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Super Mechanic
Super Mechanic, Master technician
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 13607
Experience:  29 yrs. exp., ASE master, cert. in G.M. electrical, a/c, susspension, brakes, electronic steering
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95 chevy: The headlights..Z71..quit working..park lights

Customer Question

The headlights in my 95 chevy Z71 half ton quit working. i still have park lights and i replaced the switch. the only fuse i can find is good. both the lights went out at the same time. just shut off as i was going down the road.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

Hello and welcome to Just answer.com, Super mechanic here. About your vehicle.

 

Are you sure that the bulbs are good?

 

Do you know if there is power at the switch?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I am guessing the bulbs are good since they both went out at the same time. and niether the high or low beams work. there is power at the switch all other lights work but headlights. park and dome work fine.
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

I have seen some headlight bulbs blow out at the same time, however, if there are no high beams as well you will want to check for power at the yellow wire at the bottom of the steering column. Then with the headlights on the tan wire. (the 50amp maxi fuse in the under hood fuse box also)

 

 

graphic

 

 

 

graphic

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
the 50 amp maxi fuse is good. the yellow wire that comes out of the switch is good and the tan wire is showing it as the ground wire.
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

That should be grounded through the headlights. Let me locate some more diagrams on it.

 

Does it have fog lights?

 

Daytime running lights?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
No fog or daytime running lights
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

The switch will power the tan wire when the lights are on low and the green wire when on high. There may be a connector problem, (C201) which you will want to check. Here is the diagram and location of the connector. You can test the voltage at the C201 connector as well.

 

 

graphic

 

 

graphic

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok. i used a power prob to check the power to the head lights from the connector by the windshield washer resivor. all the wiring is good from there to the head lights. so its between the switch and that connection some were. any ideas what it could be?
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.
The dimmer switch. You want to see if there is power from the dimmer switch at the steering column.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
is there any diagrams of the dimmer switch u could show me?
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

Just these.

 

graphic

 

 

graphic

 

 

graphic

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok. i will go try.
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

See if there is no power coming out of the dimmer switch to the tan or green wires. That will probably be it, thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
is there a way to take the dimmer switch off without removing the steering wheel?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
the wiring diagram dosent match my dimmer switch.
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

That is for a 95 K1500 without fog lights or DRL. The actual harness conector will have more than the 3 wires in it, (going to the switch. However, here is a test for low and high beams inoperative for one without DRL.

 

 

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?gwzlyymqxmc

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
well there is a black plastic block that has alot of wires that go to it and even more that come out. i follwed the yellow power wire that comes from the switch to that block and then from that block found the ones that go to the dimmer switch. on the blck there is places that got hot and turned black on the block. but folling these wires to the dimmer switch and using my power probe to push 12 volts it turns on my headlights. so the only other thing i can think of is the dimmer switch has gone bad.so without taking it to a shop is there a way to put a new dimmer switch on there without the removal of the steering wheel?
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.

I figured it would be. The instructions do say to remove the steering wheel to replace it, However, I have been able to get them out without taking the wheel off.

 

You take off the steering column covers and the top screw for the switch and then with a torx bit and pair of plyers you might be able to sneek the other screw out, (the one that goes from under the steering wheel) and pull the switch out.

 

 

 

 

EMOVAL
Remove or disconnect the following:

  1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.
  2. Negative battery cable.
  3. Disable the SIR system.
  4. Inflator module.
  5. Tilt wheel lever.
  6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
  7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
  8. Steering wheel nut.
  9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.
  10. Knee bolster.
  11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.
  12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.
  13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.
  14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.
  15. Steering column lock set.
  16. Upper column cover.
  17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.
  18. Retainer CPA and connector from BTSI.
  19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.
  20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.
  21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.
  22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install or connect the following:

  1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.
    • Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.
    • Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.
  1. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
  2. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.
  3. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.
  4. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.
  5. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.
  6. Upper column cover.
  7. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
  8. Knee bolster.
  9. Steering column cylinder lock set.
  10. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .
  11. Lower column cover.
  12. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
  13. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.
  14. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.
  15. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .
  16. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
  17. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
  18. Inflator module.
  19. Tilt wheel lever.
  20. Negative battery cable.
  21. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).

 

Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.
Did you get all that? Please don't forget to hit the accept button, that is the only way we get paid, thanks
Expert:  Super Mechanic replied 5 years ago.
Did you get all that? Please don't forget to hit the accept button, that is the only way we get paid, thanks

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Super Mechanic
Super Mechanic
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29 yrs. exp., ASE master, cert. in G.M. electrical, a/c, susspension, brakes, electronic steering