Land Rover Discovery II SE
We've learned the expensive way that the Land Rover Discovery is made cheaply (?) but the repairs and parts are expensive and is very difficult to work on and to find someone who knows how aside from the outrageous dealer.
I support my disabled brother and can't afford for a dealer to be involved--or for any unnecessary work. He loves this model and can't let it go, and we can't afford another vehicle.
Last Aug, this Discovery began overheating several times, with the gauge slowly showing hotter and hotter. My brother drove it too long and it quit running. We took it to a highly recommended mechanic who did do work on Land Rovers and were told the aluminum sleeves were melted and the engine would need replaced. It was replaced with a 70,000 mile engine along with the power steering pump. The radiator was said to be okay, but a hose was replaced as well.
My brother was driving on the interstate a week ago when the temperature gauge *suddenly* went all the way over as far as it could. He drove it about a mile and it was barely able to go when he found a spot to park.
We had it towed to a good mechanic the family uses, but he doesn't work on Land Rovers. He said he'd try to check it out. (The previous engine mechanic is an hour away and kept it for 2 months.) We hoped this regular mechanic could diagnose the problem first.
This mechanic says when driven, it does become *immediately* hot--gauge going all the way over in just a few minutes. HOWEVER, he let it idle almost an hour and a half with NO overheating at all. (I assume that means there's no blown gasket--except in my head--and no melted sleeves??)
He said he'd seen this one other time when a radiator had a blockage in it. We asked if he could take out the radiator and examine it (without automatically replacing it) but he says he doesn't think it's the radiator on this vehicle. ??
I've used this answer service before successfully and appreciate the expertise here. I count on you, please, to release this question if you don't have the expertise with *this model* because advising as if it were any other model/maker may not be helpful. THANK YOU
Hello, I'm Chris. Thanks for visiting Just Answer.
I am sorry you have had to wait so long for the first contact. Sometimes this happens when the question you ask is not detailed enough or its just hard to address online. Many have viewed your post, but have passed. I am checking to see if you still need help. I am not going to lie, this concern is not my strongest point, but I will do my best to help you. I have access to many repair sites, so at the least I can provide something to address at least part of your concern if it is not something I can address from memory and experience. I mainly work in the last half of the day, so that is when I do all of my responding. If there is anything else you can add to your concern to help me out more so I can help you out in turn please do so in your next reply. Once you get an answer, you will be prompted to rate me. You are rating my help, not the website, or answer. If you feel the need to rate negative, please save the rating so I can try again or find someone whom may be able to help better. Thanks for using our site, we will do all we can to earn your business, again sorry we did not get to you sooner. Chris>>
I appreciate your willingness to check in with me. Is it that there's not enough information provided (I don't know what more to provide)?
--Or the problem is that it is a Discovery with this odd problem?
And I appreciate you saying "this" isn't your strong point--do you mean, I suppose, it being a Land Rover?
Were there to be a mechanic available who was well-experienced with Discovery's and had an answer or a good idea about this, I would gladly pay whatever direct guidance would require because I do not have experienced guidance availble here (small city). I understand the $37 is small exchange for someone who could save me thousands in preventing the junking of this vehicle. But I didn't know how to show that in my question. Or if through your resources, you were to find experienced guidance, I would increase the fee.
Is it possible that if you can't point to an exact answer, you're able to guide on a general process of elimination?
Does the fact that the engine will run for over an hour on idle not tell us the engine is okay?
Given that--aren't other possibilities quite limited ? to radiator? hoses? lines? water pump? IS there any "zebra" possible in the mix you can think of ?
Do you have thoughts on how you would approach it if you had to?
I don't want to take advantage of the small amount of $37--which I will gladly pay just for you not leaving me stranded with no response--but hopefully you can answer these general questions if nothing else--I won't take advantage of your kindness.
Please respond when you conveniently can--being the weekend! Nothing can happen with the Rover till Monday anyway. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Step one is to perform a cylinder compression test to see if any are low below 115 psi and to see if all are within 10% of the min and max reading. If the compression test passes then great, the next thing will be to remove the thermostat and heater core hoses and radiator hoses, then flush the components to clean them out forward and backward as well to verify good flow.
Next reconnect everything with a new thermostat and refill with water only. Let it idle for 15 minutes with the radiator cap off, once at operating temp verify the cooling fan works. Once all air pockets are hot verify it does not overflow coolant. Then raise the rpm to 2000 and run it to see if it overheats. If it still does not overflow nor overheat then cap it off and retest. If it overheats now then odds are its combustion gas getting into the cooling system.
If it does not overheat I then suggest you replace the water pump and clean the radiator and condenser fins with a pressure washer and refill with the correct coolant mix.