The shifter shakes constantly when I'm driving over 50MPH and it's very noticeable and not slight at all. The steering wheel will shake also really bad when driving over 50-60MPH or braking from those speeds as well (doesn't shake at all with low speeds). I tried the wheel test when the car was jacked up and it didn't budge at all. It's not really a grinding sound I hear it's more like a light scraping noise and it happens on both wheels. The noise sounds exactly like this video, but not as a loud: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7b2RK7Udwg
Are you talking about the caliper slide pins? I did have one on the rear I noticed that was semi-frozen; I could unscrew easily, but it refused to come all the way out. I did notice when I changed my pads there was a ton of (loose) rust and stuff in all the piston bores, but I cleaned it out as best I could.
My rear pads were also wearing out from the outside in like the ends were worn almost to nothing, but lots of remaining pad in the middle.
Alright, I created another problem for myself, lol. I was going to replace my rotors now and one of the passenger side caliper brakcet bolts broke off in the bracket; however I was able to get the rotor off. I was able to get the driver's side bracket off without issue, but that rotor is not coming off I used liquid wrench, hammers, and everything to try and break it free. It got to late though and don't want my neighbors hating me for pounding metal after midnight.
But, both of my front brake pads are wearing out in the same pattern also from the outside in. Those caliper bolts came off fairly easy though and the rubber part seemed to move freely. Do you think my calipers are shot?
The wear on the pads could also be a wear pattern from the rotors. Since you did not replace the rotors with the pads there may be groves in the pads. I have seen this wear there is rust on the rotors and digs out the edges of the pads.
Also, another tech at my shop says that he has seen excessive shifter vibration in trucks caused by bad u-joints in the drive shaft. I would fix the brakes/front end vibration first though because vibrations have a tendency to travel around a vehicle, so the shifter could be vibrating because of the other vibration issues.
Alright, thanks I will probably go to a machine shop to see if they can drill out the bolt for me. I've never done bolt extraction before and don't have time to learn/mess it up more today. I also did some research online and found u-joints mentioned as well. I'll do as you suggest though and try the front brakes first though. I'll be traveling starting tomorrow though, so I'll let you know in a few days how I make out. Thanks for your help so far.
Okay, I brought my bracket to a mechanic I visit sometimes and he said to buy a new caliper. I then brought it to a automotive shop with a machine shop and they got it out for 50 bucks in 5 minutes, lol. Then went to the dealer and picked up an extra bolt last one left! I got the other rotor off whacked it with a hammer a few times really hard.
I believe my passenger caliper is shot. I pumped the brakes about two or three times with the rotor off and only one piston moved. The other pretty much stayed put and is pretty hard to compress back in. Also, on the driver side I put the new rotor in and the pistons put pressure on it with no problems.
When you install new rotors should it be pretty hard to turn the wheel? It also sounds like it might be rubbing against the brake pad. I also put anti-seized on the hub? Where the studs are connected, but not on the studs themselves. I also rubbed it around the outside of the center bore. That should be safe to help prevent rust correct? The rotor is not fully flush also unless I push it all the way back. I was always use to rusted rotors, so I never had to deal with this. When I put my tires back on and torque them to the correct setting it should be fine then right?
I also took out the caliper slider pins, cleaned them, and put a good about of brake lubricant on them. It's purple silicone oil based according to the ingredients that is the correct lubricant right?
Looks like you did everything right. I would say if the one caliper piston didn't come out while pushing the pedal that it is sticking and probably should be replaced. Just for future reference you should push the brake pedal with out the pads and rotor on with the caliper, you can actually blow the piston right out of the caliper doing that. The rotors not sitting flush is a normal thing the wheel will hold it in place once you put it on.
Also, looks like you put the anti-seize in the right places that should help to keep the rust from holding the rotor so tight. That brake lubricant should work just fine.
Alright, well I took the car out for a small test drive, but due to traffic will have to go out again later. The steering wheel still shakes left and right though. Braking seemed pretty good and better with the new rotors, but I could feel the passenger one interfering.
I know I shouldn't have tested it that way, but my back was killing me and I took a shortcut won't happen again. I had a feeling it was bad anyway and just wanted to verify it.
