Not able to shift into overdrive or reverse. Just got done putting engine and transmission back in car. Could it be a shifter issue or could I have damaged the transmission during separation?
are you there?
are you saying the shifter wont move at all?
It gets hunged up trying to go into 1st-4th and wont even shift into overdrive or reverse
the shifter itself gets hung?
Yes, not sure where it is being hunged up at. Removed the shifter to get the transmission back in with engine.
this is an automatic..right?
remove the shifter
put it in neutral first
make sure all the gates that the shifter ball sits in is in line with neutral
Gates? Those be?
this is what the end of the shifter sits into
where it gos into the transmission
Okay i believe i know what you mean
do you know that this transmission is good/
Ill try it when i get home. Not for certain. Before pulling it shifted just fine threw all gears. The motor was bad. Rebuilt it.
fact is the trans may be bad
do check the gates
DISASSEMBLED VIEWREMOVAL 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Remove gear control lever knob (1) and place gear shift lever in the neutral position.
3. Remove lower cluster assembly (2).
4. Remove rear console (3).
5. Remove center console (4).
6. Remove grommet assembly (5).
7. Remove gear control lever (6).
8. Raise and support vehicle with suitable jack stands. Remove flexible hose bracket and slave cylinder (7) with pipe. 9. Remove propeller shaft flange yoke bolts and nuts at the differential side.
NOTE: Apply alignment marks on the flange at both front and rear sides. 10. Remove propeller shaft (8) from the transmission main shaft spline.
11. Remove fuel pipe heat protector (9) and clip. 12. Disconnect reverse switch and speed sensor harness connector. 13. Remove two cover bolts from the clutch housing and flywheel under cover (10). 14. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
15. Remove two transmission mounting rubber nuts (11). 16. Remove transmission mount rubber (12). 17. Remove six crossmember bolts and third crossmember (13). 18. Remove transmission retaining nuts and bolts. Remove the transmission (14) from the vehicle.INSTALLATION 1. Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the top gear shaft spline. 2. Slowly operate the transmission jack until the front of transmission jack is aligned with rear of the engine. The slope of the engine and the transmission must be the same. 3. Align the top gear shaft spline with the clutch driven plate spline. Install the transmission (14) to the engine.
4. Tighten the transmission nuts and bolts as shown in the figure. Flexible hose bracket bolt is installed at the step of slave cylinder installation. 5. Install the transmission mounting rubber (12) to the transmission case. Torque: 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) 6. Install the third crossmember (13) to the frame. Torque: 76 Nm (56 ft. lbs.)
7. Install the transmission to third crossmember. Torque: 41 Nm (30 Ft. lbs.) Remove the transmission jack from transmission side. 8. Install flywheel under cover (10). 9. Connect reverse switch and speed sensor harness connector.
10. Connect fuel pipe to transmission side.
11. Install fuel pipe heat protector (9) and clip. 12. Insert propeller shaft splined yoke into the transmission mainshaft spline. Install the propeller shaft flange yoke to the drive pinion flange. Torque: 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.))
13. Install slave cylinder (7) and flexible hose bracket. Slave cylinder bolt Torque: 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) Flexible hose bracket bolt Torque: 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
14. Lower the vehicle and install gear control lever (6).
15. Install grommet assembly (5). 16. Install center console (4), rear console (3) and lower. cluster assembly (2). Install gear control lever knob (1). 17. Connect battery ground cable.
Could i have placed the pins in wrong side of transmission? Shorter pin on passenger side and lo.ger on driver side
it is posible,,check that also
when you remove the shifter
use a screw driver to move one of the gates to see if it will go into reverse
Where does it say those pins go?
the pins at the shiter??
Be for the sensors.
on the side of the transmission?
why did you have them out?
Could not get harness unpluged so i took sensors off
i wouldnt think the sensors would do this
im going to send you a complete brekdown of your transmission
please give me a moment
this is allot of info
but,,it should help you find your problem
i think your problem is in the shifter
we dont really know the trans is good
this should help
DISASSEMBLED VIEWDISASSEMBLY 1. Clean the exterior of the unit with solvent. 2. Remove the clutch release bearing and shift fork.
3. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the clutch housing to the case.
4. Mount the transmission in the holding fixture J-36842. Install the transmission with its holding fixture into the holding fixture base J-3289-20 mounted on the end of a work bench.
5. Remove the drain plug from the transmission case and drain the lubricant. 6. Remove the speedometer driven gear assembly, using a 10 mm wrench to remove the clamp bolt. Pull out the sleeve/gear. 7. Position the offset lever (3) in the "3-4" neutral position. NOTE: Removal of the offset lever in a position other than "3-4" may result in driving a roll pin (1) into the detent/guide plate without releasing the lever (3) from the shift shaft. Further disassembly will be difficult it this occurs.
