did it do this before you worked on it?did you break a beader to push the calipers back?can you not get a full pedal?
i think that you still have air in the syatem......make sure the the rear brakes are adjusted all the way against the hub.....if the front brakes are getting hot,if you are not useing the brakes much,,this may be from bad rubber lines[that connect to the caliper]these will calapse on the inside sometimes,makeing them work like a check valve,not letting the brakes release....sometimes these can be hatefull to get the air out of..
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TWO PERSON PROCEDURE
If a pipe is disconnected at one wheel, then only bleed that wheel.If the master cylinder has been removed, bleed the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle. This will reduce the time required to bleed the system.NOTICE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths, suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.MANUAL BLEEDING
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Use a diaphragm-type pressure bleeder. The pressure bleeder must have a rubber diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid. This prevents air, moisture, oil and other contaminants from entering the brake hydraulic system.
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Check the brake pedal for sponginess. Repeat the bleeding procedure if the brake pedal is spongy.