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Joe
Joe, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 6441
Experience:  ASE, electronics, Marine inboards and electronics, automotive drivability, all around repair tech,
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Mazda PU Truck: Remove and replace engine

Resolved Question:

Remove and replace engine:
I also plan to remove the transmission at the same time. I always have to add transmission oil before the gear engages. It's an automatic.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.


Hello,



Thank you for using
justanswer.com, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be happy to assist you with your
concern today.



One thing I always wish to try and do is let you know if
something comes up and I am not able to reply back right away but this is
sometimes something I cannot avoid. I will always try to reply back to you
right away however please understand that I may be busy answering another
customer back and thus it may sometimes take time to reply back to you. As soon
as I return I will be sure to reply back to you as soon as I am able to.


If there are clips on the ac lines it means they require a tool to release them, this tool comes in a kit as well that services ac and fuel lines.

 

If the blocks/heads have the mounting holes then you can swap the accessories and the brackets, if they do not have the same mounting holes then you will have to convert your vehicle to adapt to the location of the new ac compressor and power steering pump.... if you cannot do that for any reason then you will not be able to use that engine.

 

This is the type of tool kit for those lines I was referring to: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ac+fuel+kit&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=ac+fuel+kit+tool&_sacat=0

 

Sometimes some lube like wd 40 or penetrating oil like pb blaster can be sprayed into the connectors to help them come apart, but you still need the tool to release them.

 



If
you need any further assistance you can reply back at any time for my help.

 



Thanks,



Joe



 





Thanks
again for using justanswer / pearl.com and have a great day!



Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Aloha Joe,
Is there a step by step method to remove engine and trans at the same time? Also with examples & photos. I would appreciate that.
Thanks
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

You can remove the engine and trans at the same time however you will need at least 2-3 people as it has to come out at an angle and you have to be careful to not cause damage.

 

Most of the time it is much better to pull them separately if possible.

 

You will want to start by draining the cooling system and removing the radiator and fan assemblies for better access, then remove any accessories in the way and remove the engine harness from the engine along with anything else needing to be remove to remove the motor, you will then go under the truck and disconnect the driveshaft and remove lower bellhousing cover to remove the bolts from the converter to flywheel, and the bolts holding the trans to the engine, along with removing the electrical connecters, and fluid lines, at that time you should undo and remove your exhaust as needed as well. Then remove the trans, once the trans is removed connect the engine to the engine hoist and undo your motor mounts then lift the engine out.

 

Sorry I did not include that info before as I didn't see that in your question.

 

Thanks,

Joe

It is not very complicated just time consuming.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Joe,
I'll try as you have instructed. Can I get back to you later and see how it comes out?
Thanks,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

You can return at ANY time for further help on any questions you may have.

 

You can log into www.justanswer.com into your account under questions to return to me or this is the direct link to your question: http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/7w3eh-mazda-pu-truck-remove-replace-engine.html

 

If you have any problems at all returning or getting back to me you can contact experts@justanswer.com and use that above link they can then get you back in touch with me.

 

If you set up emails you will also have an email for each time I have replied to you that should also include a link back to me/your question.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hey Joe,
I detached fuel & ac lines. It was kinda difficult even with the tool I purchased from NAPA. Shooting it with WD 40 really helped. I'm in the process of taking exhaust bolts off. I also removed crossmember for trans and will have to remove the trans mount as well. Do I have to remove the trans mount too?. I removed the universal joint lock pins but now how do I remove joints? Is this the only joint I have to remove? I'm also working on removing the trans bolts. I removed the starter. A little more and I should be alright.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

Simply remove the two clamps holding the ujoint to the rear yoke then you can drop the driveshaft and slide it out of the back of the trans.

 

You can leave the trans mount mounted to the trans or crossmember your choice.

 

Correct, pull the starter, trans lines, electrical connectors, undo the flywheel to torque converter bolts and then pull all the bolts out of the trans while the trans is supported with a trans jack.

 

You can followup with me at any time.

 



If
you need any further assistance you can reply back at any time for my help.

 



Thanks,



Joe



 





Thanks
again for using justanswer / pearl.com and have a great day!



 

 

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Joe,Exhaust bolts removed. Are the exhaust suppose to drop or should it stay in place? Found that it's sitting on a crossmember so therefore it will not drop. Also, the trans line is very difficult to get to. Should I drop the trans and then take the trans tubings off? Had some difficulty with universal joint. Had to remove the connection from rear end, remove bracket from middle joint and then pull it out from trans. Almost there!! Please be patient with me.Thanks,RogerP.S. there are 2 sensors on each exhaust pipe. Do I remove them?
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

The exhaust will only drop to something that stops it, once it is released from the manifolds the only thing that holds it up is the hangers and thus it can pivot. Once you remove the crossmember you can then drop the exhaust further or completely remove it. (your choice). You need to disconnect the o2 sensor harness connectors before you drop the exhaust or you can damage them or the harnesses.