I haven't had an alignment in awhile, but I was planning on changing my shocks before doing that. A bad alignment can cause the steering wheel to act like that right? I'll have to see if my shifter acts a little better when I drive later.
Well with the caliper and pads off the wheel turns pretty easily. But when I put the caliper on it feels like it's constantly in contact with the pads or caliper. The old rotors turned regardless (scraping sometimes), but they were pretty messed up. I bought Centric 12042080 rotors and says they are for my car.
Both of the pads seemed to wear evenly except the ends were at 45 degree angles. I just took it for a spin going from 10-80MPH and the shifter seemed to not vibrate like it used to. The steering wheel still vibrated a little bit left to right and this was a pretty even road. Looks like my gas is taking a hit though from the sticking caliber I can literally watch the gauge drop.
Should calipers be replaced in pairs? I also took an IR Thermostat to my rotors and calipers the one that is seizing was about 10 degrees hotter then the driver side.
The rear rotors were like 40-50 degrees hotter then the front as well. I didn't replace my rear rotors yet, but are they supposed to be that much hotter? Could the RWD have something to do with that much heat?
I did replace the fluid and bleed my brakes when I changed the pads about a month ago (everything seemed to flow nicely). I'll have to test hoses sometime next week when I get back.
Alright, I'll order a re-manufactured caliper from RockAuto is it recommended to replace the brake hose also?
I didn't have to twist anything when I replaced those pads I just used the same thing I used for the fronts to compress them in. They weren't worn that much and had the same 45 degree angles, but I replaced them last month anyway.
How would I go about checking how tight they are?
I did put my car in neutral the other day when all four were on jack stands. I couldn't move the rear wheels at all. I figured it had something to do with being RWD.
Alright, thanks I will check that stuff out and get back to you in a few days.
Okay I did ~300 miles so far and noticed more details about vibrations. Steering wheel shakes at all speeds, shifter little bit. Then as soon as I hit 70+ shifter and basically whole car vibrates. I can feel vibrations in driver seat, all down center of car, and passenger seat. I couldn't go this fast in town.
I have new struts just need toinstall them. So besides the struts, caliper, and algnment anything else I should look at? How long do springs usually last?
Is a lift required for the u joints? Is this something a novice who can follow directions do? I have alldatadiy just want to make sure I don't get in over my head.
Oh yea tires look good pretty much brand new. I had to replace one though that had a bent rim and bulge on the side.
Finally had sometime to dedicate to my car and I think I can say that I got rid of 80-90% of my vibrations. I just took it out for a test drive upto about 90MPH and both the steering wheel and shift reacted a lot differently before I replaced some parts. I wasn't fighting the steering wheel to steer and the shifter doesn't look like it's going to fly out of the driveshaft. I can still feel some vibrations, but I haven't changed out my rear rotors or struts yet.
I replaced both front calipers (I ordered both, but then noticed the driver side was digging into the top of the rotor at an angle), I replaced both struts, and I replaced the two ball joints in the wheel knuckle they busted on me.
If I hear ticking from the engine that is usually the fuel injectors correct? Also, I had my car up on jack stands for about a week and didn't start it. When I started it for a very long time there was something like a clanking sound. I read online that it could possibly be the timing tensioner going bad and it takes longer for the oil pressure to build in the engine. Do you know anything about this and is this something that I should get fixed?
This might be a dumb question and I have heard about the screwdriver trick. But, aren't the fuel injectors located under the upper and lower plenum? How would I test them with the engine running?
Also, the shaking came back on the interstate again, however, I think I might have figured out what was causing my problem. There are no hubcentric rings on my aftermarket wheels that I use for winter driving. I'm thinking possibly the wheels start of fine and aligned like last night when it was perfect, but then become unaligned during driving. I'm kind of glad it took awhile to figure it out though, since I found some other problems I wasn't aware of. I need to buy some of those rings and see if it makes a difference.
It sounds like either a faint rattle or ticking noise while my car is running. I'm about 2500 miles under 130K and I am taking my car into Nissan on Thursday just to have them check out the rattling noise.
So, I took it to Firestone and bought the lifetime alignment along with a wheel balance. I still need to replace my rear shocks. They told me my tires were "choppy" and it was difficult to align my car due to being "lowered and modified". The thing is my car isn't lowered or modified it's stock w/sport suspension, but I did put in some Tokico HP blue shocks in the front. I have the KYB GR2/Excel-G for the rears I will be installing. I also have 18" winter wheels vs. the 19" that came stock with the car.
