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If there are clips on the ac lines it means they require a tool to release them, this tool comes in a kit as well that services ac and fuel lines.
If the blocks/heads have the mounting holes then you can swap the accessories and the brackets, if they do not have the same mounting holes then you will have to convert your vehicle to adapt to the location of the new ac compressor and power steering pump.... if you cannot do that for any reason then you will not be able to use that engine.
This is the type of tool kit for those lines I was referring to: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ac+fuel+kit&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=ac+fuel+kit+tool&_sacat=0
Sometimes some lube like wd 40 or penetrating oil like pb blaster can be sprayed into the connectors to help them come apart, but you still need the tool to release them.
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You can remove the engine and trans at the same time however you will need at least 2-3 people as it has to come out at an angle and you have to be careful to not cause damage.
Most of the time it is much better to pull them separately if possible.
You will want to start by draining the cooling system and removing the radiator and fan assemblies for better access, then remove any accessories in the way and remove the engine harness from the engine along with anything else needing to be remove to remove the motor, you will then go under the truck and disconnect the driveshaft and remove lower bellhousing cover to remove the bolts from the converter to flywheel, and the bolts holding the trans to the engine, along with removing the electrical connecters, and fluid lines, at that time you should undo and remove your exhaust as needed as well. Then remove the trans, once the trans is removed connect the engine to the engine hoist and undo your motor mounts then lift the engine out.
Sorry I did not include that info before as I didn't see that in your question.
It is not very complicated just time consuming.
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Simply remove the two clamps holding the ujoint to the rear yoke then you can drop the driveshaft and slide it out of the back of the trans.
You can leave the trans mount mounted to the trans or crossmember your choice.
Correct, pull the starter, trans lines, electrical connectors, undo the flywheel to torque converter bolts and then pull all the bolts out of the trans while the trans is supported with a trans jack.
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The exhaust will only drop to something that stops it, once it is released from the manifolds the only thing that holds it up is the hangers and thus it can pivot. Once you remove the crossmember you can then drop the exhaust further or completely remove it. (your choice). You need to disconnect the o2 sensor harness connectors before you drop the exhaust or you can damage them or the harnesses.
On the driveshaft that is correct, it is removed from the rear diff yoke and then if there is a center pull that then it slides out of the trans.
In terms of the trans lines and upper bellhousing to block bolts, you may find it much easier to put the trans on a trans jack, put the jack taunt and then up just a hair to take pressure off it, next remove the crossmember, now slowly lower the trans jack just enough to allow you access to the trans lines and the upper housing bolts. Once everything is disconnected now jack it back up a little bit to where it wont just slide off and remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts, once that is done use the jack in a height position that allows you to slide the trans back and out/off the motor and remove it from the vehicle. A very important note is use the support safety chains on the trans jack so that the trans does not fall off the trans jack.
Do not worry, I have no problem continuing to assist you, that is what I am here for.
I do not show torsion arms on this model, are you sure they are not instead the radius arms? Is there a bolt that goes through the end of them?
Yes there's a mlarge bolt at the end. I need to remove 2 bolts on each side, remove the 2 large nuts and try to slide it out. Rog Please send text to my phone XXX XXX XXXX to reply. I'm leaving home now. Thanks
I will see if I can have support change to text but I don't know if I can do that from my end, you may have to do that on your account.
Those are the radius arms, not torsion so you can remove the bolts/nuts and slide it off of them, if the bushings are bad make sure to replace them. Its usually connected to the axle/control arm in front.
Those are pretty much steel rivots, you have to grind them off and then to reinstall you drill the holes through the frame to match and mount them with correct grade bolts.
No problem, just let me know if you need any further help.
Not really, you pretty much have it covered. You can pull it out with the trans just like I stated it will be much harder and to prevent damage you really need at least two people. You could drain the trans first to prevent trans fluid from coming out of the tail housing.
Your going to have to tilt the motor to get the trans out and to tilt the motor you really have to come far enough forward which sometimes the core support of a vehicle can be in the way.
Sounds good, just reply back if you need any further help.
That is some of the problems I was talking about that you would run into, the motor has to come out even higher then normal with the trans connected and also at an angle, its a huge pain esp if the core/radiator support is still in the vehicle.
In terms of the radiator, it is only the same with the automatic transmission, the manual trans uses a different radiator between those two vehicles however one can usually modify it to work.
I am very sorry about that, don't know why I thought radiator.
The ac condenser is the exact same part number for both vehicles.
Make sure to cap off the compressor and all lines, do not leave them open and sitting.
If you are going to keep the location of the ranger compressor then you will need the ac lines for that configuration that are the ones different from the mazda... The rest if the same can be kept. If neither line will work then you will need to have custom ac lines built.... I have had to have this done quite a few times but I would have no idea where to get that done in your area to be honest.
High side will have the high side fitting, low side will have the smaller low side fitting. They will only connect in the correct configuration so you do not have to worry about mixing them up. You will also need a vacuum pump to suck the system down once it is back together. remember to also flush the system and install a new orifice tube as well.
How did you make out?
I just wanted to make sure you were satisfied as it had looked like you may have retracted your deposit....
It will look like this and be located in a connection of an ac line usually before the dryer
I do know a little about transmissions yes, it will not work correctly if the fluid is too low.
Do you have trans fluid in the coolant or coolant in the trans fluid?
If you have a vacuum line from the engine to the trans please check if that hose/line has transfluid in it which would then be sucked into the engine and burned off.
Sounds good. I'll await your reply.
No, it is a LOT of work. That's why shops charge so much to do it.
That is correct, once you pull the injectors you should always replace the O-rings unless they are new.
Correct in that a lot of parts are going to be different and have to be swapped over to the other motor to work.
Aloha Joe,I'm back!! Hey thanks for being patient with me! Engine is going in but before I do that, I have a question. I tried to time the engine but had a difficult time turning the engine over. This of course is with the transmission attaced.. Is that common? I took the fly wheel off to clean and paint it. I'm not sure if I put it back correctly. All the bolt holes matched. I noticed that there was a number 2 on the fly wheel. Doies that mean anything? Anyway, wish me luck in the installation part. Don't worry I'll take careof you soon.Thanks,Roger
How were you trying to time the motor with it not installed?
Painting the flywheel can sometimes be a bad idea one because no one can see it and two because the paint can sometimes cause clearance issues.
How were you trying to turn the motor over?
You cannot time an engine without the engine running, I suspect you where trying to bring it up to tdc for the timing chain?
Check if the trans linkage is in gear vs in park/neutral.
It should be hard to turn but not so hard that it cannot be done or does not feel right.
I did receive your rating and tip, thank you very much for that.
If the holes line up then it is correct. You can manually move the linkage and then spin the trans tail output shaft to check direction/gear.
The flywheel gets mounted to the motor then the trans converter gets bolted to the flywheel. If anything is binding then you need to separate the motor/trans and see why.