JMJ ... UNDER TRUCK LOOKING UP AT 2 OIL LINES = THE OIL FILTER,AND OIL FILTER ADAPTER ARE IN THE WAY OF THE 2 NUTS HOLDING THE 2 TUBES - OIL FILTER IS EASY, BUT THERE ARE TWO BOLTS HOLDING THE ADAPTER IN BUT THEY HAVE A SQUARE FEMALE HEAD 1/4 2 SM, 3/8 2 BIG = WHAT SIZE(5/16) OR MM ? ----WHERE WOULD I GET A TOOL TO FIT , (LONG SQUARE SHAFT TO USE A WRENCH ON) ETC. THE DIAGRAM SHOWS THE NUT AND A WRING FOR A CLIP - THE REPLACEMENT TUBE COMES WITH A PLASTIC WRING,BUSHING,GROMMET ? DOESN'T APPEAR TO BE SOMETHING TO HOLD THE 3 PTS. OF THE SPRING CLIP ? ARE THESE 2 DIFFERENT PARTS ?DO I TURN THE 2 NUTS HOLDING THE TUBES TO REMOVE THEM AND THEN TAKE THE SPRING CLIP OUT, THEN REVERSE TO PUT BACK IN ? NOT MUCH ROOM UNDER THERE BUT BETTER THAN UNDER THE DASH TO GET TO THE BOOSTER NUTS AND LINKAGE TO BRAKE PEDAL = ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR WORKING UNDER THE DASH, (LIKE TAKING OUT ANY BRACES (REPLACE WHEN DONE) TO GIVE MORE ROOM FOR WORKING ? ALSO IS IT OK TO S H O O T THE ENGINEER WHO PUT THIS TOGETHER ? ;o)I HAVE LOOSENED THE TUBES AT THE RADIATOR, TOOK APART THE MASTER CYLINDER, SEPARATED BOOSTER AT THE POINT (5 BOLTS) WHERE THE BIG PLUNGER IS . YET TO ATTEMPT UNDER DASH,(PRAYING FOR A GENIE 2 DO IT WHILE I SLEEP) :o)THE BRAKE SYSTEM IS IN TACT, SO JUST BOLT IT BACK .THE BOOSTER SYSTEM NEEDS TO BE BLED ??? HOW PLEASE !THANK YOU & GOD Bless,kevin
Model: wrk - k3500 - 7.4
EXPLAINED IN THE SUBMITTED Q.....
Thanks for trusting us with your problem. I have trained in the automotive field and currently work as a lead technician. I will be helping you todayLets start with the oil filter adapter.This is likely to be metric. Normally these will be just bolts but only metric will fit them.You are saying they are square female.
JMJ ... YES AS IN ALLEN WRENCH BUT SQUARE NOT ALLEN, STAR, JUST SQUARE 4 SIDED FEMALE (NO PUN) NOT 1/4sm, 3/8large ??? OH, WHATS A MOTHER TO DO ?
How far off is it from the 3/8 ratchet end?
JMJ ... LOOKS TO BE 5/16
Okay try a torx T60
JMJ ... TORX = STAR ? WILL TRY, B BACK TOMORROWHAVE A GOOD NIGHT, GOD Bless
JMJ TRYING TO FIND THE 'T' SOCKET SET WHICH WAS IN MY HANDS A MONTH AGO, DANG, .... WILL GET BACK TO YOU, PLEASE BE PATIENT ...
No problem, I will be here when you need me.
JMJT Y !
P_A_T; found the ' t ' set, T45 = 2 sm, T47 = 2 lg, --- I have the oil drained, filter out, the 2 tubes out from the radiator & off the bracket (1/2 way to the adapter)... just need to find a sq. tool to fit...........
How much bigger is the 3/8 ratchet end or extension from going into the hole. Way to big or close?
within 1/16 as is the 1/4 ratchet end within 1/16 = approx 5/16" is what is needed, guess I'll have to try hardware store for 5/16 sq. stock ... as apposed to grinding a 3/8" down
I would grind down a 3/8 which is 1/16 not hard to take some down.
P A T; went to Salvo's auto pts. store = $2.69 8mm sq. fitting(had a # XXXXX different sizes) - now i take out filter/adpt. this leaves the question - how to remove the oil cooler tubes - looks line a nut holding them in - your diagram shows a 3 point holding pin needs to be removed - is it the nut first ?
Yes you have to remove the nut first.
when putting oil cooler lines back in, install new fittings first & then push in oil cooler tubes into fittings ... correct ? (fittings arrive today)
also i have the power booster apart in engine compartment leaving the section that goes through the fire wall & attaches to break pedal arm ...
how do i get to undo the booster rod from brake pedal arm ?.......it is above steering column in a spot surrounded in the brace holding the steering column leaving the brake pedal / booster connection next to impossible to access without a magician ? ? ?
according to diagram ... the booster push rod needs - push rod spacer-bushing-stoplight sw.-spacer-hairpin clip - all of which i need room to get to ........... ? ? ?
who designed this ???????? Lord have Mercy !!!
Do you have the steps?You have to remove the brake pedal switch and than remove the rod.
JMJ can't find the steps ..................... the brake pedal sw. is up in the brace holding the steering column ---- the brace is surrounding the sw., pedal, & rod attachment connection
(how do i get to undo the booster rod from brake pedal arm ?.......it is above steering column in a spot surrounded in the brace holding the steering column leaving the brake pedal / booster connection next to impossible to access without a magician ? ? ?)