These are the measurements I was given.
FR 8.1 SAI
I looked up the specs on AllData for both 18" and 19" wheels and I'm way off. Is it possible the tech didn't know what he was doing or is my suspension in need of some serious work? The tires are pretty good tread wise, but they said I need four new tires. Considering I replaced one less then a month ago and that was included in the all tires choppy statement I'm a little hesitant to conclude they did a decent job.
*I also noticed that my passenger side lower control arm moved a lot more freely then the driver side. It almost feels like the bushing on the mounting bolt is not there.
Yes, you're correct the adjusted only the toe on my car. The car veers significantly to the right now. I'm concerned with the SAI and Include Angle readings from what I read online that can be caused by bent spindles, knuckles, struts, or strut towers. Is there anyway to confirm if these parts are bent at all?
I could do all of the above without any problems on the control arm and when I disconnected it from the knuckle it just fell down to the floor (still attached of course). I could wiggle it left, right, up, and down without any kind of resistance. The driver side reacted more like how you described. Should I just buy a new control arm or look at replacing the bushings? I don't have a press and the control arm has almost 130K miles on it.
Tomorrow I'm going to try and replace my rear shocks and double check the front struts to make sure I properly torqued and mounted them.
I've heard of SPC and there outside of my budget right now, lol. I changed the rear rotors and shocks last week, but came across another bad caliper. The pin was seized and stuck with no grease at all. So, I ordered a replacement along with a lower control arm for the front and going to take care of that now. I'm also going to install new hub centric rings and hope that helps out with my issues.
Should suspension parts be tightened with a load put on them (ie: jack up the knuckle?) After that will take it back to Firestone for an alignment in the next day or two. I did check out the tires and the rears were worn on the inside and middle sort of at an angle.
I know I can't rotate my tires since they are staggered, but do you think it would be a good idea to switch the sides the tires are currently on?
Alright, I didn't get to replace the lower control arm yet ran out of free time. But, with the new rear rotors and rear shocks the car runs better and I took it on the roads I noticed the most problems with. The steering wheel doesn't shake nearly as bad and the shifter knob is pretty firm now.
However, when I do get to about 80-90+MPH (I don't this fast normally) the steering wheel shakes noticeably, but nowhere near like it used to. Does this mean I can have some worn out steering parts (ie: tie rods) or just do to bad wear on the tires? I can feel mostly thumping now from the tire wear, but I can live with that until I buy a new set.
Also, I think I know the cause of this, but when I go over bumps and potholes I hear sort of a clunking noise from the passenger rear. I think the strut nut might not be tight enough. Are there any mechanic secrets for tightening these? I used vice grips on the top shaft with a wrench underneath and got it as tight as possible. I'm also going to check out the strut mount as well.
Overall though the car is 90% better now then when I noticed these problems.
Okay, I changed the lower control arm today the bushing that connects to the chassis through a bolt was completely destroyed; I could move it easily with a pry bar (The driver one is still holding up, but I can see the bushing is damaged). I had to replace the caliper again in the rear, since I noticed the one they sent me was leaking. While I was back there I checked the sway bars and they seemed pretty firm. The end links I could easily move left and right, but it looks like they are designed that way? I could do it on both the front and back end links. The only thing that seemed to have a little bit of play was a black bar going from the spindle up to the chassis (there are two total). I think it's called a tie end or something?
I have two more questions that popped up just today and it seems like I fix one thing and another thing breaks.
I think when I originally asked you about the clunking noise I think it might be a bad idler pulley now. When I start my car now it's a different noise, but sounds like bearings worn out and I heard the belt squeak a few times. Are these relatively difficult to replace? I have new belts I was going to install also, but if I have bad pulleys I might as well do them at once. I also put a stethoscope to a few parts on the engine and it sounds pretty quiet in there other then like a chain moving I guess, but no extremely large clunks.
Also, when I was under the car I noticed a small decent size of oil at certain points around the pan and the part the filter screws in. I believe that's called an oil cooler, but I'm not positive. Is that something that should be leaking I mean obviously not, but is that something that would be difficult to replace?
