This is not a very fun job, mostly because everything is greasy when the lines have been leaking and the lines are a tight fit and somewhat difficult to remove due to the tight clearance. It is possible to get them out with a little patience and wiggling though!
Here is the replacement procedure:
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The best way to reach the bolt at the engien mount is to use a flex socket on a long extension (I use a 24 inch extension for this job).
Universal sockets look like this:
Theoretically, it is possible to remove teh line assembly without unbolting the engine mount, but after fighting with a few of these in our shop, we usually do end up loosening the left side engien mount and jacking up the engine slightly to provide clearance. According to GM though, this is not necessary.
If I remember correctly, the lines on most of these vehicles (things do change in the design from year to year) are not bolted to the engine mount, but are attached to the engine block forward of the left mount with a small metal clamp. If you follow the lines, you can easily see any clamps attaching them to the engine; there is nothing hidden that any of us are aware of.
As I mentioned, this is a rather difficult unpleasant job requiring working in tight uncomfortable positions. There really are no secrets; it is a pretty straightforward repair process. As I read through the answer I have provided, I do not see anything missing; all the information you need to complete this job is here. If you get stuck during the process, let me know and I can try to help.
Something you may want to consider is resealing the oil filter adapter that the lines connect to at the engine block. There is a small gasket and an O-ring in between the aluminum adapter and the block that usually start to leak around the same age as the lines do. The parts cost around $2 at any Gm dealer parts department (they are not available at any parts stores that I am aware of). If youa re taking the lines off, it only takes a couple extra minutes to reseal the adapter so that you dont have to go through this unpleasant process again later...
(1) If you need to raise the engine, place the floor jack directly under the oil pan, and place a block of wood in between the jack and the pan to prevent damage to the oil pan. If you should need to raise the engine, it will only require an inch or so for additional clearance to be able to pull the line out. Be careful not to raise the engine far enough to allow the fan to contact the radiator shroud, or it could result in breaking the plastic radiator shroud. As I mentioned previously, according to the manufacturer's service procedure it should not be a requirement that the engine be raised, but in practice we have found it is sometimes helpful and makes the job a little easier.
(2) I do not have any diagram showing the engine mount, but you cannot miss it; it connects the engine to the frame rail and is just in front of where the lines atach to the engine. It is a very large block of metal and rubber right where you are trying to work... if you take a look under there, you cannot help but see it.
(3) I cannot tell you the exact size of the bolt holding the lines to the engine; service manuals never go into that much detail... you will need to look at the bolt to see what exact size it is. Bolt head sizes also tend to vary from one model year to the next, depending on what supplier the manufacturer chose to use that year I assume. The last one I took apart a few months ago was a 10mm head, if I remember right.
You do not necessarily need to purchase a universal socket set to do the job, I mentioned it only because you asked for specific advice on how to make teh job easier. It is not a requirement to be able to complete the repar, just a tip to save some time and frustration.
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If you remove the large bolt that runs horizontally through the center of the mount, it will then be possible to jack up the engine slightly to obtain the additional clearance you need to get the line out. I have located an illustration showing this bolt on the passenger side, the driver's side mount is similiar...