 

On the driveshaft that is correct, it is removed from the rear diff yoke and then if there is a center pull that then it slides out of the trans.

 

In terms of the trans lines and upper bellhousing to block bolts, you may find it much easier to put the trans on a trans jack, put the jack taunt and then up just a hair to take pressure off it, next remove the crossmember, now slowly lower the trans jack just enough to allow you access to the trans lines and the upper housing bolts. Once everything is disconnected now jack it back up a little bit to where it wont just slide off and remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts, once that is done use the jack in a height position that allows you to slide the trans back and out/off the motor and remove it from the vehicle. A very important note is use the support safety chains on the trans jack so that the trans does not fall off the trans jack.

 

Do not worry, I have no problem continuing to assist you, that is what I am here for.

 

Thanks,

Joe

 

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Joe,
I need to loosen the exhaust pipe. To remove the crossmember where the exhaust is sitting on has a torsion bar that is holding it. Should I do that? It seems like an awful lot of work. I could also remove the exhaust pipe that has the converters on them but am wondering if it will be enough to loosen the pipe. What would you do?
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

I do not show torsion arms on this model, are you sure they are not instead the radius arms? Is there a bolt that goes through the end of them?

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes there's a mlarge bolt at the end. I need to remove 2 bolts on each side, remove the 2 large nuts and try to slide it out. Rog Please send text to my phone XXX XXX XXXX to reply. I'm leaving home now. Thanks

Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

I will see if I can have support change to text but I don't know if I can do that from my end, you may have to do that on your account.

 

Those are the radius arms, not torsion so you can remove the bolts/nuts and slide it off of them, if the bushings are bad make sure to replace them. Its usually connected to the axle/control arm in front.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Joe,Got your message without any problems on my phine. I'll try to do that when I get home.Thanks,Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

Sounds good.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Joe,I removed the bushings in front of the radius arm. Bushings are still good. I also removed the 2 bolts connected to the frame. Tried to hit it with a chisel and hammer and it won't budge. I noticed that there are 2 rounded things (looks like the top of a rounded head bolt) but no bolts that goes through the frame. I was afraid that if I chisel those rounded things out I may damage the cross member. What should I do?Rog
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Those are pretty much steel rivots, you have to grind them off and then to reinstall you drill the holes through the frame to match and mount them with correct grade bolts.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks for the tip Joe. I'll grind it tomorrow and see how came out.
Aloha!!
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

No problem, just let me know if you need any further help.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Joe,
I really struggled with those four bolts today. Not much room to use grinder. I may have to heat the left over part of the rivet as it won't come out from the other side. i used a punch and it won't budget. Anyway, It was much easier to disconnect the sensors from the exhaust & disconnect the fuel lines. I will attempt to pull the engine out with the trans tomorrow. Will let you know how it comes out. Besides covering the rear end of the trans to keep the oil from coming out, is there anything else I should know?
Thanks,
Roger

Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

Not really, you pretty much have it covered. You can pull it out with the trans just like I stated it will be much harder and to prevent damage you really need at least two people. You could drain the trans first to prevent trans fluid from coming out of the tail housing.

 

Your going to have to tilt the motor to get the trans out and to tilt the motor you really have to come far enough forward which sometimes the core support of a vehicle can be in the way.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks. I'll let you know how I did.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

Sounds good, just reply back if you need any further help.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Aloha Joe,
I got the engine half way out of the engine compartment and the hydraulic nhoist is up to the max.. Have to figure a way to set the engine down again and readjust the straps. Will need to remove the crank wheel so I'll have more room. The crank wheel is close to the condenser. By the way do you know if the condenser for the 1994 Mazda the same as the 1991 Ranger?
Anyway, I'm just glad that the engine moved to the front. Almost there buddy!
Aloha,
Rog
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

That is some of the problems I was talking about that you would run into, the motor has to come out even higher then normal with the trans connected and also at an angle, its a huge pain esp if the core/radiator support is still in the vehicle.

 

In terms of the radiator, it is only the same with the automatic transmission, the manual trans uses a different radiator between those two vehicles however one can usually modify it to work.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Joe,
I was talking about the ac condenser. Is Mazda the same with Ranger? As I mentioned before, the ac compresser is on opposite sides. Would I order a 1991 Ranger ac line and condenser? I will continue to work on engine removal. Will keep you posted.
Thanks,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

I am very sorry about that, don't know why I thought radiator.

 

The ac condenser is the exact same part number for both vehicles.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Do I order a 1991 Ranger ac line that runs from the dryer to the condenser? The connection for the Mazda is thicker on the driver side than the passenger side. Which is the high or low side? I'm asking these questions because I'd like to I get the correct parts to repair the ac. So far, condenser, compressor looks good. I need to replace the dryer & the line that runs from the dryer to the condenser.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

Make sure to cap off the compressor and all lines, do not leave them open and sitting.

