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I'd first check the connections at all four corners first for any signs of corrosion or chafed wiring.
The sensor is located in the wheel hub so you'll have to remove each wheel in turn to inspect them all.
Also check that the toothed wheel that the sensor points to is clean and free of any debris.
you can check each sensor's function by plugging the two output wires into an AC voltmeter and spinning the wheel quite quickly, you should get a voltage signal that increases with rev's.
Its possible that the fault is only a bad connection to one of the wheel sensors.
This may be remedied by removing each wheel in turn and unplugging each sensor and cleaning the contacts with a squirt of electrical contact cleaner. Then refitting.
as for the clunking noise then new shocks do not need to be 'broken' in the ride should nice and quiet with no clunks from the beginning
if there's clunking then something is either badly worn or not tightened up as it means a suspension part is moving about and you can do a quick check yourself
to look for worn suspension joints - jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground (you’ll need to do this for all 4 corners) and shake the tyre from top to bottom and from side to side (with someone holding the steering wheel on the front) there should be no play in either direction. Any play in 1 direction will usually require a joint to be replaced, if there’s play in both directions then the wheel bearing may be at fault. If theres play only up and down its the strut top mount - to find this one you have to shake the suspension strut it self up and down with the wheel off the ground - so you may need to remove the wheel to check this one.
Now with the car jacked up on that side with the wheel about 2 inches off the ground use a steel bar under the wheel and lever the wheel up and down slightly, you should be able to look at the end of the axle and see if the suspension arm is moving up and down separately to the axle.If so replace the bush
To feel if there's a worn strut top bearing then lightly hold the spring by hand and have your assistant move the steering from left to right with the wheel on the ground - a worn bearing will feel 'notchy' through the spring. The wheel needs to be on the ground for the test to load up the bearing