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Autotech58
Autotech58, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 709
Experience:  38 years experience in the automotive repair industry with experience with many makes and models.
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Ram: my throttle cuts out while Im driving i have put in a

Customer Question

my throttle cuts out while I'm driving i have put in a new apps sencor still there
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
Hi, my name is XXXXX XXXXX dead pedal is caused by either a bad APPS or a bad injection pump, have you pulled codes for this yet?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

i got engine on ,i did the self manuel one i got code 0629,it only happens when i drive its cuts out but come right back sometime it wont do nothing for a month

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

would reflash help

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

why am i not getting a respone

Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.

i am sorry I lost my internet for an hour, with the code P0629, this is a code for the lift pump circuit, and if it momentatily goes out, it will cause drivability problems, when this happens, does the engine still run, but there is no throttle response?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

engine runs and the throttle come right back,could weak solenoids in the transmission have anything to do with it

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

could the map sencor or iat sencor have anything to do with it

Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
No, if it were the map or IAT, it would have set a code for that, with that code you have it is dealing with the lift fuel pump circuit, and that is most likely causing the cuttinf out, it needs to be addressed first,Tim
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

the code i said was the wrong one sorry i was at a dodge dealer today the diesel machanic said he had one of those trucks in before and he told me to tighten the pins on the conector by the apps i hope hes right the question i have is when i put it on cruise it will shut of as well its an electric throttle and it doesnt move the throttle when i speed up using it by the steering colum im just wondering because the conection by the throttle isnt good it shuts it down anyway

Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
So what was the actual code nimber, you can pull codes your self, if you sit in the drivers seat, you must cycle the key on/off, 3 times, ending in the on position, the codes will appear in the odometer window, where the mileage is?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

yeah i found that out after the code that came up were p0483 and p0480


whats your insight in the cruise/throttle conection

Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
those codes are for a problem with the fan clutch, did you ever have the P0629? why did you originally replace the APPS?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

because of the same problem im having right now

Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
ok, the 480 and the 483 will not cause a drivability problem, was there ever a P0629??
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
no never a code like that
Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
did the problem with the cruise start after you replaced the APPS?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
no it was there right away i have niticed when i gun the pedal hard it wont do just when i cruising on idle or slowly speeding up
Expert:  Tim Mohr replied 1 year ago.
then I am at a loss here, without seeing the data on a scanner, and no codes stored that would indicate a problem, I would be shooting in the dark, I will opt out and see if another expert has any ideas,Tim
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
u dont think it could be a loose wire or bad conection
Expert:  Josie-Mod replied 1 year ago.
Hi, I’m Josie a moderator for this topic. It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you right away, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

I was checking to see if you had already found your answer or if you still needing assistance from an other one of our professionals?

Please let me know if you wish to continue waiting or if you would like for us to close your question.

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Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.

Hi I'm Dave.

 

I see that Tim has opted out and it looks like you did not get a resolution here.

 

I just thought I would mention that the codes you are getting for the engine cooling fan circuits WILL cause the symptoms you are describing. When there is a problem with the engine cooling fan, the PCM can go into "Protect Mode" and will limit throttle response and disable the cruise control. This can be continuous, or it may occur only intermittently.

 

DTC P0480 Fan 1 Control Circuit

DTC P0483 Fan Rationality Check

 

POSSIBLE CAUSES

- Fan clutch

- Wire harness damaged

- Open fan clutch driver circuit

- Driver circuit shorted to return circuit

- Driver circuit shorted to battery negative

- Intermittent condition

- Signal circuit short to 5-volt supply circuit

- Signal circuit open from ECM to fan clutch assembly

- 5-Volt supply CKT open from ECM harness connector to fan clutch harness connector

- Signal circuit shorted to return in the harness

- Signal circuit shorted to voltage

- Signal circuit in ECM shorted to ground inside ECM

- Signal circuit shorted to voltage in the ECM

- 5-Volt supply circuit in ECM

 

 

Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.

Hi again.

 

Just following up to see if you still need assistance with the issues you are experiencing with your truck.

 

If so please let me know how I can assist you further.

 

If not, I would like to thank you for your business and hope you have gotten your truck running perfectly again.

 

-Dave (Autotech58)

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will put a new clutch in a report back to u
Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.

Hi again.

 

I did not mean for you to simply go out and replace your fan clutch. Your fan clutch is an "electro-hydraulic" controlled fan clutch. The problem could be mechanical (fan clutch needs to be replaced) it could be hydraulic (solenoid sticking, not enough hydraulic pressure, etc.) or it could be electrical (solenoids and wiring that control it).

