OK, the problem may still be in that system. It is common for the wires running from the lock cylinder down the column to break or detach from the cylinder. Also if you know where the resistor is installed you may want to double check the integrity of the connections there. Even though the chipped key is not used-the lock cylinder may or may not be wired. You can get aftermarket lock cylinders that do not have the VATS wires, or a VATS cylinder can have a plain key used in it with a resitor installed.
The reason I suspect the VATS system is that that car has a fuel pump relay bypass built into the oil pressure sending unit. If the fuel pump relay fails to turn on, the oil sender will send signal to the pump when oil pressure is built up from cranking. The problem could be also in the electrical part of the ignition switch, if it is worn out it may not be supplying voltage regardless of the VATS status.
Do you know how to check for codes by jumping the ALDL connector under the dash. Or can you have codes read? I can tell you how to jump the connector and count the flashes if you need, that would possibly narrow down wether or not it is a theft-deterrent issue.
Let me know if you need the code flashing procedure, check for a thin orange and white wire coming out the column into a plug just under the dash above the pedals to determine the lock cylinder type, and if you know where the resistor is check continuity across it.
Then we can proceed from there with additional circuit testing if needed.
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