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Tim's Auto Repair
Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 12984
Experience:  Have owned a repair shop for 25 yrs.
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95 chevy astro: wont start..fuel pump..the fuel line

Resolved Question:

my 95 Customer astro van wont start the fuel pump works and theres spark at all 6 plugs- repaired the pressure line next to the fuel line could the pressure regulator be the cause
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Chevy
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi

does this have the 4.3 vrtec......tell me how it quit.....will it start for a second if you put a little gas down the throttle body/

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
yes its a 4.3 vortec - the first time i was driving along about 30 - 40 mph and it just stalled sudddenly after sitting for awhile and after several attempts i was able to start the engine and procede-when accelerating the engine hesitated and slightly backfire,when I would fully accelerate it ran good for about 20 min before eventually stalling out totally.this all happened in below zero temps since then ive checked the fuel pump,installed a new fuel filter and verified that each plug has spark. ive sprayed small amounts of starting fluid into the throttle body and itll fire briefly. ive tried holding the foot pedal to the floor while turning over the engine (thinking it might be flooded and also tryed pumping the foot pedal (thinking that it may not be getting any gas)- after not startng i took a spark plug out to see if had gas on the electrode and no it did not-also what is the firing order and spark plug gap
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

ok..sorry i keep missing you.

you need to re check the fuel presure..this thing must have no less then 58psi..check it while turning the engine,sinse the starter will pull amps the presure mat drop below 58.so you will need a fuel pump

the fireing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 clock wise...i would think you need a fuel pump

thanks

Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 12984
Experience: Have owned a repair shop for 25 yrs.
Tim's Auto Repair and 7 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello again- well i replaced the fuel pump/filter and theres still the same problem: it started after pouring a small amount of gasoline into the throttle body - the engine didnt want to idle right so i stepped on the accelerator then it ran good at higher rpms - i let it reach normal opperating temp before tryed to let it idle then it sputtered,backfired slightly and died out - when i tryed restarting the engine it would sputter and almost start- after puoring some more gas into the throttle body it would run again at high rpms then stall out as before - it did start one time after cooling down for about a half an hour without pouring gas into the throttle body then died again   - it acts like its starving for gas - i have not checked the fuel pressure - could you tell me the easiest way to do that - i thought for sure the pump would do it - what else could it be?    
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

to test the presure yo u will need a fuel presure tester..it screws on the inlet line..you may need a map sensor....if you have any codes i,d be glad to help you further...also you may want to remove and clean the egr valve

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello there my van still isnt running right. i cleaned the egr valve although it wasnt very dirty the engine used to run better at higher rpms now it idles better and wont run at high rpms i didnt install a new fuel filter after changing the pump so thats the next thing   do you have any other suggestions?
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

ok

yes..lets get the filter changed..and we will see waht happens there

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello the fuel filter was changed and = i have to pour small amounts of gas into the throttle body, to get the engine to fire at all it sputters a little but will not continue to run - what would you recommend that i do next (theres 235,000 miles on the engine)   
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

ok

i think that you may need to replace the fuel pump

thanks

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello there heres the current symptoms with my van: itll start and idle fine for around 10 min then suddenly kill- it wont start again for about 6 hours,it will run again for 10 min then die. you know i have allready replaced the fuel pump and filter and cleaned the egr valve can you tell me some other things to check or tests to perform that may give some indication to what the problem is       
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi again

this symptom sounds like a crank posisition sensor..it is located next to the harmonic balencer,,,these will have this affect when they go bad

 

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
howdy can you tell me where the crank position sensor is located thanks Chev
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

it is located next to the harmonic balancer

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello there i have not checked the crank position sensor yet. ill take the air filter/throttle body intake off one day and look into that further,i guess theres a cam positon sensor also isnt there it sounds like those sensors are located on the front of the engine,ill look into that soon, but first i want to tell you about the fuel pressure situation-when i releive the pressure from the valve on the back of the engine very little gas sprays out in fact it doesnt spray out at all- theres very little pressure. it seems to me if there was 58 lbs press. the gas would actually spray wouldnt it? please let me know what you think about that.       Thanks Chev
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

yes

it should squirt out a stream with force

thanks

Tim's Auto Repair, mechanic
Category: Chevy
Satisfied Customers: 12984
Experience: Have owned a repair shop for 25 yrs.
Tim's Auto Repair and 7 other Chevy Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello there, well my van had been starting and would stay running(idling)for about 10 min then just die and it wouldnt start again for at least 6 hrs. now it wont start (it will just run slightly if i pour a small amount of gas into the throttle body) if the crank position sensor was bad would it do this ?       Thanks Customer
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

yes

the injectors will not open to give it fuel..because the computer dosent know the engine is turning,,because of a bad crank sensor

thanks

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello there the parts stores dont show a crank sensor for this vehicle . you had said its near the harmonic balancer, but can you tell me exactly where to find it:like upper front or lower back.this is a 1995 chevy 4.3 vortec which has a distributor   thanks Customer
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi

i have been sitting here reading our conversation....to me...it still looks like your fuel pump is weak..please check the presure and tell me what you have...this thing must have at least 58psi at all times...the 95 does not have the crank sensor ,the 96 does,sorry...check the fuel presure even if it does have a new pump in it,,,we need to know what it has

