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Hello I will help you with your question,
Remove the valve cover and there are flats on the camshaft to hold while you loosen the sprocket bolts.
The flats are just behind the first cam bearing cap.
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No the caps stay on to steady the cam shaft then place an open end wrench on the flats just behind the first cam cap to hold the cam then you can remove the bolt. Intake first.
The diagram of the wrench placement is below.
Click here for diagram
Look this over and let me know how I can help
Awesome. Thank you for the diagram. The largest wrench I have is 19mm and it doesn't seem to be large enough. Do you know the size for the exhaust gear flat? I used a screwdriver for the intake because of the holes it worked well but the exhaust has long holes that don't really work for leveraging.
Awesome. I bought a 24mm wrench because my crescent was too fat. I can't find a loosening sequence on the camshaft bearing caps. Can you provide me with one? I also don't know if I turn them in pairs, one after another. I read to do half turns though.
Use the diagram below and do it in reverse, this is the tightening diagram. Do both bolts on each cap and run through the whole sequence three time loosening a little each time so you don't rip the threads out.
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There are three star bolts attaching the steel cam belt cover backing thing to the head right by the engine support mount of the left side. The third bolt I cannot get to because of the engine mount is in the way. Is there an easier way to get it off that I don't know of? Thanks
You mean these bolts?
Can you just remove the mount?
Yes those are the bolts. The middle top one is the problem. I have removed the mount that holds the engine on to the frame for support. The engine is supported with wood blocks. But the part of the mount that's attached to the engine is in the way of that bolt.
The mount has three bolts that you can remove and then you can remove the backing plate
So, can you tell me if it matters if the tappets (I think that's what they are called) have to go into the same spots? Because I won't be able to put mine back in the same spots unfortunately. Thank you
The lifters are hydraulic and not selected by thickness but be prepared for them to be noisy for an hour or more when you first start it up. I had to run one for over four hours before I could get it to quiet down.
You can mix the lifters but try to put them back where you got them from if possible.
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Is it good to clean and scrape the head surface just like you scrape and clean the block surface before putting on new head gasket? I think the head is aluminum and it's recommended to get it machined, but my head gasket wasn't in too bad of shape. There wasn't any coolant in the cylinders. The radiator was changed awhile back because it was bad and had overheated. I guess I'm asking what is okay to do. Just clean and reassemble with new gasket?
Yes, you use a razor blade to scrape it clean and try not to gouge the surface. It needs to be clean and dry to seal well.
The head is aluminum and it should be sent out to be cut flat and have the valves done. This is about $125 - $150 but it can save you a lot of work if you were to put a warped head back on with the valves leaking. The machine shop will want to disassemble the lifters and clean them but if they were not making noise I don't like them to do this so I just send the head without the lifters.
If you overheated the head should be machined.
Please let me know what questions you have so I can help you
As long as you have the head off you want to clean up the seats and cut the valves so they seal like new. You don't want to go through all this work without having the best chance for a positive outcome.
I don't know how many miles you have on this but if it is more than 30,000 you need to have the valves ground to let them seal well. Hopefully you wont have to touch them for another 100,000 miles but it would be a shame to have to pull the head again in 20,000 miles because a valve was not sealing.
Hello again. The head shop finally got my head back to me after losing it for a week. So now I am trying to bleed the hydraulic lifters (or tappets I think called). I've read that you have to take em apart and use diesel fuel to clean. Is this the only way to stop them from being spongy? Do you have good instructions for bleeding them?
You put the lifters under oil and squeeze them with your fingers while using a plastic or wooden stick to push in the ball valve in the side of the lifter. Keep pumping them until all the air is worked out.
You may still hear some noise when you start the engine but eventually the air will work out if you keep changing the engine speed. It might take an hour or more so be patient, nothing is being damaged when you hear the clatter.
The head bolts can be torqued down to 18 ft lbs and then 3 turns of 90 degrees without using the angular torque gauge KM-470-B, right?
And same question regarding torquing the intake camshaft gear bolt.
Yes on the head bolts, 18 ft lbs to get them started then work in circles out from the center 1/4 turn at a time repeating three times.
The cam gear is a little harder as you need to torque to 37 ft lbs then 60 degrees further then 15 degrees.
Let me double check that for you as that seems too tight.
Yes that is correct on the cam sprocket so if you can gauge 15 and 60 degrees you don't need the angle gauge. They are available at most autopart stores for about $25.
So I am putting the timing belt back on. I could not get off the external pulley that the serpentine belt goes around. There is a green mark on the inside of that pulley, which is connected to the camshaft pulley. I am trying to get the timing of the camshaft perfect. What position does the green mark have to be at or does it not have anything to do with the timing of the camshaft behind it? I don't think I would be able to get that pulley off because a hex bolt seems to be somewhat stripped. Please help.
I don't think the green mark has anything to do with the timing, If you mark the crank gear when you have it aligned with the mark at the bottom of the timing case you can look at it from the top so you don't have to stand on your head to see the mark.
I'm not sure how you will see the mark on the gear with the drive pulley still bolted to it but you can put a feeler down the #1 spark plug hole and measure when the piston is at the top of it's travel then make your marks so you can see them. I use one of the rails out of a wiper blade but anything that is stiff and you can mark will work.
If I dont get it perfectly aligned on the camshaft pulley, whats the worst that can happen?
You want to get it perfectly aligned, there is no reason the marks should be off after you turn the crank through the two revolutions after installing the belt.
Mark the crank so you have something to look at by feeling when the #1 piston is at the top of its travel and then use the cam marks. Sometimes it seems the cams are 1/2 tooth off but if you try to set them a few times they will all come back to their marks when you turn the crank two times.
They started life lined up and you can make them do it again.