Hello and welcome to Just Answer,
This happens quite often when a battery is replaced on newer vehicles with PAL type fuses.
Check fuse 42 PWR/WINDOW 30 A in the underhood fuse block for an Open, these are hard to tell if blown and must be inspected visually through the little window on the top. This fuse powers the door module and will disable both locks and window if blown.
Also check Fuse 21 Door Lock.
Let me know the results
Does the vehicle crank and run?
Are the window and doors locks the only thing not working?
Lets check one more fuse TBC 10 A in the under hood fuse block.
Can you remove fuse 42 and turn the key to the "run" position and then test for voltage in the fuse block cavity terminals for fuse 42 one should have source voltage.
Let me know the results.
Sorry for the delay had to put some info together for you.
The fuse is powered up correctly "receives it's power from the RAP relay"
We need to make sure the voltage is getting to the Door module from the fuse.
You might try swapping the fuse 42 with another just to make sure before you take the next step.
You up to removing the Door switch assy? It is just a couple of screws.
There will be a couple of connectors on the switch, the one we need to test is the one that looks like the Connecter ID above. Test for voltage on the orange wire and the yellow wire, with the vehicle on.
Just to clarify,
The neg lead on the meter attached to a good ground, red lead on meter to pin 1 key on, no power?
The neg lead on the meter attached to a good ground, red lead on meter to pin 6 key on, no power?
Well we have power getting to the switch were needed.
Next step is to check the ground.
Neg lead to Pin 3 on the same connector and pos lead to pin 1.
No voltage reading = bad ground.
Voltage reading would indicate a bad switch.
It is possible the switch could have been damaged upon battery replacement.
Was the Ignition switch off when changing the battery?
The door lock fuse is powered hot at all times and perhaps a voltage spike has taken the switch out.