I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2v6 that I have replaced the radiator, water pump, and timing belt and at idle it rattles like crazy and the belt tensioner(new) shakes yet when you bring rpm up to 1200 or remove the serpentine belt it runs quiet.However, it has no power and very slow acceleration and I was told something must be off a tooth on timing yet the marks on all 3 gears seem to fall in the correct spot. Any suggestions ?
Country: United StatesMake: IsuzuModel: RodeoYear: 2002Engine: 2.3v6
The belt lines were not set with the marks on the gears yet the belt is tight and both the crank and cam gears rotate around and fall on their respective lines every 2 revolutions.
did it do this before you replaced the timing belt?
are you there?
I had removed the old belt before setting the crank to tdc. So to set the timing, I removed the spark plugs, turned the crank till the key way lined up with the mark on the oil pump. Then I rotated the 2 cam gears until they popped into place closest to the marks on the valve covers. The slack was toward the tensioner when it was reinstalled.
you didnt use the marks on the belt at all?
did it run this way before/
I did at first. then when I rotated the crank around it appeared like the crank was off a tooth (counterclockwise). So I removed the tensioner again, reset the crank and when I did for whatever reason the marks on the belt now didn't line up with anything but when I rotate the crank around twice, the marks all come back to where they should.
It ran fine as far as I know before popping the timing belt off.
the lines on the belt wont align after just two rotations
I wasn't even going to replace but then figured with 106,000 miles I better
because of its lenth
it sounds as if you do have it off a notch or maybe two
you need to align it this way
Well, I've had a couple people say the same thing... you lose all power if it is off
and,,iin danger of the valves hitting the pistons
THIS ARTICLE HAS BEEN UPDATED NOTE: - Do not install the timing belt until you are sure the camshafts, camshaft pulleys, and crankshaft timing pulley are in their correct "timed" positions. - Left and right engine callouts are from the driver's seat.
1. With the green direction arrows on the timing belt pointing clockwise, slip the belt over the right camshaft pulley so its solid white line (the line closest to the direction arrows) aligns with the mark on the pulley. Secure the belt to the pulley with a large binder clip. 2. Wrap the timing belt around the bottom of the water pump pulley, and draw it tight.
3. Slip the timing belt over the left camshaft pulley so its other solid white line (the one farthest from the direction arrows) aligns with the mark on the pulley. Secure the belt to the pulley with a large binder clip. 4. Wrap the timing belt around the inner side of the idler pulley, then slip the belt over the crankshaft timing pulley with its dotted white line aligned to the green mark on the crankshaft timing pulley.
NOTE: For correct belt stretch, the doffed line must meet the green mark on the crankshaft timing pulley at the 9 o'clock position. If there isn't enough slack to slip the belt over the pulley in the correct position, turn the crankshaft a few degrees counterclockwise, install the belt, then turn the crankshaft back to the 9 o'clock position.
5. Place the tensioner pusher in a soft-jawed vise, then slowly compress the tensioner pusher pin until it lines up with the two small holes in the tensioner pusher housing. 6. Insert a straightened heavy duty paper clip through the holes in the housing. This will hold the pin in its compressed position. NOTE: A new tensioner pusher comes with its pin held compressed by a special wire. If you install a new tensioner pusher, save the wire for future use.
7. Install the tensioner pusher: - Install the lower bolt loosely. - Push the tensioner pusher up against the tensioner pulley, then install the upper bolt, and torque it to 25 N.m (15 lb-ft). - Torque the lower bolt to 25 N.m (15 lb-ft). 8. Remove the wire or paper clip from the tensioner pusher, and remove the binder clips from the camshaft pulleys. 9. Verify the timing belt is correctly installed: - Rotate the crankshaft three complete turns. - Align the crankshaft timing pulley notch with the mark on the oil pump housing. - Check the green marks on both camshaft pulleys; they should line up with the valve cover timing marks.
NOTE: After you rotate the crankshaft, the solid white lines on the belt will not align with the camshaft pulley marks; this is normal. 10.Remove the crankshaft bolt, then install the lower, the right, and the left timing belt covers. Torque the cover bolts to 19 N.m (14 lb-ft). 11.Install the crankshaft pulley, and torque the bolt to 167 N.m (123 lb-ft). 12.Install fan pulley bracket and tighten fixing bolts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) 13.Install power steering pump assembly and tighten to the specified torque. Torque: M8 bolt: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) M10 bolt: 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) 14.Install cooling fan assembly and tighten bolts/nuts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) for fan pulley and fan bracket. Torque: 7.5 Nm (66.4 inch lbs.) for fan and clutch assembly.
15.Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench, then install drive belt to normal position. 16.Install radiator upper fan shroud. 17. Install air cleaner assembly.
pain in the arse..just give me my chevrolet big block back !
lol..tyhats what im saying
time it this way...and it will be right
Please RATE my answer by clicking the RATINGS button, so I can get credit for my work,,the [BAD SERVICE] and [POOR SERVICE] rating does not give me credit].i don't receive commission if you give a less than 3 star/smiley rating ..I'm not always going to be giving you good news,so please don't let this stand in the way of you accepting my answer.it does not cost you more money.we will still be able to communicate.please understand,i can not see,hear or touch the vehicle and only know what you tell me. Bonuses and positive feedback are appreciated!if you are not satisfied with my answer,please do not leave bad feed back,i will gladly opt out and let another expert handle the question.if i have sent any diagrams,please print them.they will only stay on here for an hour or so...sometimes you may need to right click the image,then save picture as]to save it to your computer so you can open it with your picture program...PLEASE ASK IF YOU NEED MORE HELP
Will it cause a rattle in the front of the motor and a shake in the serpentine belt tensioner like I described ?