 

If you are going to keep the location of the ranger compressor then you will need the ac lines for that configuration that are the ones different from the mazda... The rest if the same can be kept. If neither line will work then you will need to have custom ac lines built.... I have had to have this done quite a few times but I would have no idea where to get that done in your area to be honest.

 

High side will have the high side fitting, low side will have the smaller low side fitting. They will only connect in the correct configuration so you do not have to worry about mixing them up. You will also need a vacuum pump to suck the system down once it is back together. remember to also flush the system and install a new orifice tube as well.

 

 

Thanks,

Joe

Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

How did you make out?

 

I just wanted to make sure you were satisfied as it had looked like you may have retracted your deposit....

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hey Joe,
I would never have done anything like that! I finally removed the engine! Luckily the engine stayed in place while I adjusted the strap. I shorted the strap and the hoist and it worked fine. Do you know anything about transmissions? The gear would not engage if the fluid is low. Anyway, I removed the transmission so I can work on the engine better. Have to remove many parts and transfer it to the other engine. Where is the orafice located? I thought it was close to the dryer but don't see a connection there. Will let you know how I do.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

No problems.

 

It will look like this and be located in a connection of an ac line usually before the dryer

 

 

 

 

I do know a little about transmissions yes, it will not work correctly if the fluid is too low.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Joe,
I guess I have to remove the dryer first. The transmission must be leaking oil somehow as trans oil has to be put in all the time. The weird thing is we don't see any oil on the ground. Where is it going?
Thanks,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Do you have trans fluid in the coolant or coolant in the trans fluid?

 

If you have a vacuum line from the engine to the trans please check if that hose/line has transfluid in it which would then be sucked into the engine and burned off.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Joe,
No coolest was found in the trans line. I'll also check the vacuum line after I have my breakfast. I'll let you know the outcome.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

Sounds good. I'll await your reply.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Aloha Joe,
Progressing very slowly but surely. I'm switching fuel injection rail now.. Since I have it out I may as well change the o rings. I will also switch the harness as it is a little different. Will have to also switch the exhaust pipes as the Mazda ones are a little different. Wow!! It's not that easy after all especially when the brands and years of the vehicles are not the same. I will keep you posted though. As far as trans a friend told me that he thinks it's the modulator so I'll check that out. Gotta run for an appointment.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

No, it is a LOT of work. That's why shops charge so much to do it.

 

That is correct, once you pull the injectors you should always replace the O-rings unless they are new.

 

Correct in that a lot of parts are going to be different and have to be swapped over to the other motor to work.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Joe, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 6441
Experience: ASE, electronics, Marine inboards and electronics, automotive drivability, all around repair tech,
Joe and 17 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Aloha Joe,
I'm back!! Hey thanks for being patient with me! Engine is going in but before I do that, I have a question. I tried to time the engine but had a difficult time turning the engine over. This of course is with the transmission attaced.. Is that common? I took the fly wheel off to clean and paint it. I'm not sure if I put it back correctly. All the bolt holes matched. I noticed that there was a number 2 on the fly wheel. Doies that mean anything? Anyway, wish me luck in the installation part. Don't worry I'll take care
of you soon.
Thanks,
Roger
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Aloha Joe,
I'm back!! Hey thanks for being patient with me! Engine is going in but before I do that, I have a question. I tried to time the engine but had a difficult time turning the engine over. This of course is with the transmission attaced.. Is that common? I took the fly wheel off to clean and paint it. I'm not sure if I put it back correctly. All the bolt holes matched. I noticed that there was a number 2 on the fly wheel. Doies that mean anything? Anyway, wish me luck in the installation part. Don't worry I'll take care
of you soon.
Thanks,
Roger

Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

How were you trying to time the motor with it not installed?

 

Painting the flywheel can sometimes be a bad idea one because no one can see it and two because the paint can sometimes cause clearance issues.

 

How were you trying to turn the motor over?

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

With a breaker bar on the front where damper is. Keep in mind that I have the starter attached and I did not add fluid in trans or engine so here's no spillage when I install engine.
Aloha,
Rog

P.S. did you receive my tip and rating?
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

Roger,

 

You cannot time an engine without the engine running, I suspect you where trying to bring it up to tdc for the timing chain?

 

Check if the trans linkage is in gear vs in park/neutral.

 

It should be hard to turn but not so hard that it cannot be done or does not feel right.

 

 

I did receive your rating and tip, thank you very much for that.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

On the linkage, is further back toward the rear in park? It just doesn't feel good. I'm worried that the fly wheel is not in its correct position. That's why I asked if the number (2) on the plate mean anything. All of yhe holes matched up when i bolted it down with a torque of 59 lbs. I would hate to drop in the engine and find out that the trans is not installed properly.
Aloha,
Roger
Expert:  Joe replied 1 year ago.

If the holes line up then it is correct. You can manually move the linkage and then spin the trans tail output shaft to check direction/gear.

 

The flywheel gets mounted to the motor then the trans converter gets bolted to the flywheel. If anything is binding then you need to separate the motor/trans and see why.

 

Thanks,

Joe

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