Hi, Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I went in for surgery (Hernia) on Friday & have only now started to work on it again.

I got the car delivered back from Byrne Ford here in Brisbane on Friday as they had it for 3 days, had no idea what was wrong with it & charged me $550 for the pleasure of not knowing (I'm impressed). The dash was still in bits as I wasn't about to pay them anymore to put it back together.

I pushed the car back into the carport yesterday and thought that the battery seemed a bit low so put it on charge for about an hour and then thought "what the hell" and tried to start it, and it started??? everything still in bits mind you. now I did this off and on a few times through the day and every time it started so this morning I put it all back together and guess what? It won't start again.

I too was thinking along the lines of the Ignition barrel but when I took the Stearing Column surrounds off I had a good close look and it seems all fine, the back where the wires goes in is nice and tight and everything looks as it should.

The immobilizer light seems to be only on when the ignition is off as it is supposed to be and I have left it for a good 1.5 hours and tried again with still no joy.

I did note that when I put it all back together again the Radio was no longer asking for the code and it seemed to be working OK on that front, just still won't start.

Now Byrne Ford indicated that they found the car to have resistance on the CAN link with the ignition in the "ON" state and they "apparently" replaced the IC, BEM, ACM & PCM with test modules after disconnecting any aftermarket equipment though I can't swear to any of that.

I find it odd that it just started without any intervention on a number of occasions leading up to me putting it back together and now it doesn't again. I have removed the Radio Unit again and have tried to get it back to the way it was when it returned so that I can do some more fault finding.

So thats where I am up to at the moment.

Oh yeah, Front right speaker tends to drop out quite regularly but all the rest are good.

You thoughts & suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Hi, the Fuses are all Good.

Can't check for spark and fuel as it doesn't even attempt to wind over.

When you turn the ignition to "Start" it just clicks (In the Dash area, sounds like a relay clicking once) and then does nothing at all.

Whilst the ignition is turned to "Start" all of the dash lights remain on and strong, the radio screen goes blank and there is a light that lights up on the dash that is in between the Oil Light and Park Brake light that lights up (It looks like (!) with the exclamation mark in a circle) but that is it.

Which all seems to be as you would normaly expect as you are about to start the vehicle except it does nothing else, ie: Cranking, or clicking at the starter motor.

Forgot to mention that "Code" is back on the display of the radio as well.

Will have to go get a new trolley jack as this ones leaking now. Will check the voltages etc as soon as I get back.

Sorry, once again, took a bit of time to get back to you. I'm in the swing of things now. Fixed a few other issues whilst I had bits pulled off the car.

I tested the Constant 12V at the Starter and it was all good. Tested the Starter Motor Signal wire and there was zero volts in the off and starting position of the keys so obviously I'm not getting the start signal to the Starter Motor.

Replaced ALL of the fuses in the Cabin of the Car just in case and also swapped out the 3 Relays in the Cabin which made no difference.

When I turn the key to try and start the car both the P/W & Acc Relays definitely click though the IG Relay doesn't appear to. The IG Relay seems to click (I put my fingers on each relay in turn to discern whether they are clicking as I turn the Key to "start") when I turn the Ignition to "ON".

Next step Yoda? (Hey, that would make me Luke Skywalker, Cool)

Hi, I swapped the Starter Relay with another one and still have the same problem.

I will double check the voltages when I get home tomorrow afternoon to make sure that it has the correct voltages and if not, which is missing and let you know how I go.

The Radio is still showing "Code" and the fact that it started consistently for a full day after it was delivered home but then stopped working after I put it all back together gives me the impression that I may have either a bad earth somewhere or a loose connection??

Just a thought? Seems to be tied up with the ICC area maybe?

Anyway I shall let you know the voltage readings when I get them and we will know where to go from there I guess.

Hi there, as I said previously, I swapped the relay with another one but I also just now checked the voltages on the relay (As best I could because I can't get to the bottom of the relay at the moment) and the results are as follows,

Pin 30 - Ground

Pin 85 - Ignition Signal (13.8V when I turn the iginition to Start)

Pin 86 - 0V (Because I can't get to the bottom of it when it is in the car)

Pin 87 - Permenant 13.8V Power.

I put my fingers on the relay whilst trying to crank the engine and it doesn't appear to be clicking at all.

Next thought in the process??

OK, Thought that seemed all wrong.

I shall try the bridging tomorrow and see what that does and then also double check all of the readings to make sure I got it right.

Any thoughts as to what may produce the voltage readings that I am seeing here?

We are talking about the Starter Relay in the Fuse Box in the Engine Bay here not the IG Relay in the Fuse Box inside the Cabin of the car?

OK, I just went out and double checked my previous readings and the following is definitely correct (as in, what I found);

Pin 30 - Ground

Pin 85 - 13.8V on Start (ie: Ignition turned to start the car)

Pin 86 - 0V (Because I can't get to the bottom of the relay whilst it is in)

Pin 87 - Permanent 13.8V

Now, I swapped the relay with the one from the High beam and got the same results and then tested the original relay in the High Beam socket and it worked fine (ie: The High Beam came on correctly and the relay activated as it should)

So I guess the question is, How am I getting ground on Pin 30 when it is one side of the switch within the relay?

Pins 30 & 87 are the contacts on either side of the switch within the relay and Pins 85 & 86 are the contacts on either side of the coil within the relay. I looked at the wiring diagrams for this area (Yes, I have the full workshop manual, all 2500 pages of it) and going by it Pin 30 goes directly to the 40A Starter Fuse, Pin 87 goes directly to the Starter Resistor, Pin 86 goes to the Inhibitor Switch & also the P,R,N,D,L Switch and so I would therefore expect to see the voltages that you described on the the correct pins.

Wired up some LED Driving Lights a couple of months ago but nothing was screwed in that could cause any issues.

Just shorted Pin 30 and Pin 87 of the Relay Socket and the starter motor started cranking merrily away. Swapped all of the relays around still no joy and everything else remained working correctly so I think we can safetly rule out the relays or fuses as anything to do with the fault.

I will sit down in the morning and try and track through the wires to see if I am getting a short somewhere and let you know the results.

Well, Its taken me a while to get back to you mainly because I decided to pull the PRND Inhibitor Switch off the car the other day and checked it out to see if there was anything out of the ordinary there and then put it back on the car. Put everything back together on the car to get me back to a start point and then thought "What the Hell" and tried to start the car and would you believe it? it started first go.

Now I drove it happily for the week into work and to the train station without it missing a beat. Thought I would watch it this week and see what it did and it worked fine all week but then this afternoon I pulled up at the kids school to pick up my daughter and when I got back to the car it wouldn't start again. Almost the same symptoms though "Code" is no longer on the radio display. The radio works fine the car just will not crank at all, as if I still had it in gear or something. thought about shorting out the Inhibitor switch but aren't exactly sure as to which wires to short (its a six pin connector) so thought I would shoot this too you and see if it helps you any in the diagnosis of what might be wrong. Well I'm hoping so anyway as it is driving me insane.