8. Using a 3/16-inch diameter pin punch and a hammer, remove the offset lever roll pin (1) attaching the offset lever to the shift shaft. 9. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the extension housing to the case, using a 15 mm wrench. Note that two bolts use sealer. Separate the extension housing assembly (2) from the case and shift cover. The offset lever (3) will also separate from the shift shaft.
NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the offset lever while the extension housing is still bolted to the case. The lever has a positioning lug which engages the detent/guide plate and prevents moving the lever far enough to remove it.
10. Remove the offset lever (3) from the extension housing, along with the detent ball (3) and spring (3). Remove the roll pin (1) from either the offset lever or extension housing.
11. Carefully pry the oiling funnel (4) from the rear of the counter shaft. This may be a very snug fit, and the funnel may become damaged during removal unless extreme care is used. 12. Remove the 10 bolts that hold the shift cover to the case, using a 10 mm wrench.
NOTE: Two of the shift cover bolts are also alignment dowels. Note the location of these bolts for assembly. Remove the shift cover assembly (5) from the case by sliding it sideways toward the drain plug side of the case for a distance of 1 inch. Then lift the cover straight up from the case. You may need to break the sealer bond between the cover and case before you can separate them.
13. Remove the 5-R shift lever clip (6), using a pair of needlenose pliers.
14. Remove the 5-R lever pivot bolt (7), using a T-50 bit and ratchet. Note that this bolt uses sealer.
15. Remove the 5th synchronizer snap ring (8) from the rear of the counter shaft, using a pair of snap ring pliers.
Remove splined washer (8), reverse cone (8) and reverse blocking ring (8). Remove the 5th synchronizer assembly (8), together with its fork/rail assembly (8), from the counter shaft.
16. Using a 22 mm wrench, remove the backup lamp switch from the 5-R shift lever side of the case. Note that the threads use sealer. Lift the 5-R lever (9) out of the transmission case.
Remove the spring from the case. Remove the reverse fork and spring assembly (9) along with the 5-R lever (9). 17. Remove the 5th drive gear (10) and blocking ring (10) from the counter shaft.
18. Remove slip yoke seal (11) and snap ring (11) from the mainshaft.
19. Remove speedometer drive gear (11) and clip (11) by using speed drive gear puller J-38878.
20. Remove 5th driven gear snap ring.
21. Scribe alignment marks on the case and input bearing retainer and remove the four input shaft bearing retainer bolts, using a 13 mm wrench. Note the thread sealer on these bolts. Remove the input bearing retainer (12), together with the bearing outer race (12) and shim(s) (12).
22. Remove the input shaft assembly (13) from the case by rotating it until the flat surface on the clutch tooth ring on the shaft allows it to clear the counter shaft. 23. Remove these 4th gear blocking ring, mainshaft thrust bearing and race, mainshaft needle bearing (15 rollers) and spacer (14) either from the input (13) or mainshaft. 24. Push the mainshaft rearward to remove the mainshaft rear bearing outer race (15).
25. Tilt and lift the mainshaft assembly (16) from the case.
26. Remove the counter shaft rear bearing retainer by: - Bending back the lock tabs with a punch and hammer. - Removing the four bolts, using a 13 mm wrench, or T-40 bit and ratchet. - Removing the retainer (17) and shim (17) from the case.
27. Remove the roll pin (18) that holds the reverse idler shaft in the case, using a 3/16-inch diameter pin punch and a hammer.
28.Remove the reverse idler assembly by pushing the shaft rearward and out of the case. Lift the reverse idler gear (18) and O-ring (18) out of the case. Pull out reverse idle shaft (18) rearward.
29. Remove the counter shaft rear bearing outer race (19) by pushing it rearward.
Remove the rear bearing assembly from the counter shaft by using gear puller J-8433, bearing and gear puller J-22912-01 and split plate.
30. Remove the counter shaft assembly (21) as shown in the figure from transmission case (22).INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1. Clean all parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air.
2. Inspect these parts for cracks and damaged sealing surfaces: - Case - Extension housing - Shift cover - Input bearing retainer - Counter shaft rear bearing retainer. Use a fine mill file to dress minor scratches or burrs. Replace severely damaged parts. Replace the counter shaft rear bearing retainer if the tangs are broken.
3. Look at surfaces on the above parts which support bearings and shafts. Replace parts which have excessive wear in these areas. Do not replace gears if phosphate coatings are worn.
