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with the key in the on position but not turning over the test light is on, on both sides of coil
turning the motor over the light goes dim and bright
have taken a coil from my other running car with the same result
without turning the motor over 11.78
Sorry but not sure as to the pick up coil inside distributor, as the only thing that i can see inside the distributor is the rotor button,
have replaced cap and rotor
Perhaps you're looking at the shield under the rotor? Your distributor should be like the one depicted in this graphic:
sorry that is not the type of distributor on these cars all three have a similar type distributor.
No vacuum advance unit or pick up coil assembly. or anti flash shield.
part nos 4199od
OK. 3.6L. Have you checked if the Tachometer reads at least 200 RPM as the engine cranks? If not, either the signal from the Crank Sensor is bad, or the wiring between it and the ECU, or the ECU itself is faulty. If you have access to another ECU, swap it and retest. Another thing, you said the test light went dim and bright when testing the Negative side of the primary circuit. It should flicker ON and OFF. Also, try another high tension coil wire; connect it to the coil and place the other end about 3/16" from a good ground. Is there a strong spark?
have taken the coil off and have had it checked out it is ok.
can not get a reading on the reves as there is no reading on the tachometer on the dash have changed the crank sensor and the first part of lead over,with a spare
Are you recomending that i change the lead from the coil to the distributor?
The ECU is out of a car that runs only have the one
The tachometer receives its signal from the Negative side (-) of the coil; was it working before this happened? If it was, the Ignition Amp may be at fault now. Try swapping it with the one from your other car. If that doesn't work, try a new lead (high tension wire) from the coil and test for spark as previously indicated.
Have checked all the above all wires read ok, have tried a different ECU and the other unit next to it.
There is a red relay unit have tried to buy pass this as it appeared not to respond
Are the injectors working as the engine cranks?
any advice on how to check?
Missed that one.
Have purchased a noid light
There is no responce from the light on the injector, have previously changed the ECU unit from the car that runs with no difference.
when buying the noid light also purchased a new battery
no further responce may this be due to the battery having been taken in and out over time
it would appear so
I was given it when i purchased another jag the same model which was and is licensed and on the road but is rusty in the boot and needs the rust removed other wise it runs well this is a 1989 this car if it all works out is to be sold in time.
The problem fee car is a 1988 i am told it has a crook motor head, the coil the amplifier and a silver box near the ECU had been taken off the car as well as a head light.This car it has been my aim to regester and keep due to its good appearance. i wanted to get the motor to at least run before doing the repairs on the engine as i thought that by not doing so i would have far to many problems
i then purchased another jag the same model but different year 1992 unlicensed running after i replaced the large rubber boot near the injector bar not sure what it is called this car i have now nearly stripped looking at wiring etc
What I can't understand is if you have replaced the components that make the engine start and run. Why is there no spark at the plugs or pulse at the injectors? My suspicion is that some of the parts are not exactly the same number, and therefore can't be exchanged from one vehicle to the other, especially the ECU. Let's start at the beginning: the usual cause of this problem is either the Ignition Amplifier or the Crank Sensor. You can test them both with a meter. First, the Ignition Amplifier; you should have Battery power on the White/Pink, ground at the Black, 5 volts with the Key ON on the White/Green, a pulsed signal from ECU on White/Red, and the White/Black is the coil trigger. For the crank sensor you should have ground on the Blue wire and a pulsed AC voltage signal on the Red wire when cranking.
I wish I was there by your side getting my hands dirty. Keep me posted.