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did it do this before you replaced the timing belt?
are you there?
I had removed the old belt before setting the crank to tdc. So to set the timing, I removed the spark plugs, turned the crank till the key way lined up with the mark on the oil pump. Then I rotated the 2 cam gears until they popped into place closest to the marks on the valve covers. The slack was toward the tensioner when it was reinstalled.
you didnt use the marks on the belt at all?
did it run this way before/
I did at first. then when I rotated the crank around it appeared like the crank was off a tooth (counterclockwise). So I removed the tensioner again, reset the crank and when I did for whatever reason the marks on the belt now didn't line up with anything but when I rotate the crank around twice, the marks all come back to where they should.
It ran fine as far as I know before popping the timing belt off.
the lines on the belt wont align after just two rotations
I wasn't even going to replace but then figured with 106,000 miles I better
because of its lenth
it sounds as if you do have it off a notch or maybe two
you need to align it this way
Well, I've had a couple people say the same thing... you lose all power if it is off
and,,iin danger of the valves hitting the pistons
THIS ARTICLE HAS BEEN UPDATED NOTE: - Do not install the timing belt until you are sure the camshafts, camshaft pulleys, and crankshaft timing pulley are in their correct "timed" positions. - Left and right engine callouts are from the driver's seat.
1. With the green direction arrows on the timing belt pointing clockwise, slip the belt over the right camshaft pulley so its solid white line (the line closest to the direction arrows) aligns with the mark on the pulley. Secure the belt to the pulley with a large binder clip. 2. Wrap the timing belt around the bottom of the water pump pulley, and draw it tight.
3. Slip the timing belt over the left camshaft pulley so its other solid white line (the one farthest from the direction arrows) aligns with the mark on the pulley. Secure the belt to the pulley with a large binder clip. 4. Wrap the timing belt around the inner side of the idler pulley, then slip the belt over the crankshaft timing pulley with its dotted white line aligned to the green mark on the crankshaft timing pulley.
NOTE: For correct belt stretch, the doffed line must meet the green mark on the crankshaft timing pulley at the 9 o'clock position. If there isn't enough slack to slip the belt over the pulley in the correct position, turn the crankshaft a few degrees counterclockwise, install the belt, then turn the crankshaft back to the 9 o'clock position.
5. Place the tensioner pusher in a soft-jawed vise, then slowly compress the tensioner pusher pin until it lines up with the two small holes in the tensioner pusher housing. 6. Insert a straightened heavy duty paper clip through the holes in the housing. This will hold the pin in its compressed position. NOTE: A new tensioner pusher comes with its pin held compressed by a special wire. If you install a new tensioner pusher, save the wire for future use.
7. Install the tensioner pusher: - Install the lower bolt loosely. - Push the tensioner pusher up against the tensioner pulley, then install the upper bolt, and torque it to 25 N.m (15 lb-ft). - Torque the lower bolt to 25 N.m (15 lb-ft). 8. Remove the wire or paper clip from the tensioner pusher, and remove the binder clips from the camshaft pulleys. 9. Verify the timing belt is correctly installed: - Rotate the crankshaft three complete turns. - Align the crankshaft timing pulley notch with the mark on the oil pump housing. - Check the green marks on both camshaft pulleys; they should line up with the valve cover timing marks.
NOTE: After you rotate the crankshaft, the solid white lines on the belt will not align with the camshaft pulley marks; this is normal. 10.Remove the crankshaft bolt, then install the lower, the right, and the left timing belt covers. Torque the cover bolts to 19 N.m (14 lb-ft). 11.Install the crankshaft pulley, and torque the bolt to 167 N.m (123 lb-ft). 12.Install fan pulley bracket and tighten fixing bolts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) 13.Install power steering pump assembly and tighten to the specified torque. Torque: M8 bolt: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) M10 bolt: 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) 14.Install cooling fan assembly and tighten bolts/nuts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) for fan pulley and fan bracket. Torque: 7.5 Nm (66.4 inch lbs.) for fan and clutch assembly.
15.Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench, then install drive belt to normal position. 16.Install radiator upper fan shroud. 17. Install air cleaner assembly.
pain in the arse..just give me my chevrolet big block back !
lol..tyhats what im saying
time it this way...and it will be right
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Will it cause a rattle in the front of the motor and a shake in the serpentine belt tensioner like I described ?
it can cause everything to shake
put it in time,,i would think it will be fine
I've been a parts man and mechanic of sorts all my life so I have some mechanical ability but this thing has just been crazy
I will copy these instructions. I went out and bought a Haynes manual for the car and was not very helpful.
yes,,all cars are a little agravating now
yeah, the engines in the 60's early 70's was the good ole days
even the eaarly 80's
no more though
even this engine isnt bad
they get worse in the newer models
Thanks for your help Tim. I'll rate as soon as I copy these files. I probably won't get to it before weds. but I'll try to contact you if I have any further issues. Rich
you are very welcome
So is this or is it not an "interference" motor ???
ok ...great ! hopfully I didn't bend anything ...I doubt it ...sounds too good other than the rattle and she fires with just the touch of the key
i wouldnt think you have any damage
done copying ...take care. Thanks again.
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