4. Examine the bearing surfaces of the following parts: - Input shaft - Mainshaft and its gears - Counter shaft and the fifth drive gear.
- Reverse idler shaft and its gear. Replace parts which show signs of excessive wear. Do not file surfaces which have been hardened and precision ground.
5. Inspect shift mechanism parts as follows: - Look for wear on the shift shaft. - Look at the detent/guide plate and offset lever for worn edges or grooves where the detent ball and lug travel.
- Look for worn edges on these parts: - Selector arm - Interlock plate - Selector plates for the 1-2 and 3-4 shift forks
- 5-R shift lever and the rollers on the reverse fork and the 5th shift rail/fork.
- Look for worn mating surfaces on the following parts: - 1-2 shift fork, pads and synchronizer sleeve - 3-4 shift fork, pads and synchronizer sleeve - 5th shift rail/fork, pads and synchronizer sleeve - Reverse fork and the mating sleeve surface of the reverse idler gear.
6. Inspect the following bearings for excessive wear: - Crankshaft pilot bushing for the front of the input shaft - Clutch release bearing - Input shaft bearing - Mainshaft pilot bearing rollers - Mainshaft thrust bearing and its mating surfaces - Speed gear roller bearing on the mainshaft - Mainshaft rear bearing
- Counter shaft front and rear bearings. Replace any bearing and its races that show roughness.
7. Inspect the gear tooth surfaces on all the gear sets. Replace all mating gears in a set if any one has excessive wear on the meshing surfaces of its teeth. Look for fractures, pitting, scoring and spalling.
8. Disassemble the three synchronizer assemblies: - The 1-2, which has three-piece assemblies.
- The 3-4, which has sintered metal blocking rings.
- The 5-R, which uses single-piece brass blocking rings. - Examine the fit between the hub and sleeve of each synchronizer. Besides binding shift linkage, an excessively tight or loose hub-to-sleeve fit will cause what is known as a "hard shift".
- Measure the clearance between the blocking ring and the speed gear. Excessive wear on either the blocking ring or the speed gear cone surface will cause "shift blockout" or "gear clash".
BLOCKING RING TO GEAR CLEARANCE
- Look for evidence of gear clash on both the synchronizer sleeve teeth or the clutch teeth on the speed gear.
- Finally, look at the synchronizer sleeve and speed gear clutch tooth area for cause of "hopout".REASSEMBLY
1. Use a hydraulic press and the J-6133-01 installer to press the counter shaft rear bearing assembly (20) onto the counter shaft (21). Use tool J-37357 to support the counter shaft in the transmission case (22).
2. Install the counter shaft rear bearing outer race (19) and retainer (17) without the shim. - Tighten the retainer bolts, using a 13 mm socket (or a T-40 bit) and a torque wrench. Torque: 20 Nm (15 Ft. lbs.)
- Mount a dial indicator on the case and set it up to measure counter shaft end play. Move the counter shaft up and down and read the total amount of indicator travel. - Select shim which is the same thickness as the indicator reading, or up to 0.004 inch less than the reading.
- Remove the counter shaft rear bearing retainer and outer race.
3. Install the reverse idler shaft (18), gear (18), and O-ring (18). Use a 3/16-inch diameter pin punch and hammer to install the reverse idler shaft roll pin (18).
4. Install the counter shaft rear bearing outer race (19), shim (17) and retainer (17). Tightening the bolts. Torque: 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) 5. Bend the lock tabs on the retainer, using a punch and hammer. 6. Install the mainshaft assembly (16) into the case. 7. Install the mainshaft rear bearing outer race (15) into the rear of the case. 8. Install 4th speed blocking ring (14) onto the front of the mainshaft. Install the mainshaft thrust race (14), bearing (14), and spacer (14) onto the front of the mainshaft. Apply petroleum jelly to the mainshaft pilot bearing rollers (14) (there are 15 rollers) and install them into the input shaft. 9. Install the input shaft (13) onto the front of the mainshaft.
10. Install the input bearing retainer (12) and bearing outer race (12) without shim onto the front of the case. Tighten the four bolts, using a 13 mm socket and a torque wrench. Torque: 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) 11. Install the 5th speed drive gear (10) and 5th synchronizer blocking ring (10) on the rear of the counter shaft.
