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No. The a/c belt is off but I haven't removed the crankshaft pulley yet. I thought maybe i should leave that belt on while I attempt to loosen the bolts holding it on.
Regular Voyager , 3.0 V6 engine
Ok. Again, I am working out of the Haynes manual instructions and where I'm at now is trying to establish TDC for piston # XXXXX so that I can proceed. I'll be happy once the entire job is finished and the engine is running smoothly again, but I know this will take some time.
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Thank you for your advice. I do finally have the timing belt covers off. I have not yet drained the cooling system as I wanted to wait until I could see the timing belt and water pump. Would you advise that I go ahead and drain it now before removing the belt?
Also, do I need to line up the timing marks on the 3 sprockets with their corresponding marks on the outside edges of the inner covers before removing the old belt? If so, how do I turn them now that the camshaft pulley and bolt are off? Thank you.
Thanks for your advice so far. I had an OEM spring shipped in and got the new water pump and timing belt tensioner pulley on. The water pump was a struggle because it did not want to align with and slide on to the water pipe. With considerable force and moving it around my wife and I finally got it on and it's now bolted firmly into place as per the torque specs.
The crankshaft sprocket came off quite easily, so I thought I'd replace the crankshaft front oil seal at this time, too. The manual says use a screwdriver to pry it out. I tried this unsuccessfully and I'm worried that if I use more force I might end up with a damaged, leaking seal that I still can't get out.
I wanted to do this because there was enough of an accumulation of oil & grit built up inside at the bottom of the timing belt case that it was almost touching the timing belt itself and I thought that would be bad but that a new seal would stop any further leakage.
Should I give up on replacing this seal or just apply more force with the screwdriver to pry it out? Or is there a special seal removal tool I should get? What would you do?
Thanks. I couldn't get the seal off that way, but was able to get it off by going in around the outside edge. So that's replaced, as is the timing belt, water pump, pullies back on, new drive belt & tensioner (I broke the old one ) installed, a/c bracket & compressor back on, engine support plate & motor mount re-installed and p/s pump & a/c tensioner pulley reconnected. The a/c hasn't worked for years and that belt was bad, so I didn't bother to re-install that - I figure it's just dead weight, anyway. I have refilled the cooling system and will monitor the coolant level once the engine is up and running. I have installed new plugs, a new distributor cap & rotor and cleaned up and reinstalled the wires. The oil is a bit low and should be changed anyway, so I'm thinking I'll do that now before attempting to start the engine. Any other advice before I turn the key?
The engine runs but seems a little noisier (just clicks and clacks more loudly) than before. It did sit on TDC for quite some time, so I wonder if it didn't like that. I plan to do test drive a little later...
Thanks. I changed the oil and the vehicle sounded fine during two test drives this evening. But something new has developed: during slow turns I'm getting some unusual vibration up the steering column accompanied by a sort of groaning noise. I wonder if the p/s pump didn't like being unbolted from and reattached to the bracket (which I had to do to remove an engine support plate blocking access to the timing belt). I didn't notice any fluid leakage from the p/s pump during this project - might I have over- or under torqued the nut attaching the threaded stud on the p/s pump to the bracket? What should I do about this?