Correct!Let me give you the steps with images. CLICK HERE
JMJ .............. the steps are clear, but access is next to impossible --- i can't find any room to access the brake rod, booster rod, brake switch --- the brace around it is solid & no room for hands & no sight path to see what i'm doing, etc. -----------how do i get to it ?
This is not easy.I get my head and smash myself up underneath it. Most work has to be done by feel.
JMJ ............. is it allowed to hang the engineer that came up with this assembly & location ......... if so, where is the bum ???????? I would like to do it myself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They do not work on them plain and simple. They make it look good and presentable but people who have to work on them get the joy!
JMJ ......................... ;o(
I feel your frustration 100%
JMJ ... u sent this......................
Yes they are the same and no you do not need any special tools.The steps I provided give you all the detailed information. I wanted to verify that was the part in question because the image you sent was hard to see but that is the name on the part. ........................
I also have the oil cooler line steps this you will want to have some tubing wrenches.CLICK HERE
.................................& now i get this error 404@ bottom.............................
worked when you first sent it............... not now....................?
would you please resend ... i need to know which hole in engine goes to which hole in radiator ....... i put the fitting with the plastic (?) on it in the hole toward the back end & the plain fitting in the hole toward the front of vehicle as this was the way they came out....... i forgot which went to the top of radiator & which to the bottom of radiator ... think back hole goes to top of radiator ???
JMJ .... oil lines are good, have the bottom of radiator line into the engine @ the hole towards the back of engine & top radiator line into the engine hole towards the front of engine (the best i could determine from diagram) = is this correct ???
the booster is out (still would like to hangthe engineer just on principle) - the old booster has a thin gasket on it - is this necessary to install on the new booster between the unit & firewall or if just fro water, i could use caulk ???
That is correct. Yes you can just use some silicone to seal it up and make sure it never leaks inside the cab.
College Training. Current Lead Tech
JMJ ............. THANK YOU !
Your very welcome!
I hope I have helped solve the problem. Let me know if I can do anything more to help. If my assistance has been beneficiary please take a moment to rate my answer. Thank you!
JMJ ............very busy 2 dy . no time 4 trk ....... let u no wen dun
JMJ ........... booster in & brake switch in & spring clip in ... under hood at booster - looking at the diagram of booster - a little different, #1 master cyl #2 wire harness, #3 spacer, #4 booster assembly =
#2 shows harness between master & spacer & the harness piece as a circle which the rod goes through __the harness piece i have is half as in a u with the hook at bottom= leaving a gap at the top half --- so it appears to go on over booster bolts last(after brake master ?) is this correct ???
= #3 the spacer looks to be a big washer (ring) & i don't have or have seen this during removal, not on ground or anywhere under hood !
~~~~ do i need to get a spacer for this ? if so what size & thickness ???
--- what i do have is a rod & spring & --- a bushing (5/16) center hole with a metal 6 point star with the 6 ends bent at a 45 degree found inside old booster assembly part # XXXXX
= does this go in 1st, between the booster unit & coil spring & the the operating rod for brake master * also does this bushing, #SBP2, install with bent ends facing the spring* ???
Can you take a picture?
JMJ ..... wouldn't know how to transfer pic from phone to computer .........
if you are thinking bushing, it is part # XXXXX - plastic(?) center pressed into a metal star, the star is made of (spring metal) thin-black-sturdy & i just checked it on spring - the bushings small side fits exactly into brake master spring leaving the bent ends facing the booster
the wire hanger looks like a *Y* with the top *v* rounded more like a *u* just 2 holes for the booster bolts
the spacer shown in diagram you sent doesn't exist here on truck
Correct. I was just trying to see what you do. I would say the washer is not needed on your application. If the booster is going up like it should you do not have to worry about it. Sometimes I find if the top is sticking out just throw a random washer and bring it up flush with the bottom so it doesnt sit unlevel.
first Q...please expand on washer = ( spacer ) ? not needed ?
second Q....bushing as i mentioned last messaqge
third Q....yoke hanger on last as in last message
The bent ends go facing the spring. As for the yoke hanger I would have to see a picture since my instruction steps are not the same.
get back 2 u
the wire hanger would look like a sling shot *Y* the J bottom for wire & the two top ends with bolt holes is only other way i can think ?
the bushing goes into the booster with bent ends facing out, then spring, then push rod with plastic washer end toward brake master is this correct ?
You got it. Just hard to visualize it without seeing it!
JMJ ............... think success ? the brakes were tight & hard to move, ride on beltway 5 mi. & parked (mistake) low batt. (sit 6 wks) - got it going (eng), but brakes locked, floored it - move some to park lot, r brakes cool, f brakes very hot, no move - sat 15 min. no move, 4 wheel & moved , og & put in 2 wheel somewhat ok - sat at home 10 min & f brakes still hot but not as much - back on beltway ran great ? home & f brakes cool ? i'm thinling sat too long & brakes were stiff enough to heat them . i know after long time rain they get touchy especially if sitting for awhile( this time too long(?)
no oil leaks, no hydraulic leaks = success ? spotted small coolant spot, that will be next trouble shoot ...
Thanks for your help, GOD Bless,
I would have to say it sounds like the calipers could be a issue. If it does not go away I would pull them off and ensure you can press them all the way in with a C-clamp like when you change the pads. If not replace as needed. Your very welcome and god bless to you!