How do I bleed the clutch slave cylinder for the clutch on a 1995 gmc sonoma?
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
Fig. 7: Location of the hydraulic clutch bleed screw
Fig. 8: Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder using a box-end wrench
Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.
Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. Check manufactures recommendations for each vehicle.
Raise and safely support the vehicle high enough to work comfortable under it.
Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder.
Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal.
Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system. Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder.
Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.
Lower the vehicle and test clutch operation.
If the previous steps do not result in satisfactory pedal feel, remove the reservoir cap and pump the clutch pedal very fast for 30 seconds. Stop to let the air escape, then repeat the procedure as necessary to purge all remaining air.
Check the master cylinder fluid level and replenish as necessary.
Reply to Lurch's Post: My slace clutch cyl. isn't inside the bell housing, it's outside and towards the front. There.s no place to put a hose on the bleeder port because it only has a small hole in a tit with an allen wrench valve on the top (of the tit)
Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to Dot 3 specifications.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the slave cylinder retainers.
Hold slave cylinder at approximately 45° so the bleeder screw is located at the highest point. Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw.
Chevrolet Cert., Heavy Line Mech, Race Shop Owner, Mobile Electronics.
Relist: I still need help.
Held Sl;ave cul. at 45 degree and blead "many" times. I still can't get the clutch to work. The rod in slave cul. moves when my assistant pumps after a bleed BUR when I re-install (done this 3 times) no clutch. This is so frustrating. Any more suggestions?
Why are you Bleeding the Slave Cylinder?Did you replace the Clutch or Master Cylinder?Do you get any Pressure on the Slave when it is hooked up?
I'm bleeding the slave cylinder because I don't get pressure on clutch peddle and therefore can't get trans. in gear (grinding) I only replaced the hydraulic line from master cyl. to slave cyl. because it rusted on the lower part and thus lost clutch. I took slave cyl. off from bell housing.held it at 45 degrees and bled it as you said earlier. I can feel the slave cyl. rod moving slightly in my hand. Once the slave cyl. is again installed, the clutch is still not working.
Need to be sure you are getting pressure to the Slave.When you Bleed Slave, is the Fluid Trickling out or does it shoot out?
HiCustomer I am going to offer what I can here in hopes of helping your situation. As you know by now, these systems can be a real pain in the behind to get the air out of. I understand that you only replaced the line from the master to the slave, but it might be a good idea to take the line loose at the master cylinder and watch while someone pushed the clutch down to see if you are getting a good stream of fluid with pressure at the fitting out of the master cylinder itself. Some times moving the fluid around inside them will cause a seal to let go or sludge or dirt to plug a passage and then nothing works, but you need to have pressure from the master or the slave will never bleed. If the master is working good, then the only other things I can offer are either the use of a vacuum bleeder, which is the best way to get all the air out, but requires the use of a compressor to make the vacuum bleeder work. Most larger repair shops have them and they work the best of any way I can think of. What I have done in the past that also works pretty well, is to reverse bleed the system. That could be hard, if the slave does not have a bleeder valve on it, but if you can get a piece of hose to fit tight up against the bleeder hole, it might work. I have a one gallon can with a push, pull pump in it that we use to fill master cylinders etc. If you can get a good tight fit with the hose up against the bleeder on the slave, remove the cap on the master and just pump the fluid through the system backwards until there are no more air bubble come up into the master cylinder. No matter how you do it, these units are a pain. Some years were so bad that GM would not even sell the parts separately, you had to buy them as a unit which included the slave, master and the pipe already filled with fluid. If you have a way to get it to someone who has a vacuum bleeder, it may save you time, money and a lot of head aches to have it done that way. I wish you luck with it and if either Lurch or I can be of further help, just yell. If you accept, please accept the previous answer from Lurch. ThanksBob39197.727212963
Thanks for your time. I guess I will buy a new mastercyl. and go from there. GM sure sucks in cases like this!I WILL give LURCH the credit for this as you said.
Thanks for the info.
Bill no need to reply
HiCustomer Please drop us a note and let us know how you make out. We want it fixed for you almost as bad as you do. I can sure understand the frustration, those things when they are at their best are still a real pain.Good luck with it and thanks for using JA.