 

This really should be properly diagnosed before replacing any parts. Otherwise, it could very easily turn out that replacing the parts is a total waste of time, money, and effort. I would not want you to go to the expense of replacing your fan clutch, then be angry toward me if it does not fix your problem.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
As far as I know the fan clutch does not work so I have to replace it but when your talking about soilinoid which soilinoid are u talking about
Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you DIAGNOSE the falt codes you are getting before going out and spending any money on parts. The whole point of diagnosis is to find out WHICH PARTS (if any) need to be replaced. There is no sense in replacing parts if you do not know for sure that the parts you are replacing are the actual CAUSE of the problem. That could end-up being just a total waste of money.....money that you will probably need to fix the actual problem.....

 

I am at my "day-job" right now and cannot work on this right at the moment, but when I get home this evening, I can put a PDF file together for you with the diagnostic trobeshootoing charts for the codes you are getting, so you will understand what I am talking about.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok that would be great I'm been working on this for 2 months now
Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.

Yes, I know this problem has been ongoing for quite a while. Your question has actually "timed out" for ay least, the second time. If you need more time, you can request that the question be "reopened".

 

Just so you know, you can still return to this thread and ask any "follow-up" questions that you may have about this same issue AT NO EXTRA CHARGE - even if you have "Accepted" my answer and "Rated" the service I have provided for you.

 

Anyway, I "mis-spoke" when I mentioned the "hydraulic" system and the "control solenoid" for your fan clutch. After looking at the service information again, I found that your fan is not one of the fans that hydraulic pressure to turn it like some of the newer vehicles. It DOES use an electronically-controlled viscous clutch however, and the PRINCIPLE that I have been trying to get across to you remains the same.

 

YES, you MAY have a defective fan clutch assembly. However, I do not recommend going out and buying one simply based on the codes that you are getting. Diagnostic Test Codes (DTCs) NEVER tell you which parts to replace. They only tell the technician diagnosing the vehicle WHICH DIAGNOSTIC CHART to use to get the problem diagnosed correctly. Properly following the instructions in the diagnostic test charts is how you go about figuring out which part of the system or circuit is causing the problem, and therefore which parts, if any, need to be replaced. The problem we are talking about on your truck could turn out to be a simple wiring repair.

 

Please download the PDF file HERE

 

Please note that the file will be deleted from the file server in a few days due to copyright restrictions, so you might want to save a copy to your computer for future reference.

 

I included the diagnostic test charts for BOTH of the codes that you posted. However, you probably will not need both of them to get your truck fixed.

 

First, note in the first diagnostic chart (for P0480) that I "highlighted" the possible causes for that code. As you can see, the fan clutch it self is listed, but there are also a lot of other possibilities listed. Using this chart will help you to determine which of the possibilities is the actual problem.

 

The second chart (for P0483), if you read step 1, sends you right back to the chart for P0480. (I highlighted that for you as well). So, you will want to start with P0480 in your diagnosis. Chances are that if you fix the problem that is causing P0480, the other code will go away on its own.

 

Pretty much ALL of the diagnostics here can be done with a simple digital multimeter. No high-dollar scan tool needed, like in some diagnostic routines....

 

The part where is says to go to "Powertrain Verification Test - Ver-1" simply means to clear the fault codes and drive the vehicle to see if the code returns. I figured you should be able to handle that OK on your own, so I did not include those instructions in the file.

 

Please remember to take a moment to rate the service I have provided. That is the ONLY way I get any credit at all for the effort I have put into this. Please also remember that you can still come back to this thread and ask any follow-up questions if you need to, as long as they are directly related to the subject of this thread.

 

I hope this helps you to finally get this issue resolved.

 

Happy Motoring!

 

-Dave (Autotech58)

Autotech58, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 709
Experience: 38 years experience in the automotive repair industry with experience with many makes and models.
Autotech58 and 4 other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

sorry i dont know how to manually clear them i know how to retreave but i ussually went to a shop and they cleared them

Expert:  Autotech58 replied 1 year ago.
The code reader that you are retrieving codes with should be able to clear/reset the codes. Check the instructions that came with your code reader.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

i put the fan clutch in the old one was shot, i didnt fix the problem so my mechanic brought my truck to the dodge dealer and they found the problem,turned out to be a loose wire by the pam

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