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Yes, tried "Quick Start" and nothing. Not even a peep. Also, when the ignition switch is on, we have power to the primary circuit of the coil, both in and out to ground. Lastly, there is a small spark when we reconnect the battery ground cable. Have a good day.
Yes, we can hot wire the coil by removing the coil connector and running a positive lead from the battery with the negative side connected to ground. Is this what you mean? The coil was supposedly checked by the supply house (as was the modulator) to make sure they were in spec. When we turned the ignition switch on, both ends of the coil's primary circuit powered the test light brightly which implied no issue.
When we last installed the newest coil, newest modulator and tried to start the engine, it almost started and then nothing. Our impression was that the modulatory had been cooked. Do you have any simple way(s) of checking &/or bypassing the modulator to see if that helps?
Are you referring to the rectifier in the alternator? If that part was faulty wouldn't it have a negative effect on the battery, or the lighting or something else? How can we check the rectifier?
Your comments seem to imply that there is no other control, electronic or electrical device which could have any effect on the ignition system; meaning, if the distributor, coil and modulator are within spec. the system should work. No further discussion needed. Correct?
Per your instructions, we hot wired the coil. After removing the connector, we attached the positive to positive & negative to ground. Nothing occurred other than the engine turning over. What do you think?
When should we expect a response?
Per your instructions, we hot wired the coil but, nothing. What do you think?
Thanks for your interest. I tried the "Hot Wire" procedure you suggested and still nothing.
When we started this conversation, I noted having previously replaced the truck's modulator, coil and distributor (including a new cap, rotor and secondary wire) at which time the truck started as normal. Approx. 3 weeks later after sitting idle for that time, the engine again wouldn't start.
After trying your most recent "Hot Wire" coil suggestion, I installed another rebuilt distributor (with the same new cap, rotor and secondary wire). The engine started immediately as if nothing had ever happened. It will be interesting to see if history repeats itself.
Just between you and me, why would a distributor fail from inactivity? During the time the truck was idle, the only external input was a 15 volt trickle charger installed to keep the battery from being consumed by all of the electrical loads generally found in modern vehicles. What am I missing?
Have a good day.