The timing belt was changed for the second time at about 120k miles. Yes it has a tach.
I don't know if the tach moves or not. I'll have to get back to you on that.
I'll check the tach response ASAP.
When I engage the starter, the tach needle never moves.
Changed the crank position sensor and double checked the timing marks on the cams to make sure it didn't skip a tooth. Still no start. Any more suggestions. PCM maybe?
Tach is still dead. What's the best way to check for spark? I have a Sun induction timing light. Would that work?
Ok thanks, I'll check in the morning.
Did what you said; pulled a plug, put the coil back on and cranked the engine. No spark. I could smell fuel though so I think it's getting fuel.
I don't own a code scanner (yet). I have the timing belt covers off and checked the timing marks. They look fine. I haven't actually seen the belt turn when cranking, but everything turns fine when I used a wrench to manually turn the crankshaft.
The check engine light comes on with the key in 'on' position. I checked all the fuses for burn -out yesterday and found the fuse labeled B/UP LP TCU blown. I replaced the fuse today and it blew as soon as I cranked the engine. I did not think it was related to the starting problem. It was a 10amp but I was out of 10's and put in a 20. (I know, bad idea). The 20 hasn't blown yet. Don't know if this is relevent. I don't know what LP or TCU means.
Ok, will do. I'm finished for today because I have to go to work soon. Thanks so much for your help. I'll let you know what happens. I'm working long hours so I don't know when I'll get a chance to look at it.
Hey Roy, just a follow up. Re the 2003 Santa Fe no start. So far I've changed:crank position sensorignition coilscam position sensorCompression showed only 90psi in the cylinder I tested but my othercar, a hyundai elantra shows the same and it runs. It's an oldcompression tester and may not be accurate. Also it was about 28degrees F the day I checked.I've opened the fuel tank, removed the pump and tested it (good).Cleaned the filter. It didn't look bad. Voltage check shows fuel pumpis receiving no voltage when the key is on.I've rechecked the fuses twice. No more blown. Pulled the fuel pumprelay and the ecu relays and they all check good. (I have a 12vdcpower supply). I checked the relay sockets and they are all getting12v constant and 12v trigger when key is on. Checked the connectorplugs to the cam and crank sensors and they are both receivingreference voltage when the key is on.I charge the battery periodically so it doesn't run down.I verified the cams timing one more time today. Spot on.I bought a scanner/code checker but it shows no codes, only gives analert on the fuel system. I assume because the pump isn't running sono pressure.Only two components I haven't checked or replaced that have shown tobe possible problems for other people with the same problem: EGR andMAF sensor.Other than those two, I have to look to the pcm.Do you have ANY insight on what could be the problem? I'm about readyto junk the car except I have too much money tied up in new parts.
I checked for spark previously and there was none.The check engine light is on when the key is on.Yes, there are four cams. And yes, all four marks line up correctlywhen the crank is at TDC. I use a mirror to see both banks clearly.I haven't tried spraying starting fluid into the air filter. I willdo this when I can and let you know.Really, you've gone above and beyond for what I've paid. I don'texpect you to put in any more time and effort on this problem. thanksagain
number 25 - backup lamps, vehicle speed sensor, TCM . It's a 10A.
I think I responded in the wrong box. But what I said was, I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and got no response. But I discovered today that the intake cam gear on the back bank is one tooth off. I had checked it a couple times already but it was tough to see straight on. Would that cause a no-start?
Tried starting fluid in the intake. Nothing. The fuse is no. 25 in the interior fuse box.
Rechecked the ecu relay today. Tests fine. The socket shows 12v on pin 30 and 12v also on the trigger pin (86). Even with the key out of the ignition. I can hear the relay click when I put it in the socket. Is this right?
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You gave me the critical information I was missing. My fuse chart doesn't show the ignition failure sensor on fuse 25. So I did some more research on that and learned that a coil pack failure can burn out the IFS. Since I already installed three new coil packs, I just replaced the IFS, which is right on top and easy to get to. Lo and behold, the car runs again.
Now I'm getting a check engine light for O2 sensor and O2 sensor heater. I had them disconnected for a few days when I was troubleshooting. Plus the car sat for awhile, so I'm hoping the light goes away after a few drive cycles.
But the car runs and I'm happy. Thanks again for all your help.