HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

Fig. 7: Location of the hydraulic clutch bleed screw

Fig. 8: Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder using a box-end wrench

Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.

1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. Check manufactures recommendations for each vehicle.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle high enough to work comfortable under it.

3. Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder.

4. Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal.

5. Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system. Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder.

   Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.

   1. Lower the vehicle and test clutch operation.

   2. If the previous steps do not result in satisfactory pedal feel, remove the reservoir cap and pump the clutch pedal very fast for 30 seconds. Stop to let the air escape, then repeat the procedure as necessary to purge all remaining air.

   3. Check the master cylinder fluid level and replenish as necessary.

HiCustomer I am going to offer what I can here in hopes of helping your situation. As you know by now, these systems can be a real pain in the behind to get the air out of. I understand that you only replaced the line from the master to the slave, but it might be a good idea to take the line loose at the master cylinder and watch while someone pushed the clutch down to see if you are getting a good stream of fluid with pressure at the fitting out of the master cylinder itself. Some times moving the fluid around inside them will cause a seal to let go or sludge or dirt to plug a passage and then nothing works, but you need to have pressure from the master or the slave will never bleed. If the master is working good, then the only other things I can offer are either the use of a vacuum bleeder, which is the best way to get all the air out, but requires the use of a compressor to make the vacuum bleeder work. Most larger repair shops have them and they work the best of any way I can think of. What I have done in the past that also works pretty well, is to reverse bleed the system. That could be hard, if the slave does not have a bleeder valve on it, but if you can get a piece of hose to fit tight up against the bleeder hole, it might work. I have a one gallon can with a push, pull pump in it that we use to fill master cylinders etc. If you can get a good tight fit with the hose up against the bleeder on the slave, remove the cap on the master and just pump the fluid through the system backwards until there are no more air bubble come up into the master cylinder. No matter how you do it, these units are a pain. Some years were so bad that GM would not even sell the parts separately, you had to buy them as a unit which included the slave, master and the pipe already filled with fluid. If you have a way to get it to someone who has a vacuum bleeder, it may save you time, money and a lot of head aches to have it done that way. I wish you luck with it and if either Lurch or I can be of further help, just yell. If you accept, please accept the previous answer from Lurch. ThanksBob39197.727212963

HiCustomer Please drop us a note and let us know how you make out. We want it fixed for you almost as bad as you do. I can sure understand the frustration, those things when they are at their best are still a real pain.Good luck with it and thanks for using JA.