Have you replaced the ignotion module?
the one on the side of the distributor?
that is about the only ignition component that has not yet been replaced, however I did try one from another running vehicle and it did not seem to remedy the problem
DO you have 12 volts to the pink wire at the coil, crank sensor, and at the distributor plugs with them unpluged and the ignition switch on?
pink wire at the coil was just under 12v (11.3v) the plug at distributor was 12.01V crank sensor was 11.87v
DO youhave a fuel pressure tester?
yes I do ....checked that also, actually it was the first thing i checked, actually it has flooded on me twice and I have had to blow out each cylinder, and have replaced plugs each time
Can you hook the pressure tester up and see what the pressure is. Then see how fast the pressure drops.
i can try it...kinda dark out here...it's 9:47pm where I am
same time here
ok well ya never know on here...let me see what i can do..be right back
ok.....lets see...(hope my lap top don't freeze up...23degrees out)...ok...when i turn the key on it spikes to about 66psi
after it primes.....it drops to...about 57psi
now its @56psi..seems to be holding
When you swaped the ignition module out did you replace the whole distributor or just the module?
just the module
Do you have the whole distributor?
i've got a running blazer i can swap it out of and try it
It is posible that the pick up coil is weak.
could be...the original issue when it would still run was random misfire and spitting and sputtering under acceleration...but would smooth out if you feathered the pedal....now it's just a weak spark...would the pick up account for that?
guess it makes sense
yes if the coil is not sending a good signal to the module then it can efect the spark steghth
You will also need to check the ground of the coil to the intake.
Make sure there is no paint on the braket where it meats the intake and the bolts.
the ignition coil?
i noticed when i replaced it that the one that was on there did not have that little ground strap that came with the new one
make sure it is grounded good.
it's been painted....i'll scrape some of the paint off where it makes connection and try that
ok...still doesn't start...but spark looks a little better...maybe this is the line i need to follow
Swap out the distributor and see if it will start
yeah....wont be tonight though i have to go down to the yard to pull it from the blazer...btu i'll let ya know
The best way to do the swap is to line number one plug with the rotor and the cap. then rotat the crank so the star under the rotor lines up
do this on both trucks and set it back in so it lines up again when up put the distributor in
This will keepit in time.
ok...i'll keep that in mind...sure will eliminate the headache
i'll try it in the morning before my wife grabs me for all teh xmas stuff
ok...well first let me say I hope you and yours have a Merry Christmas!
Well that didn't work either...I actually tried both, my sons truck would not start with the transplant and the blazer started right up with the ditributor from the truck!!
nope, actually the other way around, the s10 truck we were working on "still" will not start but the s10 blazer (aka:donor vehicle) started right up with the distributor from the truck! I am still not able to start the truck! I have a flashing "security" light on the dash also, so I thought maybe the spare key was not programmed, so I went throught the learn key procedure, went and had the key checked, my next step is having the ecm programmed/checked, the donor vehicle also has a flashing seurity when trying to start it and it goes out like the rest of the "idiot" lights when the vehicle starts so i don't believe that to be the issue but i'm lost at this point!
short of taking of taking it to a dealer I don't know what to do! I even wnet back through everything i had previously checked...i still have well over 60psi fuel pressure over 170 psi compression on all cylinders, I got fuel, spark, and compression yet it still will not start! the only code i had at the beginning was random misfire and that was cleared and has returned, timing is right on, it's gotta be something electrical it seems to me anyway!
Do you have a noid light? I will post a diagram of the injector plug so you will know what wires to connect the noid light to see if the injectors are getting a pulse to shot fuel into the intake or not.
As for the security light, does it flash faster in your tuck then it does in the donor truck?
I am glade you found all the problems and corrected them. If you need anything more just drop me a line.