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Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 17264
Experience:  Honors degree in Mechanical Engineering, worked 8 years as a Formula 1 engine engineer.
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Compass: Good morning to you, I have just a few questions regarding

Resolved Question:

Good morning to you, I have just a few questions regarding our 2008 Jeep Compass this is a 4 cylinder 2.4 liter front wheel drive. We just replaced both front hub assemblies, ti-rods, and the rear shocks about two months ago. Also had the wheels balanced and alignment done at the same time. My first question is the ESP/BAS light is coming on quite frequently, tire pressure is fine, at first it seemed like whenever a door was shut too hard or when somebody got into the vehicle and shook the car around while sitting down, or after loading groceries was when the light came on. Now it is doing this more frequently, this problem started before we had all of the repairs done, so we figured something was off in the balance of the bearings, shocks, or ti-rods. But the light comes on more now than it did before the repairs. Do you have any explanation to why this is happening?

Also my second question and problem is the rear driver side suspension, or new shocks. Could even be that it is both sides of the rear but I think it seems to settle within the driver rear side. We had brand new shocks put on and when driving the Jeep down the road the shocks were really stiff and made a clunking sound, the mechanic said that this was normal as the shocks needed to be broke in and the noise would subside. This was two months ago and the clunking is getting worse sounds as if there is no shocks at all at this point even while driving over small bump in the road. Could you tell me where the problem may arise in both of these issues with my Compass, we just spent 4000 dollars replacing these parts expecting a smooth and problem free vehicle. Would like to know what these could be before going to another mechanic only to be told more money needs to be spent and possibly still not fixing these problems. If I go in there knowing what these problems may be I have a better chance of and honest diagnostic. Thank you so much for your time it is greatly appreciated
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hello

this sounds like an issue with one of the wheel speed sensors to me as its quite easy to damage them on removing an old sensor and they don't last forever

I'd first check the connections at all four corners first for any signs of corrosion or chafed wiring.

The sensor is located in the wheel hub so you'll have to remove each wheel in turn to inspect them all.

Also check that the toothed wheel that the sensor points to is clean and free of any debris.

you can check each sensor's function by plugging the two output wires into an AC voltmeter and spinning the wheel quite quickly, you should get a voltage signal that increases with rev's.

Its possible that the fault is only a bad connection to one of the wheel sensors.

This may be remedied by removing each wheel in turn and unplugging each sensor and cleaning the contacts with a squirt of electrical contact cleaner. Then refitting.

as for the clunking noise then new shocks do not need to be 'broken' in the ride should nice and quiet with no clunks from the beginning

if there's clunking then something is either badly worn or not tightened up as it means a suspension part is moving about and you can do a quick check yourself

to look for worn suspension joints - jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground (you’ll need to do this for all 4 corners) and shake the tyre from top to bottom and from side to side (with someone holding the steering wheel on the front) there should be no play in either direction. Any play in 1 direction will usually require a joint to be replaced, if there’s play in both directions then the wheel bearing may be at fault. If theres play only up and down its the strut top mount - to find this one you have to shake the suspension strut it self up and down with the wheel off the ground - so you may need to remove the wheel to check this one.

Now with the car jacked up on that side with the wheel about 2 inches off the ground use a steel bar under the wheel and lever the wheel up and down slightly, you should be able to look at the end of the axle and see if the suspension arm is moving up and down separately to the axle.If so replace the bush

To feel if there's a worn strut top bearing then lightly hold the spring by hand and have your assistant move the steering from left to right with the wheel on the ground - a worn bearing will feel 'notchy' through the spring. The wheel needs to be on the ground for the test to load up the bearing

 

Matt, Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 17264
Experience: Honors degree in Mechanical Engineering, worked 8 years as a Formula 1 engine engineer.
Matt and 13 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you very much for your detailed response. We will be able to diagnose this problem with your help and it seems like these are all problems we will be able to fix ourselves. If we have any other questions w know that you will be helpful in your advice. Thank you again, have a blessed day!

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Matt
Matt
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Honors degree in Mechanical Engineering, worked 8 years as a Formula 1 engine engineer.