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Engine cranks. but will not start. Tried jumping and still no ignition. Battery is holding a charge. Is there a separate winding on the alternator for the ignition system? There was no indication that the charging system was not working. No dimming lights, heater fan slowdown etc.
The onl.y code I found was P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage, Bank1 sensor 2 , p2270 O2 sensor signial stuck lean,Bank 1 Sensor 2. Those are the codes
OK, so if the engine just cranks, it sounds like you have a fuel issue. Start by checking the fuel pump fuse, if it is good, turn the key to run, but not start and you should be able to hear the fuel pump prime itself - it will make a "hum" sound for about 2 seconds. If you can't hear it, have a buddy put his ear up to the fuel filer neck w/ the cap off and do it again, and if you still can't hear the fuel pump prime, then you either have a bad fuel pump or an electrical issue in the fuel pump circuit. If that is the case, let me know, and I can explain how to test the fuel pump circuit.
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with fuel. If they were not wet I would agree. Tell me further why you think it is the fuel pump? did I miss something here?
Okay, that makes sense. My first thought was crank position sensor. I will not be able to verify the fuel pump issue until tonight. Will confirm and let you know if I need further help.Thanks
No code until I actually unplugged the sensor then got a code. I will have new one tonight as I ordered it yesterday. will let you know the results. I am clicking on the rating now so you get paid. If I need further assistance I will contact you again tomorrow. thanks for the help.
Still didn't start last night will be working on it again tonight. Have several things along getting a gage to check fuel line pressure. Pump runs and at key on then stops as pressure is built up.
Just an update. My son are working on this car so some of my answers take longer to reply to. WE found the nut on the end of the intake cam shaft loose and upon further inspection found the cam not turning when turning over by hand. It appears the key broke. Not sure why and when cranking the engine there was no mechanical noise so I don't think the valves are damaged or the pistons. Will know better when we put in a new key. Was there a TSB about this?
Here is what we found. The cap nut that holds the gear to the shoulder on the intake cam shaft has loosened about 2 turns. (hand turnable) This was enough to allow an alternative path for the oil that runs through the cam shaft to lubricate bearings 2,3,5 to starve and self destruct. bearings 1 where the oil comes in is okay and 5 is okay. There is transfer of bearing material to the cam but I think we can emery the aluminum off. The bearing blocks are not available from Honda or anyone for that matter. We were told by the dealer that the only avenue here is a new head with all the valves and rockers included. On the cap nut on the intake camshaft it appears that it was not torqued properly when the engine was built as there is no markings indicating that it has been tampered with. At this point we are contacting Honda USA to see what they can do. There are some other cases of this happening in Honda S2000's only. This cam shaft turns in a counter clockwise rotation so every time the engine started the inertia of the gear turning the cam was in the direction to loosen the cap. (bad design) That is why I asked about TSB's.. Everything else in the engine is clean. The timing gears, chain tensioner etc. are all good the exhaust cam shows no wear to speak of and it rotates clockwise so the nut never sees that inertia force. If you know of any avenues for us to follow for please advise. Thanks
That is a bummer for sure. I did find some contacts for Honda USA:
toll-free number: 1-800-999-1009
Fax (310) 783-3023 (24 Hours)
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.Honda Automobile Customer Service1919 Torrance BoulevardMail Stop: 500 - 2N - 7ATorrance, CA 90501-2746
- If Honda, does not want to assist, you could remove the head and send it out to a machine shop and have it rebuilt vs. getting it replaced. Personally, I would prefer this option for cost savings vs. replacing the assembly, AND you can throw in some performance parts into the mix if so desired.