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My 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GTS has been reccently throwing codes: P0171, P0174 which are new, and this one has been throwing about couple months before the other ones: P0660. I keep hearing clicking sound also at idle and everytime the car starts to click near the intake manifold in a black device where two fairly medium sided hoses attach to to the intake manifold where the air filter hose attaches to. The cars RPM would start to idle up and down. Up when it clicks and goes down after clicking, Idle is roughly around 700 to 800 RPM varying. I reccently changed all my sparks plugs and i was having a cylinder 2 missfire and really bad acceleration on highway speeds. I checked the resistance on the wires and they were fine and in ranged except on cylinder 2. I saw the conductive coating on the spark plug wire was burned and was turning to a black powder and so i changed all my Spark plug wires and fixed that problem. I also had a code P0430 before i changed my spark plugs and wires, but not anymore. So now my question is how do i fix the codes P0171, P0174 and P0660? I know what they all mean, but how do i fix them? The first two codes mean both bank 1 and bank 2 of my fuel system is too lean and the other is my intake manifold tuning valve circuit is open. What can i do to determine what is faulty and how can i fix this? PS: I had to unplug some vacuum tubes and accidently unplugged ones that didnt need to be unplugged while changing 1,3,5 spark plugs and might have placed them wrong. I might need a diagram for both sides of the engine for the vacuum hoses. Maybe i missplaced a hose and it is causing this? Thank you.
I will go and test the sensors in a little bit. i work from 11 to 4pm pst. I will get back with my findings. Thank you so much.
After driving my car about for 30 minutes, after taking off the intake manifold from replacing the spark plug wires and spark plugs my Check engine light went off and the codes were cleared by themselves. I believe the It needed time to readjust because the vacuum hoses i took off before. I really do appreciate for helping me. Oh, i also checked the wiring and checked the ohms and the volts the sensors were producing and they were all in range from the recommendation that my manual gives.
Ok...... The codes came back... I even went to CanObd2.com and connected my reader and it reccomended to change my MAF Sensor. The readers says: P0171, P0174, P0660, P0421. The reader tells me what they are and what they mean, but i am unable to find the problem, i might have to replace an O2 sensor anyways for the P0421 code for Bank one on the number 1 cylinder side, but the other stuff is stumping me still. After all the testing too, but the Variable Induction Control selenoid i haven't tested yet, just the MAF selenoid and that tested good and i also used MAF sensor cleaner i got from the part store. Still throwing code.
No, i had to test the sensor with a voltmeter. My scantool only allows code reader. I tested Terminal #4 and measured 12.11Volts and book says 12Volts. #3 Terminal 5.05Volts and books says between 4.8 to 5.2Volts. I then checked Terminal #5 and measured with Ohms and book tells me it has to be below 2 Ohms and it measures 45 Ohms. It said if it didn't measure below 2 Ohms then to check terminal. This is all i was able to get. It told me to test with engine off, so i did. Another note, am i checking the right terminals? Because it is called Volume Airflow Sensor, not Mass Airflow Sensor and also looks like my Intake Air Temperature Sensor is also located on the Volume Airflow Sensor. The book tells me to check those terminals and i did. Do you think the 45 Ohms may be causing this problem for the codes since it said it has to be below 2 Ohms with engine off?
Okay, Thank you. I will be going to the part store and ordering a new VAF Sensor. I will report if this fixes the problem. Thank you.
Okay, I ordered a new Volume Airflow Sensor, It's the same as the Mass Airflow Sensor and also has the Intake air temperature sensor, so i got two in one. however, i cleared the codes and after about 10 miles, they came back after installing the new sensors. I checked the resistance when i unplugged the harness from the Sensor and checked to make sure its not a faulty ECM/PCM and it was in range from what the book specified. I do however notice that while my car is at idle. It fluctuates up and down, it never did this until the codes. I keep hearing a clicking noise everytime it happens and sounds like the solenoid that connects to two hoses. One that goes to the intake and one that dissapears into the firewall. My guess its the purge solenoid. I am a novice at this and could be wrong though. The codes i do remember came as this clicking started and was pretty loud, but only if i open the hood i can hear it. I also see that everytime it clicks, the idle would fluctuate. While my car is warming up, it doesn't do any of this until after its fully warmed up, then the clicking noise comes and idle will fluctuateup and down. I connected my ipad with and elm adapter to my obdII and gave me minimal live data with dash command as an app. My RPM fluctuates up and down getting to almost 500 up to almost 800 RPM while the solenoid is clicking.