Is the problem just the brake light staying on, or are you not getting a good firm brake pedal as well?
Ok, you still have air in the system. This could be due to how much fluid ran out when doing the brake line, or it is sucking air in at either the caliper and brake hose or at the brake line if you just replaced part of the line.
If you replaced part of the line that was bad and not the whole line, did you use union fittings, or compression fittings?
Did you install a copper crush washer between the caliper and the hose, and then one between the hose and the banjo bolt? Did you make sure that there werent the old crush washers still in place?
Some of the 96 models have ABS. You just need to turn the ignition switch to on and look at the dash. There will be an ABS warning symbol on the instrument panel if equipped with ABS.
The warning light is on due to either lack of brake pedal or the float in the master cylinder sticking and not rising to the top of the resevoir.
Yes, you definitely need the other copper washer. You have to really tighten the banjo bolt as the washers are supposed to crush some to get a proper seal. If you look at the caliper and at the hose fitting to the caliper, you will see small ridges in them. the copper washer crushes to form to the ridges to prevent leaks and air from sucking in.
You did good by using union fittings. Compression fittings leak and are also illegal in all states for the use on brake lines.
Dont change the master cylinder yet. You have a known place for the air to get sucked in. Fix that first and re-bleed. if not a good pedal at that point, then you need a master cylinder.
One last thing to make sure. Check the calipers and make sure that the bleeder screws are at the top of the caliper, above where the brake hose bolts to the caliper. If they arent, then they are on opposite sides of where they need to be. Put the left on the right side and the right side on the left side.
you should just need to re-bleed the front brakes. the rears should not need re-bleeding