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No, I need to know the where the relay is located?
the relay is in the fuse box in the driverside kick panel under the dash, I will post a picture showing its location, you need to swap the heater/ac relay with one of the other relays there and see if you get power to the C-19 with the key on, can you do this?
I switched the heater relay with the power window relay and with the key on there is still no power to c19 fuse
I tested all four spots where the heater relay plugs into, one spot had 12.7V and one had .72V and the two others and 0V. I tested the other two relays and both had two spots that had 12.7V, and two that had 0V
I know the blower system is working. I just tested it by jumping another wire in the fuse box to c19 fuse. What do you think?
ok, then this is going to be the problem, you need 12 volts at 2 of the terminals, one of these terminals gets its power from the starter relay, and one of them gets its power from the 80 amp main fuse, can you first check the main fuse?
The 80 amp main fuse is good.
There are six prongs, four on the outside and two in the center. The one in the very center has 12v. The one in the outside center has .72v. All of the other ones have 0v. This was checked with the key on.
The only numbers on the relay are on the side on a sticker and do not correlate with the prongs. Do I have to take apart the fuse box to look underneath?
you may have to, but first, lets check the white wire with a green stripe at the alternator, this is the wire that supllies voltage through the starter relay for the heater relay, see if it is the one with only .72 volts,Tim
When looking at the alternator, I found that the belt was in pieces. I will change out the belts, but do you think this is the problem or do I need to keep looking?
Took me a moment, I had to remove the wheel. The white/green wire has .72v.
With the key on, the c-10 fuse has 12v.
I am not sure I understand. With the fuse pulled, I can test both sides of the fuse housing and one side has 12v and the other side 0v. With the fuse in and the key on, the battery light does come on. Does this answer your question?
With the key on the heater relay has 2 terminals with 0v and one with 12v and the other with .72v. Yes we can continue when you get home.
I am watching the email. Did you get the last message about the heater relay terminals?
I had the alternator tested, and it tested out fine. I am going to put the new belt on and see what happens. I will let you know.
I tested it and it started out at 0.8v, but as I held the tester to it, it randomly fluctuated all over the place and went as high as 11.7v and stayed there.
Did you check this with the wire disconnected from the alternator or with it hooked up?
With the wire disconnected.
With the alternator hooked up, the heater relay has .72v.
With the alternator unhooked, 12v.
I called O'Reilly's, which is where I had the alternator tested. They said they use an OTC tester model 4643, which tests the output, rectifier, diodes, and regulator. The OTC tester has a program for specific parameters for that alternator.
What you are not understanding is you have the correct voltage on that wire with the alternator disconnected, so it can only be a problem with the altermator,Tim