it can cause everything to shake
put it in time,,i would think it will be fine
I've been a parts man and mechanic of sorts all my life so I have some mechanical ability but this thing has just been crazy
I will copy these instructions. I went out and bought a Haynes manual for the car and was not very helpful.
yes,,all cars are a little agravating now
yeah, the engines in the 60's early 70's was the good ole days
even the eaarly 80's
no more though
even this engine isnt bad
they get worse in the newer models
Thanks for your help Tim. I'll rate as soon as I copy these files. I probably won't get to it before weds. but I'll try to contact you if I have any further issues. Rich
you are very welcome
So is this or is it not an "interference" motor ???
ok ...great ! hopfully I didn't bend anything ...I doubt it ...sounds too good other than the rattle and she fires with just the touch of the key
i wouldnt think you have any damage
done copying ...take care. Thanks again.
thanks for using justanswer
owns a repair shop...25yrs
Tim, Just put the Rodeo back together this evening...still has a problem and I know without a doubt the belt is correct. The ONLY thing I'm not sure about is the camshafts' cycle. I believe the camshaft gear rotates twice for a complete cycle. So if one or both camshafts were on the wrong rotation, would the engine even run ? The marks of course were lined up perfectly with the belt and valve cover. Thanks , RichThe engine runs a little better than before... the shake is gone for the most part but still lacks some power and when I kick in the AC she dies. The only thing I know I need to do is add 1/2 qt of trans fluid which leaked out with radiator replacement.
i would think the timing is right nowdoes the engine light come on now?if so,,can you give me the trouble codeexplain to me what it does the best you canthanks
ok... She started right up when I put her back together and the rattle and shake that was in the front of the engine and belt tensioner is pretty much gone. If you rev the engine, It pops a little thru the intake and then revs up unless you press the acc pedal slower or up the rpm's before you stomp it. It's idle rpm is about 800.Then I tried turning the ac on and it died. I put some seafoam in the gas tank thinking I might need to clean out the injection system a bit. I drove it up to the gas station 1.5 miles. Not very peppy at all. And when it sat at idle in park,a small pop or clank could be heard occasionally in the engine...maybe every 30 seconds. SO if I have a cam on the wrong cycle, would the engine even RUN ???
oh yes...engine light is flashing but it's been on forever...way before timing belt project. How do I get the trouble code ?
okyou need a scanner to get the codes,,,if you dont have an obd2 scanner,,auto zone and most parts stores will scan it and give you the codes for free..these codes will give a clue to the problemthanks
ok. A buddy of mine is a Mgr. at the local Auto Zone. They're close now but I'll try to stop by there tomorrow evening and get the code(s). You didn't answer my question about the cam rotation. I personally don't think the engine would run at all if I had one of both cam gears 360 degrees out but that's just SWAG on my part. It was shifting hard so I definitely need to add some fluid. Unfortunately, no dipstick or place to add trans fluid on the top side.
there is no way to have the cams out if the marks aligned....and,,no,it wouldnt run,180deg out....so we can rule that outthanks
Good morning Tim, I took the Rodeo to my local shop and they cleared the codes and ran a check.Code P1312 came up. I have found several scenario's for that. Leaking intake gasket(new one was installed with copper cote. Wrong spark plugs...bought autolite double platinum but someone said need Denso brand . Anyway, I was going to spray around gasket to see if rpm's pick up. Any thoughts ??? Myshop insists I still must be off a tooth. Rich
this code is for a bad wire connection....i will give you a break down for this code.....rich.if the belt is on as instructed above,,it is in time..though again,you may want to double checkthanks
Hi Tim, please resend diagrams...they won't enlarge. As far as bad connections, I didn't put the plastic locks back in the plugs for the coil packs cause I couldn't seem to get them locked in correctly. The plugs seem connected properly. I was more concerned with the spark plug to boot to coil pack connection. I don't understand how the boots install properly when they don't have a positive snap onto the spark plug ends...they just drop down the tube. I know there is a long spring inside but again I'm old school and used to the clips on the ends of spark plug wires. Main problem is still no acceleration or power on acceleration. Is that module inline in the air intake tube coming from the air filter ?
hiths pcm is the main engine computer..try this
ok...I was actually referring to the ION sensing module.
oksorry..here we gothanks
Tim, Thanks for the parts location charts. I really need the DTC P1312 Diagnostic Chart so I can try to locate the cause of this code. You sent them a day or two ago but they won't open. Everything else you sent did. Is this information you have available in a repair manual ? I bought the Haynes manual but none of this was in theirs. Rich
okthis may helpthanks
Tim, Thanks for your help. I haven't had the time to try and troubleshoot the ION module code but I will get to it this weekend. I'm also not going to continue a membership on here but I paid you again for all your time. Rich
ok richthat will be finethanks
Hi Tim, One last question before I expire(LOL), I started her up this evening after spraying all connections with contact cleaner. Ran the same and as I listened, I heard a slight tick on left bank. Thinking it was spark related I disconnected left front coil pack. Didn't make a difference. Then I disconnected middle left coil pack. Still no change. Finally I disconnected left rear coil pack. All three coil packs on left bank were disconnected and engine still ran the same. A buddy of mine who's been a mechanic for years told me I should do a compression check because when it backfired the first time I tried to start it I may have bent valves.And I may be getting the p1213 code as a byproduct of the engine running poorly. I'm shocked because it runs fairly smooth especially considering one side doesn't appear to be firing. Ever see this before ? Rich
he is right..you need to do a compression check sense it doesnt seem to hit good on that bank..it should have over 100psi on each cylender...you may infact have damage to the head/valves if the compression is low