I have an 05 XL7 with all 4wd indicators and switches flashing. It is the pushbutton style 4wd. It had codes in it for the front axle actuator circuit and the 4wd switch circuit. Following Suzuki's diagnostic routines led to "replace 4wd control module with known good module and retest" We've done that (new Suzuki module and front diff actuator from the dealer) with no success. The two codes in question (c1213 and c1233) either will not clear or are resetting as they clear, im not sure which. The switch resistances are proper, as measured from the control module end of the harness (~985 ohm and .3 ohm, on and off for all 3 switches). The module seems to have good powers and grounds (disconnected, the harness is supplying within a half volt of system voltage, grounds are about 1.8 ohm resistance to battery post, but a shunt right to battery post changes nothing). As far as I can test them, I see what I expect on the other inputs/outputs. I I don't believe I have weak pin contact. I would like to check that in the datastream, but I do not have a factory scan tool and am extracting codes via the flashing light method. Research comes up bone dry for similar faults or TSBs. Any thoughts?
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Let me do some checking.
I'll be back with you.
Any news yet?
I found a similar instance:
4WD is inoperative. Has a front axle lock actuator motor circuit open code C1233. Clears the code and the C1233 code comes back in about 5 seconds and the 4X4 light flashes. Stays in 2WD. Never shifts into 4WD. The front axle lock actuator was physically broken and has been replaced. Can operate the front axle lock actuator motor from the 4WD control module connector - applies power and ground and the motor goes one way and reverses the power and ground and the motor goes back the other way. There is never any voltage sent out to the front axle lock actuator motor from the 4WD control module and the code resets. The 4WD control module powers and grounds are good.
1. Check the 4WD control module connections for being clean and tight and verify there is not a spread out terminal
2. Replace the 4wd control module
That being said:
Can you cycle the actuator with your own power & ground?
We need to verify the signals to & from the control module.
I am going to look up test procedures for this and send them to you.
Do you have a multi meter?
-Can you cycle the actuator with your own power & ground?
I will answer that tomorrow morning.
-We need to verify the signals to & from the control module.
Powers and grounds are good. Resistances for 4x4 signal switches are good. Resistance accross transfer case motor and front diff actuator seem appropriate, but I didn't see a spec. anywhere. The other wires are communication wires from other modules.
-I am going to look up test procedures for this and send them to you.
I have been using Shopkey (Mitchell On Demand).
-Do you have a multi meter?
Alright - you're going to make me sweat here, aren't you?
I'm now gonna throw My Mitchell out the door and roll up my sleeves - you're ahead of me on this one.
What kind of scanner are you using?
I'm going to go kick a dealer friend out of bed - hang tight - or if you figure it out first - let me know what it was!
Talk to you soon,
You've probably already did this testing but if you could retest & give me the results, I NEED to get up to speed.
Is it in good condition?
We're going to be looking for any commonalities in the wiring for these two codes /// Both have to do with voltage & current / resistance testing is the easiest way to get led down the "Garden Path"
We need to measure voltage and possibly lab scope - lab scope depends on if the condition occurs ith the engine running or not -???
Sorry for not replying quicker. These are the diagnostic trees from Shopkey and I went through them twice before asking the original question. Right now, I have to wait until the end of the week before I can get another crack at the vehicle. So, this project is on hold for a couple days. I don't want to close the project up without a final solution. Will update, hopefully on Friday.
No problem - happens to me all the time.
Since you already changed the module - it JUST HAS TO BE a wiring/voltage/resistance issue
I'll wait to hear from you-- have a great weekend!
Ok, sorry about the delay. I was thinking pin fitment issues, and I wanted to see what the 4WD "saw" on my suspect circuits. I didn't have the Suzuki scan tool so I had to send it out.
Here's the low down: The front differential is mechanically messed up. Something is busted in there. As a consequence there is no mechanical resistance to the front axle actuator motor. When the vehicle powers up it cycles the actuator and checks current. With no mechanical resistance, the current draw is low. At this point it throws the circuit fault code for the front actuator, and refuses to actuate it again.
As far as the switch fault, it would seem that the procedure for clearing codes manually wasn't working, and the dealer scan tool was required.
It would be nice if Suzuki would publish the amperage specifications. Maybe I'm just sour for missing the mechanical fault.
Ah Jeez Ted,
We were on the right path - it WAS a resistance issue but not exactly what I thought!
I Learned something new here too - so no mechanical resistance and it throws the actuator circuit fault and shuts down the system?
Was there ANY indication of a mechanical malfunction?
Did it even engage the front diff enough to HEAR a noise or did it happen fast enough to shut it down without an audible clue?
Part of the reason I decided to participate in this forum was not only to help people on here but also to further my knowledge for my own shop here in WI but I think this one is one I might well never use again.
I called a buddy at Suzuki - he's been there 20 years and while never seeing this himself - when I told him what you found, he shook his head and said:
"That DOES make sense - but if I never heard anything - I would have never found it until I had replaced the whole system with known good parts"
No audible clue. We were aware there was a mechanical issue with the differential, but after consultation with the customer we reccomended fixing the electronics first because there would be no way of verifying proper mechanical operation without a working control system. Seemed like the right idea at the time. Turns out we put the cart before the horse.
As it is, the customer accepts that we have fixed the control side like we said we would, and is saving money to return for the mechanical repair.
Well, I am glad he is content with your service and thanks for letting me know!
This one was kinda weird in that the mechanical issue would shut down the electrical side.
Let me know if you ever need help again.
Ted, it was a pleasure working with you!!