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello, i finally had the fuel pressure checked the other day. it was 58 when ideling and went up to around 70 when the engine was excellerated,ive also been checking the compression , so far 2 cylinders have 160 and 1 cylinder has a different reading each time i take it. the 1st time it read 170 then 160 and also 185. the other 3 are tougher to get at. there must be something else going on with that engine   thanks Customer          
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

ok

y3es you have plenty of fuel...those 3 cylinders are good...check the other 3....the spider may be bad itself

thanks

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hello how are things today? a couple months ago i took the fuel tank off of my van and cleaned it out,changed the strainer and fuel filter, started it and drove around some and then it stalled again after less than 10 miles. Yesterday i put a battery back in it and i was surprised that it started right up-it would run and drive at low speeds. when i tryed to accelerate the engine would sputter and almost quit,then finally did quit.i was able to get it started by spraying starting fluid into the throttle body after repeating that several times i managed to get it back and park it in front of my house. Today i cleaned the EGR valve again and checked the valve thats on the top of the trottle body. That valve seems to be stuck, the engine did start with that being disconnected(i left it plugged in but unscrewed so it just dangled in the hole on the side of the body)the engine started with things like that but the air pulling the plunger into the side of the throttle body. Then i put it all back together and started the engine-things now seem to be just as they were in the beginning.The engine will run at higher Rpms but wont idle without stalling. I also was looking back through our discussions-and think the valve on the throttle body may is causing at least some of the problem.Do you know what that part is called?I had the spider injectors replaced at a Chevy dealership about 100,000 miles ago,so they may not be bad. Please let me know what you think. Thanks Customer           
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi

i think you are talking about the iac valve...to me it still souds like your fuel pump is weak...neds to be 60psi

thanks

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacement

 

Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

 

  1. Remove the electrical connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve

 


 

  1. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws. CAUTION : If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
  2. Remove the IAC valve assembly.
  3. Remove the O-ring.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE

  1. Clean the IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, pintle valve seat, and air passage.
    • Use the carburetor cleaner and a parts cleaning brush in order to remove carbon deposits. Follow instructions on the container.
    • Do not use a cleaner that contains methyl ethyl ketone, an extremely strong solvent and not necessary for this type of deposit.
    • Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal. They do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle shaft.
    • If air passage has heavy deposits, remove the throttle body for complete cleaning.
  1. Inspect the IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace if damaged. NOTE : If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The IAC valve pintle shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.
  2. Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28 mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.

 


MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE

NOTE : If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The AC valve pintle shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.

Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28 mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

 

  1. Lubricate the IAC valve O-ring with clean engine oil.
  1. Install the IAC valve assembly.
  2. Install the attaching screws. Tighten
    • Tighten the IAC valve attaching screws to 3.0 Nm (26 lb. in.) .
  1. Install the electrical connector.
  2. Reset the IAC valve pintle position.
5.1.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds.
5.2.Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
5.3.Start the engine.
5.4.Check for the proper idle operation.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset Procedure
  1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds.
  2. Turn the ignition switchto the OFF position for 10 seconds.
  3. Start the engine.
  4. Check for the proper idle operation.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello how are things today? well I cant seem to give up on my van. I had told you the other day that a knock had become detectable while the thing is idling,but after listening to the sound again,Im thinking maybe its more of a misfire.Ive changed all of the plugs and have since checked them all again for spark,as well as inspecting the wires.Ill listen to it some more and see if anything changes,if you had any ideas Id be glad to here about it. Thanks Customer       
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi

there is really no good way to inspect the wires,these can be bad even if they look well..if they have not been changed in a while,and you think you have a miss,,it may be a good idea to replace them

thanks

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello again,today the van wouldnt start at all just sputtered a few times so i took a couple of the plugs out and rechecked them for spark.had some good spark but then it became weaker and finally not there at all.After checking and rechecking-one that had no spark,did have some the next time,but it became weaker and weaker,then not at all once again.Do you think this sounds like the ignition module?     Thanks Chev
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

hi

yes,if you are sure you have a new rotor and distributer cap...it may be the ignition module..auto zone and most parts stores can test these if you take it off and take it to them,,also you may want to check the coil

thanks

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Testing and Inspection

 



IGNITION COIL TEST

 

  • Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
  1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the ignition coil. CAUTION : Do not Insert the J 39200 probe into the ignition coil connectors. The female terminals could be spread and deformed, resulting In intermittent operation of the coil. Be sure to make contact with only the front edge of the terminals.
  2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 1. Use the high scale. The reading should be infinite. If not, replace the coil.
  3. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 2. Use the low scale. The reading should be 0.2 - 0.5 ohms. If not, replace the coil.
  4. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 3. Use the high scale. The meter should read 5k - 25k ohms. If not, replace the coil.
  5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
hello-well today i put a new module,rotor,and distributor cap on-the engine started and ran a little rough but didnt hesitate when accelerated then when i let it idle down the engine stalled and will not start-after it cools awhile itll probably start again.   
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

ok

it is very posable for thepick-up coil to be bad[this is inside the distributer

thanks

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i checked the wires in the dark while turning the engine,found spark showing outside of at least 1 wire and also around the ignition coil! im guessing thats a vast majority of the problem- ill find out tommorrow    Thanks Chev
Expert:  Tim's Auto Repair replied 5 years ago.

good

i hope this gets it

thaks for useing justanswer

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