12. Install the 5-R lever with reverse fork (9) and spring (9) into the case.
13. Assemble the 5th synchronizer and rail/fork and install them as follows: - Guide the rail (8) through the reverse fork (9) and into the front of the case. - Push the 5th synchronizer assembly (8) onto the splines of the counter shaft together with 5th shift fork and rail (8). - Install the reverse blocking ring, reverse cone (8), splined washer (8) and 5th synchronizer snap ring (8). - Align the slot of the 5-R shift lever with the roller of the 5th shift rail. 14. Install oiling funnel (4). 15. Coat the threads of the 5-R lever pivot bolt (7) with sealer and install it (7) into the case. Make sure that the 5-R lever is properly aligned with the pivot bolt. Tighten the pivot bolt, using T-50 bit and a torque wrench. Torque: 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.)
16. Install the 5-R lever clip (6) using a pair of needle-nose pliers. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to attach the reverse fork spring to its pin inside the case. Check the operation of the 5-R shift mechanism at this time.
17. Install the 5th driven gear snap ring (11), using snap ring pliers. Install the clip (11) and speedometer drive gear (11) onto the rear of the mainshaft, using installer J-6133-01 and a hammer. Be sure the speedometer gear retaining clip is fully seated. 18. Install the slip yoke snap ring (11) onto the end of the mainshaft, using a pair of snap ring pliers.
19. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) bead of RTV sealant on the sealing surface of the shift cover. Make sure that the 1-2 and 3-4 synchronizer sleeves are in Neutral position, as well as the 5-11 shift lever. Lower the cover onto the case, allowing the 1-2 and 3-4 forks to slide onto their sleeves. Slide the shift cover assembly (5) toward the 5-R lever side just before the cover contacts the case. Install the ten cover-to-case bolts, beginning with the two alignment-type bolts, using a 10 mm socket and a torque wrench. Torque: 14 Nm (10 ft. lbs.)
20. Must align reverse cone with the tab (8) in the "Up" (12 o'clock) position.
21. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) bead of RTV sealant to the sealing surface of the extension housing. Lubricate the detent/guide plate in the extension housing with lithium grease. Install the detent ball (3) in the "3-4" position of the detent pattern of the plate. Place the offset lever (3) with detent spring (3) in the extension housing detent/guide plate area and push the extension housing (2) against the case and shift cover (5).
Guide the offset lever (3) onto the shift shaft as you push the extension housing (2). You will have to compress the detent spring (3) against its ball (3) to fit the parts easily. Apply sealer to the threads of the top two extension housing-to-case bolts and install them. Install the other six bolts as well. Tighten the bolts, using a 15 mm socket and a torque wrench. Torque: 30 Nm (23 ft. lbs.) Apply sealer to the threads of the back-up lamp switch and the drain plug and install them, using suitable wrenches. 22. Install the offset lever-to-shift shaft roll pin (1), using a hammer.
23. Turn the transmission case on end, and mount a dial indicator on the extension housing. Set up the indicator to measure input/mainshaft end play. Move the input/mainshaft up and down and read the total amount of indicator travel.
- Select a shim which is the same thickness as the indicator reading (±0.001 inch). This will give an end play of zero. - Remove the input bearing retainer.
- Install the selected shim(s) (12) behind the input bearing outer race (12) in the retainer. If two shims are used, put the thinner one in first. - Install the input shaft bearing retainer (12) against the case. Torque: 20 Nm (15 Ft. lbs.) - Recheck the input/mainshaft end play. Change the shim again if end play is not zero (±0.001 inch). - Apply a 1/8-inch (3 mm) bead of RTV sealant on the sealing surface of the retainer. - Apply sealer to the threads of the four retainer bolts. - Install the input shaft bearing retainer (12) against the case. Torque: 20 Nm (15 Ft. lbs.) 24. Install the speedometer driven gear assembly. 25. Remove the transmission from the holding fixture. 26. Loosen the fill plug and fill with DEXRON III Automatic Transmission Fluid.
27. Install the clutch housing to the case. Torque: 76 Nm (56 Ft. lbs.) 28. Install the clutch release bearing and shift fork.
29. Clean the sealing surface of the shift control lever and inspect it for warpage.
i dont knw if you got all that
I might have gotten shifter wrong, but when seperating trans from engi.e. no one told me there where 9 bolts inside holdi.g the clutch to the flywheel and i pryed on the engine for a while ttilling finding those bolts.
the reason i think it is in the shift mechanism
...is because reverse and 5th is on the same shift gate/rod
Okay, well. Ill check the shifter and let you know. Thanks again tim
you are very welcome
Okay tim, I guess Ill have to throw my hands up and find a transmission. I got overdrive and reverse to work, but I lost 3 and 4. Engine sounded good, thou i have a little coolant leak with exhaust leak.
Is this all the service information of this transmission?
Got trans out, going to take it to a shop. How much should I expect?
it will shift in all gears, but very hard to overdrive.