Okay, I looked on RockAuto and those black bars are called trailing arm and lateral link. Are they similar to what a tie rod on the front does? I do know my car has rear active steering.
I replaced my belts today and used a marker to label where the tensioner was set to. I then took out both pulleys, cleaned them, and put some grease on them. All of the pulleys spun freely without issues except the crankshaft one. The new belts smoked for about a second that's normal right? I heard the same two noises something similar to a grinding and a belt squeaking. But, with the new belts it's more intermittent then it was prior. I put a stethoscope on each idler pulleys nut. I heard more of a grinding noise from the left one, but will replace both since they are the same age. I can't tell if any of the other pulleys are bad though since there is nowhere to place the stethoscope safely.
I sprayed brake cleaner all around the dirty areas I saw, but then I noticed the upper oil pan looks like it was leaking. I did have an antifreeze leak I fixed, so I cleaned that area also and will check it in a few days.
I replaced the two idle pulleys and the noise is still there. I then disconnected the AC compressor belt and the noise was still there. So, I have narrowed it down to the harmonic balancer, alternator, power steering, or the other idle pulley. My next step I was going to try is removing that idle pulley they sell a modification to remove it and just requires a slightly smaller belt. I uploaded three videos anyway you can maybe have a listen and let me know what you think? Also, I adjusted the tension before, after, and while the engine was running. It would go away for a little bit, but then come back. Is it possible for the tensioner brackets and bolts to go bad?
So, I took it to a mechanic today also for a quick diagnosis it's within walking distance of my home as well. He wanted 500 bucks to change the water pump (he came to the same conclusion), so I decided to perform this on my own and I do have the Infiniti FSM for my car. I also ordered a new timing chain tensioner from the dealership as well.
I'm also going to order a new power steering pump. If I wanted to replace the timing chain odds are I'd probably have to remove most of the front car right?
I did see that you have to turn the crankshaft manually by hand. What's the best way to avoid skipping any teeth? I plan on reading the procedure and doing a lot of research before I even attempt to do this.
I do plan on grounding my car for the time being; I have another I can drive, but is the bearing in the pump most likely going out? I just want to get an idea of what kind of damage can occur besides from overheating, which doesn't seem to be a problem as of now.
Checked under the car also about that oil leak I mentioned and it does seem like it's coming from the cooler or lower pan. I plan on putting a new cooler gasket and possibly lower pan gasket in and actually read they do fail alot. Also, from the top weephole I think I might have a very minor coolant leak and that's most likely from the water pump right?
I think I need a new AC idler bracket the bolt doesn't tighten on straight it goes up at an angle. It was causing the pulley nuts to loosen on their own and flew around my garage a few times, lol. I did manage to find them though, I had to take the dust shields off for now to keep it tight enough, but the pulleys I replaced the original with claim they don't dust shields anyway.
Okay thanks for your advice.
I'm assuming your Z is similar to my G and I have two access holes in the front of the engine. I think I will just replace the tensioner and water pump for now due to time restraints. The manual says to also move the crankshaft to release slack on the chain. How much is usually a good amount to move crankshaft?
Also, do you know if it's possible to replace just the pulleys on a power steering pump or would I be better off just buying a new/reman one?
Alright, I will buy a new pump eventually and get this done as well. My belt is pretty new, but since they have been running on this pump with a bent pulley shaft would it need to be replaced?
Okay, so I replaced the tensioner and water pump today, but I think I possibly messed up my timing.
The tensioner looked good and so did the primary guide. I turned the crank clockwise a little bit to get some slack and pulled the tensioner out. I undid the three water pump bolts and turned the chain the opposite way to get slack on that side. I heard a pop after turning it once or twice (small increments) I turned it a few more times and got enough slack to remove the pump. The water pump was shot. It was rusty, seize when I spun it, and make a loud screeching/grinding noise by hand.
I thought maybe the pop was the pump bracket coming loose from inside the block. I could turn the plate where the bolts went in behind the chain. Do you think my timing is messed up though?
Yep, I took everything apart and my garage is a mess now! I set TDC at compression stroke and the primary chain is four teeth off! I'm awaiting replacement parts and going to replace the guides and primary chain. I was able to do it in the car and leaving the bumper and radiator in place.
Thanks for your help!