Ask a Car Mechanic and Get Answers to Your Car Questions ASAP
Thanks for the answer, I found it pretty helpful. I can stop looking for the relay now!
Hoping you can steer me towards wether it is a wire issue, BCM or door actuator.I put a voltmeter on the plug to the driver door actuator and got varying levels, seemingly with door position, ranging from .5V to 11.5V. I was able to get consitent volt readings above 10V in a certain door position, when I re-plugged the door actuator wiring (whilst depressing door open switch) I was unable to ever get the door actuator to fire open or close. (does this mean that door actuator is definetly failed, or should I confirm by running a wire direct to actuator to check operation?) However, both the remote (on the key) and hard switch (on door console would only open or close 2 doors (back right and front left, no activity on other 2). After about 8 lock and unlock repeats, no doors would open/close. I disconnected battery briefly, after which front left and rear left doors open and close OK. Does this point to a faulty BCM, since I had not touched any doors, other than driver's door (front right), meaning that any dodgy wiring had not been disturbed. If I can get the drivers door actuator to fire with bridging wire straight from battery, do I look for faulty wire in that door rubber boot or is it the BCM? The fact that the system only does 2 doors, but varies between rear left and rear right, does this mean faulty BCM or can a faulty wire and or door actuator cause the BCM to operate intermittently as described?
Thanks for that, happy with service. Will rate to finish