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P1153 - HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1133 - HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected
P0152 - HO2S Circuit HIGH Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient Detected
- There are only 2 parts that could cause off all these codes, and the rough running issue you described. A faulty PCM is always a possibility, but is uncommon, and would be the last resort. More common is the mass air flow sensor. Even though you don't have any actual mass air flow sensor codes, does not mean it is functioning properly. The codes would only indicate electrical circuit faults, but if the sensor is not reading correct, it may not give any such codes. Or, it could just be contaminated and IS functioning properly, but is giving the PCM false readings. I would start by cleaning the mass air flow sensor. You must use proper cleaner to do this as this part is very sensitive. Do NOT use brake cleaner on this. You can buy either special mass air flow sensor cleaner or electrical component cleaner at any auto parts store for around $6 - $10. Just remove the sensor and spray the heck out of it from all angles, let it dry, and reinstall it. I would also suggest removing the battery's negative post to reset computer back to base settings. I have "repaired" many vehicles over the years that have had the same symptoms as yours with just a sensor cleaning. If nothing changes, I would recommend to replace the sensor. Part number:(NNN) NNN-NNNN Please clean it 1st, test drive for a day or so, and let me know the results.
I will try today and get back to you.
Well I tried to clean the ma's airflow, didn't worked. I replaced it and it worked and didn't. It took almost all hesitation away except when at idle , it will idle about 8 to 9 hundred rpms and drop down to 5 hundred and almost stall, and then like someone switched a switch, it will jump right back to 8 to 9 hundred rpms. I'll be going about 45 mph, engine will be around 2000 rpms and the engine will start jumping from 2000 to 2200 rpms and back and forth. Can't tell if its the engine or shifting between drive and over drive. I did take off neg battery terminal and reset the computer after installing the new mass sensor. I ran it several times , clearing codes each time. Right now it has trouble code 0152, 1133, and 300. Pending codes are 300, 1133, and 1153. I'm stumped, crank sensor?. Scott.
Outwell it's now Saturday morning I took the car for another ride there is still some hesitation and then all of a sudden it will kick in like somebody flipped a light switch . not as bad as it was before I change the mass airflow sensor . also there's now that hesitation I said that happened yesterday between 2000 and 2200 rpm that happened today started surging . but it was only between 17 and 1900 p.m. The engine is just surging .I'm not sure what else to tell you but its still the same . .the surging is happening when I'm not a seller rating or decelerating just Hollin the gas pedal steady The surging happens when im holding the gas steady, not accelerating or decellorstingthingq
P0152 HO2S Circuit HIGH Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
- Double check for any vacuum leaks. That is the most common possibility of the surge. If no leaks are found, I would clean out the throttle body, and perform an upper induction service. A shop can do this for about $80 - $120. That will get out all of the carbon build up that may cause a rough running issue. If that does not take care of it, then next step would be to test the throttle position sensor, and replace if needed. This is relative easy on this vehicle if you have a digital multi meter.
TP sensor output voltage at closed throttle:
The throttle position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. The PCM monitors the voltage on the signal line and calculates throttle position. As the throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal moved), the TP sensor signal also changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP1 sensor is low. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that at wide open throttle (WOT), the output voltage should be above 92% (Tech 2 Display). The PCM calculates fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose TP sensor may cause intermittent bursts of fuel from an injector and unstable idle because the PCM thinks the throttle is moving.
- let me know if you need further assistance - we WILL find the source of the issue!
Ican't respond yet to you last things you told me to try because I can't get to it till tomorrow I can't write you and tell I tried what you said to try next I don't know if it's going to work I'm not sure we still getting I'm still getting cold after driving it today
this vehicle is going to drive me nuts.yesterday driving yet I got a free hundred code 1133 1153 and 152. I have bought a spare vehicle for spare parts so I had an extra throttle body and throttle position sensor and I put them on and talking for a test drive what we got was random of 300 ,1153, 1133 and 152. the vehicle seem to run great far as I could feel no more surging nice n smooth no hesitation, it drop low rpms one when we first started to take off, but didn't do it again. Cleared codes went for another ride and all I got was 132 code. No other codes. Yesterday
some point got a 131 and a 1751.
P0131 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0132 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
- I don't have a listing for P1751.
- I know you have already changed the B2S1 O2 sensor. Before replacing the B1S1, check the connections. At the sensor, the electrical connector, and at the PCM. Corrosion build up could also cause these issues. If nothing is found, stick a new B1S1 sensor in there and see what happens. See the wire diagram and diag chart below:
Circuit Description The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a bias voltage of about 450 mV between the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) signal and low circuits. When measured with a 10 megaohm digital voltmeter, this may display as low as 320 mV . The oxygen sensor varies the voltage within a range of about 1000 mV when exhaust is rich, down through about 10 mV when exhaust is lean. The PCM constantly monitors the HO2S signal during "closed loop" operation and compensates for a rich or lean condition by decreasing or increasing injector pulse width as necessary. If the Bank 1 HO2S 1 voltage remains excessively high for an extended period of time, DTC P0132 will be set.Conditions for Setting the DTC
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
Diagnostic Aids Check the following items:
I was going to ask , when I scan , sometimes mil is on and some times off. Does that help?.
No will do.
I understand what you're telling me on how to test each sensor.something is making these sensors give codes. I don't think the sensors are bad, but there is something going on making the sensors give me the codes. i've changed the mass air flow, put on new throttle body with a different TCP on it ,we replace oxygen sensor tha still gives the 152 code . does that mean it is cam sensor ,crank sensor , bad fuel injectors . after I reset the battery , I took it for a ride, it was cold, before it was completely warmed up, I would accelerate it I got a 300 code. Drove it about 7 miles 8 miles and also got a 152 , they were pending bcodes not trouble codes. I ate supper I cleared the codes, drove about
15 miles no codes what so ever ran app solutely perfect, had a coffee and drove home when I was driving home check engine light came on
again 300 code 152 something's acting up , but not all the time. I pulled all the coils and checked them. New plugs, ngk's. On the way home when it acted up again, it fell on its face, then all of a sudden , like a switch, refer up and ran smooth and really accelerated. Lost on what to do next.
I do believe the reason the engine suddenly bogs down is because it switches back to "open loop" after detecting the conditions to set a P0152 code. I would really like to see some freeze frame data when the code is set. You may have an intermittent leaking injector or very subtle vacuum leak. I would also like to do a fuel injector balance test and fuel pump pressure test to determine output of the pump and each injector. I really hate to say this, but you may have to take it to the dealer and pay for diag. We have covered all the common possible problems, and will need deeper diagnostics tests. If you do take it to a dealer, I would really like to know the outcome. Please let me review the estimate before having them proceed w/ a repair. If you don't have an Isuzu dealer near by, you can take it to a Honda dealer being the engine was built by Honda.
Thank you . I'll let you know.