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Are you jacking up on the lower control arm?? it won't reach the upper ball joint if you don't.
Make sure the tripod ( inner joint) has not come out of position .
I do have the lower control arm supported by a jack. I need about 1/2 - 5/8 inch more of inward movement to seat the upper ball joint into the knuckle. Does the torsion bar adj nut need to be loosened? I loosened mine about three turns.
No,( on the torsion bar) if you have it supported by a jack stand ( as far out to the end of the control arm as possible) It should give you the upward movement enough to connect the ball joint. You may need a bar to pry down on the control arm though.
Did the splines of the axle fit tight ? and is the axle going all the way through the wheel bearing?
Are you positive this axle is the same as the old one?
The axle does go through the bearing smooth, I can push it on and pull it out by hand it fits snug but not tight. The axle splines appear NOT even (or flush) with the outer bearing housing when I slide it on but the inward side of the bearing hub it is mating flush with the axle, it appears to me the outer part of the bearing hub, when you look at the axle going into the bearing is about 1/4 inch from being flush with the end of the spline end. Both the original axle and the replacement (New not remanufactured) are 23 1/4 inch.
I have had these be difficult before, but I have always been able to move the spindle around to get it to go in.
Do you have the spindle turned or are you putting it on as if the wheel was straight?
And the axle is going all the way into the axle tube??? I have had the axle shaft in the tube come out, and the washer fall between the axles in the diff tube. This holds the axle out about 1" farther than it should be.
Did the axle shaft come out of the diff tube when you removed the CV axle shaft?
I tried setting the upper ball joint from straight on to turning the knuckle left, (closest position to set the Up BJ) to the right. Yesterday, I went to remove the axle at one time and the shaft did start to come out with the axle, I stopped and pushed the axle and shaft back into the tube, then I tapped along the inner tripod and just removed the axle after that. The shaft stayed in the tube, but even before this happened i was having difficulty trying to get that UPBJ seated.
If you are still having difficulty getting the spindle to go in far enough to line up, the shaft may have come out enough to allow the washer between the shafts to drop down and hold the axle out enough to cause the new cv axle not to go in and allow the spindle to , be installed.
These can be difficult at times, but as much as you have done, I would be taking the right axle tube off to verify the washer is in place.
Have you had one of these axle tubes off before?
I never had one of the axle tubes off before. If I was to take the vehicle to a service center, (short distance from my resodence 2-3 miles) what would you recommend I do to get at least the tire back on so the vehicle could be towed.
It is not difficult to remove the axle tube, Do you want me to talk you through it??
A tow company can tow your vehicle in the condition it is in if needed. But I think you can handle removing the tube and checking this your self. It is up to you.
Ok, I know the tube is flanged. How do you remove it?
The flange on the tube has a plastic cover with the cable attached. remove the three bolts on the plastic cover with the cable.
once it is loose , use a 90 deg hook tool , to reach in and release the retainer clip on the shift fork shaft. ) hook tool needs to be about 1' long and feel on top of the shaft and then on the bottom. The clip is a spring retainer that sticks up slightly, when you push on it the cable will come out.
After you have this removed, then remove the top two bolts, gear oil will come out, remove the two bolts holding the rt side flange to the frame, and remove the axle tube.
There will be a shift fork, sleeve in the fork, a washer that goes between the two axles( this is what you are looking for, it is about the size of a silver dollar. Inspect the center hole for damage, just flatten it back out if it is deformed.
The rt axle has a gear with a retainer in it to hold it on the shaft, and a washer under the gear. the left stub axle has a washer on the backside of the shaft also..
Here is a picture of the duff #10 is the washer you are looking for.
Don't get in a hurry , and you should do just fine.
Let me know if you get stuck
The 90 degree hook tool, is this tool something that can be found at an auto parts store or is this a dealer tool? Is there anything else to be aware of when removing the tube, any alignment marks required?
You can make one out of a coat hanger. You just need something that will reach into the housing to release the clip/
There are no alignment marks needed, the tube will only go on one way.
Getting the shift fork into the duff housing hole is the only thing to be careful of.
I usually use a radiator hose remover tool to release the clip,
Sounds good, will give it a try, the truck down time is cutting into my deer hunting ability. Thanks for the help.
Just let me know, if you need more assistance.