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Juan Crespo
Juan Crespo, Tech Trainer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 1513
Experience:  A.S.E. Master Technician, Advanced Level, Emissions - Asian, Domestic, & European
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I have a 1994 Toyota 4runner. I'm pulling two trouble codes.

Customer Question

Hi I have a 1994 Toyota 4runner. I'm pulling two trouble codes. 14 and 42. My speedo and odo are non functional right now. Also I have a misfire not sure which cylinders I haven't got that far into investigating this yet.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.

42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal. This is usually repaired by replacing the VSS. Trace the wiring from the VSS connector on the transmission first to be sure it does not have a short or wires touching anywhere.

14 Ignition signal. That will be what is causing the misfire. You will need a multi-meter to check your wiring harness, check the neg. terminal from the coil to the ecu, also check for loose, frayed wires.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK I'll go and check on that and come back when I'm done checking. I was wondering if maybe the coil or igniter might be bad as well or even the distributor. But yeah I'll check on the wiring first.
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.

If the wiring is good and the coil checks okay, then the most likely cause will be the distributor.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
My wiring looks good. How can I check the coil? With a voltmeter?
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.

Here is a test procedure found online...

The Ignition system on this engine uses a Distributor with three
Pick-up Coils inside and an external Igniter andCoil. The ECM uses the
signals generated by the three Pick-ups to control the Igniter, which
controls the negative side of the Coil for spark. The Igniter also sends a
signal back to the ECM for injector pulse.

The Test: The first place to start is to check the Pick-ups inside the
Distributor. If any of them are defective, nothing else is going to work,
not even the tap-test we're going to do later. The first step is to test
resistance on each of the three Pick-ups. You'll want to check them with
the harness unplugged from the Distributor. Identify the terminals on the
Distributor connector using the wire colors on the harness side.

Terminal-1: White..NE signal
Terminal-2: Red..G1 signal
Terminal-3: Black..G2 signal
Terminal-4: Green..G- signal

Between G- and G1, it should be 125 & 200ohms. Between G- and G2, it
should also be 125 to 200 ohms. Between G- and NE, it should 155 to 250
ohms. All of these resistance specs are at ambient temperature. If checked
on a hot engine, the tolerances go up about 30 ohms. If any one Pick-up
fails the test, it needs to be replaced before any further testing. If all
three Pick-ups pass, we need to do a "tap-test" at the Igniter. Make sure
the connector is plugged back in at the Distributor. Go to the Igniter,
which should be mounted at the Coil. On theIgniter connector, locate the
Black/Blue wire and probe into it with a test-light. With the key on, tap
the alligator clip of the test-light on battery negative and watch for
spark out of the Coil. If you get no response, try tapping the alligator
clip on battery positive, again watching for spark out of the Coil. If
there's no spark in either case, check for battery voltage at the positive
side of the Coil. If that's okay, attach a second test-light from ground to
the negative side of the Coil and redo the tap-test at the Igniter. If the
test-light on Coil negative flashes during the tap-test, and you had
voltage on the positive side, you have a bad Coil. If the second test-light
did not flash on Coil negative, we need to check the remaining wires at the
Igniter. Make sure you have battery voltage on the Black/Red wire at the
Igniter with the key on. If that's okay, make sure you have continuity on
the Black/White wire between the Igniterconnector and the negative side of
the Coil. Make sure the Igniter itself is grounded properly to its mounting
surface on the truck, no rust or corrosion. The last check will be to make
sure the Black wire does not show full continuity to ground. This wire goes
to the Tachometer, and if grounded somewhere in the harness, will keep the
Igniter from working. If all of these things pass inspection, chances are
good you have a defective Igniter. Be sure you check resistance on the Coil
to be sure we don't damage a new Igniter. The primary side should be 0.4 to
0.6 ohms. Secondary should be 10,200 to 13,800 ohms.

The Fix: Replace the defective parts determined by the above testing. Don't
forget, if you do end up replacing the Igniter, double check Coil
resistance to avoid damaging a new Igniter.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'm not too clear on how I can check the coil is it just the two pins on the coil itself? When I touch pin to pin on the coil I get .7ohms and the distributor checks out too. I'm thinking it might be the igniter it runs OK on start up and once the vehicle comes up to Op temp it starts to spit and sputter. Is that a common symptom of the igniter going out or do they just die all at once?
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.

Okay, that Iis the correct reading for the negative side. I will get you some more info on the igniter.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Any more info? I'd hate to replace a part I don't need to I know in the past my timing belt jumped a tooth could and was running poorly but I feel like this time may be different. I know the distributor resistance checks out but how much play can you expect in the shaft? Also just to double check the coil resistance should be at .7 ohms correct?
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.

I am sorry, ran out of ideas on this. I will open the question and let the other experts take a look at it. Thank you for your patience.

Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

Hi there. Different expert here.

Do you still need help with this issue?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
sir. I have a friend who has a igniter I can swap in to test but any info is helpful. I'd like to know what to look for when checking my distributor and coil as well. Pulling trouble codes 14 and 42.
Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

First thing we need to check is the signal from the ECU to the ignitor. Does the tachometer show RPM while the engine is being cranked by the starter?

Expert:  Juan Crespo replied 1 year ago.

Need to step out. I'll be back tonight to check on your progress.

Best Regards.