch is a dealer item only unless you wanted to get a used one, it may work without programming, but if not it will have to be programmed by the dealer to the truck :( Thoughts?
We;re checking and will let be right back
Checke the brown wire and it read .1 on the voltage meter.
There was power in the orange to black was 12.7 volts
Ok so what we have accomplished then is we have verified the ground circuit because if it would have been open the meter would not have read any voltage. I am ok with the brown wire reading, it is very fast toggling voltage and most meters wont follow the voltage changes. It sounds like a bad drivers door module to me, we have verified everything there is for a module to run. Thoughts?
I read through the programming procedures and if it has the power extending mirrors it will need to be programmed. Sometimes the programming information is a little vague, but if you got a used or new part and it did not work right then, I would say it needs to be programmed.
So you are suggesting replacing the driver controls?
Thanks for the information - will try it and let you know.
Based on the findings of both orange wires having power, the black wire being a good ground, and the communication wire having some voltage on it, I am suggesting the drivers door switch is faulty. The only other possibility is that there is a terminal issue in the connectors not making contact on the power, ground or communication, but where it just stopped one day I do not think that is it. If you do not have any other questions or comments an accept would be appreciated, Thanks.
Your information was extremely helpful - we will replace the controls and let you know the outcome
Ok, you can post back to this question anytime and I will respond. Thanks again.
Hi thanks for the reply, so you powered up one end of the communication wire and then used a test light on the other and it did light the light, is that correct?
The only other things that come to mind is like I mentioned before not enough power, not enough ground or a poor terminal connection at any one of the connection points.
You could load the circuits with a headlight as I mentioned before using either the power to the ddm or the ground to the ddm to see if the powers and grounds are good.
All of the circuits or the 22 (communication) circuit?? I did the #22 terminal all the way back to terminal L.
All of the circuits or the 22 (communication) circuit?? I did the #22 terminal all the way back to terminal L I use a headlight to test this circuit and it is ok (it lit up bright)
I am confused - the dealer stated that the controls are not receiving the program but yet we have power through the "communication" wire. It tested 12.6 on the OHM meter and lit the headlight bulb. Any other ideas or suggestions?
The automatic door locks (when achieving a certain speed) do not lock the driver door either. The passenger side locks but not the driver door. The controls for the mirror on the driver side work but nothing else works. Is there something else that would keep power from reaching some of the circuits but not others??? Any suggestions or ideas???
Hi, in reference to what the dealer said, basically we have verified that the communication wire is good so far.
In order for a module to communicate and be on line, it must also have a good power and ground, the black and 2 orange wires is what I was referring to in testing with the headlight.
If you have good power and ground, then it almost has to be a bad terminal connection somewhere, what I mean by that is, the wiring is good, but the terminals on the end are not making connection, I cannot see the terminals in the connectors, but if everything else checks out, thats all it can be.
Nothing on the drivers door works, because the module is not online, that is what we are trying to isolate, once the module is online, all the stuff will work on the drivers door.
I tested the ground & power - everything tests out good. Got any suggestions where to check next as far as bad connections. . . what wires to check???
Hello again, so to review let me clarify.
You checked 2 orange wires to the black wire with a headlight and the light turned on bright?
On the communication wire you actually powered the wire up and then checked it with the headlight and it turned on bright correct?
The communication wire is very low voltage, that is why I asked if you powered it up, it should not light a headlight unless you powered it up.
How are you connecting to the wires to check them, why I ask is if a test light is pushed in the front of the terminals it will damage and spread them open so as to not make connection on the much small terminals in the connectors.
Lastly you can look at the terminals from the front, or the portion that plugs into the mating terminal and compare the small openings of the female terminals to other terminals that are the same in the connectors, look very closely at the openings they cannot be spread open when compared to the other terminals.
I usually use a small needle so as to not spread terminals, but I would start at the door module terminals.
If any of my clarification questions are not correct, let me know.
Communication wire - I powered up. Which connections to check - wires coming from fuse to DDM?
Cehcked all connectors - no bent wires - everything checks out ok - Any other suggestions or ideas???
Checked all connectors - no bent wires - everything checks out ok - Any other suggestions or ideas???
Thanks again for the reply,
When you said you checked the connectors, did you physically look at the female terminals and compare them to other like terminals to see if they look spread?
Again I cannot see the terminals, so if what you are telling me is the case, then possibly the original door module is bad.
Without a scan tool I am about out of ideas, but the theory for a module to be online and communicate is relatively simple. The only other suggestion is to let the dealership take a stab at it, possibly you fixed the issue in all your wire and terminal checking and the new module may just need to be programmed.
If they say it still will not communicate, then something has been missed and it may be worth having them take a look at it.
according to wiring diagram online for the power window switch - the signal wire comes from the bcm. could this be a possibility? heard its a common problem on newer gm vehicles,
Hi is this the schematic you are looking at?
The BCM does not control the drivers door. Basically the DDM controls everything on the drivers door and then communicates either to the PDM or passenger door module for the functions to be ran on the passenger door and the BCM for functions to be ran on the rear doors if it is a 4 door.
If nothing works from the drivers door and the switches work on all the other doors the problem is back to the drivers door.
Also in support of this is the dealerships inability to program the drivers door module.
We ended up replacing the wiring harness on the door. Your information was helpful.
WOW that was quite the process, in looking over the old harness did you see any suspect areas?