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Mike S.
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1996 chevy s10: rebuilt..drove..coil..ignition system or ecm

Customer Question

I have a 1996 chevy s10 4.3 v6 auto vin number x production date 1/96 , it has 188000 miles. I bought it in pieces and got rebuilt heads , put it all together, got it running drove it daily for about 2000 miles and it lost fire. I have changed the ignition module coil crank position and all fuses in dash that would be associated with the ignition system or ecm, and got a used computer. The cap and rotor are new as well as the plugs and wires. The timing marks are lined up the rotor points to the 6 on the distributor and it is still turning. I checked for power at the coil, ign module, and crank sensor and i have 12 volts to all, it turns over very smoothly just don't start. wile it ran it did have like a dead miss every 20 minuets or so, and it had a code p0336. I fixed a couple of bad parts of sum of the wires and replaced the plug to the crank sensor to repair bare wire going into the plug, and on the driver side i couldn't stretch the ground strap all the way to the rear of the head and grounded it to the intake but it was running. The passenger side ground strap i was able to get on the rear of the head. i haven't re stabbed the distributor because it was running good and seamed to be in time, the marks are lining up on the cover and the distributor and is still turning with the motor. Can you give me a any ideas?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Mike S. replied 4 years ago.

Well, since you have voltage to the coil, I would check for spark either at the coil if it is external and accessible or at a spark plug wire. Check also the spark plugs for being gas fouled.

The P0336 code was refering to Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance, so if you replaced the crank sensor and also the harness or plug, did the code go away and also did you clear the code, in other words is that code still present?

Just in case, here is the chilton manual section for that code P0336, including testing and repair, click here.

Also, here is the section for cranks but does not run, click here.

Also, are there any other codes set?

You can make a spark tester as shown here.

graphic

You can make a test plug with a new spark plug and some wire, a mini hose clamp and an alligator clip. First open the spark plug gap to around 0.075” and strip both ends of a 16 gauge wire about 4 foot in length. Attach the mini hose clamp around the threads of the spark plug cause that is a ground and secure it with the mini hose clamp with the bare wire end in between to make a good connection. Next, take the other end of wire and secure to an alligator clip.
Now, you have a test plug. Remove any spark plug boot you want and insert your test plug onto the spark plug wire end you just pulled off and ground the alligator clip. Lay the spark plug in some shade somewhere under that hood and then crank the engine and look for spark. It should crackle with sound and should be blue but red is ok, orange is a little weak. If it can jump that 0.075” gap you should have no problem igniting an engine.
You can also use that to check coils on some vehicles.

For the ignition wiring diagram, click here.

The ECM IGN fuse 10 20A is probably ok since you said you have voltage to coil, so check the ENG fuse 5 20A (hot in run or start).

You may be able to use the tach output white/black wire to check the primary circuit. Hook a 12 volt test light to it and while cranking if everything is ok with the primary circuit the test light should flicker.

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Mike S.
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