just got motor rebuilt and trans back in. ran just fine for 50 miles. Now as a clicking noise and check engine light is flashing. It is my buddies vehical so i cant read codes anytime soon. I am concern he didn't get a ring in right. during the 50 mile run it started out with a little blue smoke, but at the end of run there was none. now he say's the blue is back. He feels the power steering pump is bad, I dont want to tell him what I think. Another issue is he says it runs fine till the thermostat opens and then the engine bogs down. Any ideas?
I know there is not a lot to go by, this is all i have too, sorry.
it is common sometimes for a new engine to puff some blue[oil] smoke when it is first fired up
sense it does blow out black smoke
nice to see you again.
and..runs rough after it is warm
yes rough after warmed up
i really wish i could get the codes
it sounds as if the ect[engine coolant tempeture sensor may be bad
okay, any idea on the noise
this would cause it to flood with fuel after it gets warm..thus blowing the black smoke and choking the engine
i heard it over the phone it sounded like a ticking, but he says it is like a bearing squal
oh hold on, there not any black smoke just blue
now the noise would be really hard for me to diagnose sense you nor me can hear it.
you say he says he thinks it is black
this would also explain why it runs bad ater it is warm
noise on front of motor, not there when started, but appears when engine warms up.
I got him on the phone right now
also, he says the engine losses power when the noise starts
does it run well when cold,,before it gets warm?
yes, runs great when cold
starts losing power as it warms up
i think it is flooding
perhaps from the ect sesor
this may cause the missfire//
okay, where be this sensor?
most times when the engine light flashes,,it is a miss fire,,300 code
you stated a missfire and my budy did too
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) SensorREMOVALNOTE: Care must be taken when handling the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. Damage to the ECT sensor will affect proper operation of the fuel injection system. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Drain the radiator coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling Cooling System in Engine Cooling.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector.
4. Remove the ECT sensor from the coolant crossover.INSTALLATION 1. Apply sealer or the equivalent to the threads of the ECT sensor. 2. Install the ECT sensor in the coolant crossover.
Tighten the ECT sensor to 30 N.m (22 lb ft.).
3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Fill the radiator with coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling Cooling System in Engine Cooling. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
from the way you explain the problem,,,
it sounds as if your problem is here
though you do need to scan it and get the codes
before doing anything
okay, he says "Yes Sir"!
i hope he gets it going
He has a trans question too
care to take a crack at it?
lets have it
okay, its a 5 speed manual
when he starts out he can shift threw all 5 gears.
5th is a little hard to get into but it does go into gear
now, here is the issue 3 and 4 now has disappeared.
he cant down shift back to them
??/,,does the shifter move?
unless he stops for a least 45 seconds they reappear.
he cant shift into them at all
untill 45 is up
so,,the shifter doesnt move when he tries to shift?
correct. he can go 1,2,5, and reverse
but no 3 and 4
ok..this is kinda strange...
i think he may just need to bleed the clutch
tell hm to bleen the hydrolic system
well, it has a new slave cylinder.
yes,,but,,it still may have air in the system
It is very strange but he will give it a try.
i would think it will fix that problem
1. Check the level of clutch fluid in the reservoir and replenish if necessary. 2. Bleeding the slave cylinder. 1. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw and wipe clean the bleeder screw. Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder screw and insert the other end of the vinyl tube into a transparent container.
2. Pump the clutch pedal repeatedly and hold it depressed. 3. Loosen the bleeder screw to release clutch fluid with air bubbles into the container, then tighten the bleeder screw immediately. 4. Release the clutch pedal carefully. Repeat the above operation until air bubbles disappear from the clutch fluid being pumped out into the container. During the bleeding operation, keep the clutch fluid reservoir filled to the specified level. Reinstall the rubber cap.
okay. thank you.
you are very welcome
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Giving an update, the rodeo started blowing black finally.the harmonic balancer came lose too. Because he cant run codes or retighten balancer he towed it to a delership and they tryed to run codes and are backing out for they could not pull codes. Could you help out somemore on this. I'll be by rodeo in a few weeks. If you can give me an ask new question I'll get back to you. Thank you