This is in 2 parts, read through it before you start. It will have some info that will not apply to your truck, just ignore those parts. It should have everything you need. Thanks
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION2-Wheel Drive
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Fig. 1: Transmission to bellhousing mounting, manual transmissions
Fig. 2: Transfer case mounting, 205 series
Fig. 3: Transfer case mounting, 208 series
3-SPEED AND 4-SPEED
Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
Drain the transmission.
Disconnect the speedometer cable, and back-up lamp wire at transmission.
Disconnect the shift control lever or shift control from the transmission. On 4-speeds transmissions, remove the gearshift lever by pressing down firmly on the slotted collar plate with a pair of channel lock pliers and rotating counterclockwise. Plug the opening to keep out dirt.
Remove the driveshaft after marking the position of the shaft to the flange.
Position a transmission jack or its equivalent under the transmission to support it.
Remove the crossmember. Visually inspect to see if other equipment, brackets or lines, must be removed to permit removal of transmission.
Mark position of crossmember when removing to prevent incorrect installation. The tapered surface should face the rear.
Remove the flywheel housing underpan.
Remove the top two transmission to housing bolts and insert two guide pins.
The use of guide pins will help support the transmission and also prevent damage to the clutch disc. Guide pins can be made by taking two bolts, the same as those just removed only longer, and cutting off the heads. Cut a slot in the head so the bolt can be turned with a screwdriver. Be sure to support the clutch release bearing and support assembly during removal of the transmission. This will prevent the release bearing from falling out of the flywheel housing.
Remove two remaining bolts and slide transmission straight back from engine. Use care to keep the transmission drive gear straight in line with clutch disc hub.
Remove the transmission from beneath your vehicle.
Install the transmission into the vehicle, using care when guiding assembly over the guide pins. Install a few mounting bolts to hold transmission in position. If you have a problem installing the transmission into position, place the transmission in gear and rotate transmission flange or output yoke to aid entry of main drive gear into disc's splines. Make sure the clutch release bearing is in position.
Install the remaining mounting bolts. Remember to remove the guide pins and install the appropriate mounting bolts. Once all the mounting bolts are installed, torque the bolts to 75 ft. lbs.
Install the remaining components by reversing the removal procedures listed above.
Jack up the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Remove the skid plate, if so equipped.
Drain the transmission and transfer case. Remove the speedometer cable and the TCS switch, if so equipped, from the side of the transmission.
Disconnect the driveshafts and secure them out of the way.
Remove the shifter lever by removing the pivot bolt to the adapter assembly. You can then push the shifter up out of the way.
Remove the bolts attaching the strut to the right side of the transfer case and the rear of the engine, and remove the strut.
While supporting the transfer case, remove the attaching bolts to the adapter.
Remove the transfer case securing bolts from the frame and lower and remove the transfer case. (The case is attached to the right side of the frame).
Disconnect the shift rods from the transmission.
While holding the rear of the engine with a jack, remove the adapter mounting bolts.
Remove the upper transmission bolts and insert two guide pins to keep the assembly aligned. See the two wheel drive procedure for details on making these.
Remove the flywheel pan and the lower transmission bolts.
Pull the transmission and the adapter straight back on the guide pins until the input shaft is free of the clutch disc.
The transmission and the adapter are removed as an assembly. The adapter can be separated once the assembly is out.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. When installing transmission, it may be necessary to place the transmission in gear and turn the output shaft to help align the clutch splines. Install and tighten the transmission mounting bolts to 75 ft. lbs. See Transfer Case installation for adapter bolt torques.
Remove the shifter boots and retainers.
Remove the transmission shift lever. See the two wheel drive procedure for details on removing the lever.
It may be necessary to remove the center floor outlet from the heater to complete the next step. Remove the center console, if so equipped.
Remove the transmission cover after releasing the attaching screws. It will be necessary to rotate the cover 90 degrees to clear the transfer case shift lever.
Disconnect the transfer case shift lever link assembly and the lever from the adapter. Remove the skid plate, if any.
Remove the back-up light, the TCS switch, and the speedometer cable from the transmission.
Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Support the engine. Drain the transmission and the transfer case. Detach both driveshafts and secure them out of the way.
Remove the transmission-to-frame bolts. To do this, it will be necessary to open the locking tabs. Remove the transfer case-to-frame bracket bolts.
While supporting the transmission and transfer case, remove the crossmember bolts and the crossmember. It will be necessary to rotate the crossmember to remove it from the frame.
Remove the lower clutch housing cover.
On V8 engines it is necessary to remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Remove the transmission-to-clutch housing bolts. Remove the upper bolts first and install guide pins. See the two wheel drive procedure for details.
Slide the transmission back until the input shaft clears the clutch assembly and then lower the unit.
The transfer case and transmission is installed as an assembly. Put the transmission in gear and turn the output shaft to align the clutch splines. Install the transmission mounting bolts and torque them to 75 ft. lbs.
Sorry, not much in the way of pictures, just be sure the flat side of the disc goes to the fly wheel. If the fly wheel has hot spots or chatter marks on it, have it surfaced, don't want it to slip later. If you have a problem just drop me a note.
Fig. 1: Lubrication points of the throwout bearing
Before removing the bellhousing the engine must be supported. This can be done by placing a hydraulic jack, with a board on top, under the oil pan.
Remove the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch fork pushrod and spring. Remove the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch fork by pressing it away from the ball mounting with a screwdriver until the fork snaps loose from the ball or remove the ball stud from the clutch housing. Remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fork.
Install a pilot tool (an old mainshaft makes a good pilot tool) to hold the clutch while you are removing it.
Before removing the clutch from the flywheel, mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug, so that these parts may be assembled in their same relative positions. They were balanced as an assembly.
Loosen the clutch attaching bolts one turn at a time to prevent distortion of the clutch cover until the tension is released.
Remove the clutch pilot tool and the clutch from the vehicle.
Check the pressure plate and flywheel for signs of wear, scoring, overheating, etc. If the clutch plate, flywheel, or pressure plate is oil-soaked, inspect the engine rear main seal and the transmission input shaft seal, and correct leakage as required. Replace any damaged parts.
Install the pressure plate in the cover assembly, aligning the notch in the pressure plate with the notch in the cover flange. Install pressure plate retracting springs, lockwashers and drive strap to pressure plate bolts. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. The clutch is now ready to be installed.
Turn the flywheel until the X mark is at the bottom.
Install the clutch disc, pressure plate and cover, using an old mainshaft as an aligning tool.
Turn the clutch until the X mark or painted white letter on the clutch cover aligns with the X mark on the flywheel.
Install the attaching bolts and tighten them a little at a time in a crossing pattern until the spring pressure is taken up.
Remove the aligning tool.
Pack the clutch ball fork seat with a small amount of high temperature grease and install a new retainer in the groove of the clutch fork.
Install the retainer with the high side up and with the open end on the horizontal.
If the clutch fork ball was removed, reinstall it in the clutch housing and snap the clutch fork onto the ball.
Lubricate the inside of the throwout bearing collar and the throwout fork groove with a small amount of graphite grease.
Install the throwout bearing. Install the clutch housing.
Install the transmission.
Further installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust the clutch.
Coil Spring Clutch
Basically, the same procedures apply to diaphragm clutch removal as to coil spring clutch removal.
Before removing the clutch, punch-mark the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug so that the components can be reassembled in their original locations.
Loosen the attaching screws one turn at a time to prevent distortion.
When the clutch plate is removed, be sure to mark the flywheel side.
Place 3/8 in. wood or metal spacers between the clutch levers and the cover to hold the levers down as the holding screws are removed.