Sorry you are haaving trouble. let me ask you a few questions first. have you checked to be sure the starter has power to it? Have you checked to see if you can jump the terminals at the starter to see if it will turn the motor from there. JIM
Got any info for me yet? Jim
So the other day I went to fire up the Rover and the key turned right to the end(fully clockwise) without engaging the starter. Then with the key in the off position it left the running lights on and the dash lights on. I had to disconnect the battery ground to shut off all the power. This morning we ( myself and a professional mechanic of fifty years experience on everthing from lawnmowers to fully computerized heavy dut6y multi ton turbo charged deisel excavators) used a remote starting unit to get the Rover going and we drove the vehicle to the shop. Once there we couldn’t shut it down. Removed the ground, kept running, disconnected the alternator, kept running, finally disconnected the positive battery post and it shut down. In dismantling the steering column we found a satellite power unit which was suspected, but no obvious way to remove the ignition switch. My mechanic hasn't worked on Range Rovers before this opne but has done consider work on this without any manuels. He figures there must be some trick that he isn't seeing for removing the ignition switch. Definitely the switch isn't working. Usually when you turn the fkey fully clockwise the spring loaded last 1/8 of the turn isn't there, the key just turns flatly to the end and stays there without springing back to the run position.
I'm back, excuse the typos, any further questions
no problem I was unclear weather or not you had a starter problem or wiring. now that you hav clarified. Seam like you have checked it out. you need someone who is familar with this problem. good luck i will opt out so someone experance can help you. Thanks for using just answer. Jim
I will be unavailable for the remainder of the evening will check in at 9 am pdt tomorrow and can be by the computer for any time during tomorrow(saturday)
Yes I still require an answer. It seems I have narrowed it down to a mechanincal failure of the keyed ignition switch. There doesn't appear to be a straight forward way To remove this unit from the steering assembly for replacement. It would be great if there were a special procedure for removing the keyed cylinder from the ignition switch for replacement or rebuilding. As it is the whole ignition mechanism is rivetted to the steering column and from our eyes it appears cutting tools are required. What aren't we seeing. If necessary I can photograph the assembly and send pictures. Thanks
I replied yesterday at 9:10 and haven't heard anything back. I see my status is finished but my question still remains. How do we remove this keyed ignition switch from the steering column for either repair or replacement. I recognize since it is an anti theft device it isn't going to be easy. Also my closest dealer is 600 KM away and most shops shake their heads when they see the Rover and say good luck. The fasteners that clamp this unit to the steering column are only exposed at the top end and are countersunk ito it's housing. They appear to be either rivets or headless bolts. Do these have to be cut or is their a hidden way to release the keyed cylinder?
NEW PROCEDURE FOR REPAIR OF IGNITION KEY INTERLOCK SOLENOID
For vehicles equipped with early production steering column (ANR3752) an interlock solenoid kit is
available which allows replacement of the interlock solenoid without replacing the steering column.
NOTE: Late-design columns must be replaced as an assembly.
It sounds like you have a late design that in order to replace it, you need to replace the whole assembly.
The vehicle is a 94 county lwb. Not sure whether this qualifies as a late model. Anyway am attaching a picture of the key cylinder side to see whether you think it is a late model or not.
Here is a service bulletin, I have found that I would like you to read.
Loose Starter Cable Connection
AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
* indicates updated information
LOOSE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT STARTER MOTOR
Vehicles equipped with a Bosch starter may experience non-start symptoms that suggest that the starter motor is not functioning correctly. These vehicles may fail to crank or intermittently may fail to crank.
The primary electrical connection between the starter and the battery may not be adequately tightened on vehicles exhibiting these symptoms. A low torque condition will not provide a solid electrical connection.
TIGHTEN CABLE CONNECTION TO SPECIFICATION
Whenever a no-crank situation is encountered on Range Rover or Discovery vehicles equipped with aBosch starter, the first check should be to tighten the main starter electrical cable connection to thespecified torque.
NOTE: The procedure in this TIB should always be performed before replacing a starter to eliminate the possibility that an improperly tightened solenoid nut is not the root cause of the no-crank problem.
FAULT CODE: S
Normal warranty policy and procedures apply
TIGHTEN STARTER SOLENOID NUT
NOTE: Replacement of the starter motor is not indicated unless the electrical connection has been checked for proper torque as described below.
Discovery Series II (LT) XA900012 to XA907212 XA200412 to 1A299999 1A700000 to 1A729921 Range Rover 4.0146 (LP) XA410483 to 1A459035
Here is the second bulletin that might help.
PRIDE IV 5-08
New Key Interlock Service Procedure
Ref: WSM section 57
TIB CIRCULATE Service Mgr Reception Workshop Parts
57/02/97/NAS X X X X
© Rover Group 1997
RANGE ROVER (LP) Up to VA370912 (Early-Design Column)
From VA370913 (Late-Design Column)
NOTE: Late-design columns must be replaced as an assembly. Because replacement
columns may be of the later design it is important to verify the column in the vehicle. See
below for specific information to determine whether a vehicle has an early or late style
DIAGNOSTIC STEPS FOR KEY INTERLOCK SOLENOID
1. Identify steering column type utilizing the identification procedure below.
2. Diagnose symptoms to determine if the fault is mechanical or electrical in nature.
3. Replace solenoid (or column assembly) or repair electrical circuit as necessary.
Refer to the Diagnosis and Repair sections for details.
STC4024 Interlock Solenoid Kit
NOTE: Late-design steering columns may not be repaired. They must be replaced if a
mechanical fault occurs. See the column identification section for details.
Replacement columns ordered through parts will supersede to the later design.
ANR3752 Early-Design Steering Column ........ (Repair is possible)
ANR6313 Late-Design Steering Column ......... (Repair not permitted)
57.40.50..................Time 1.00 hrs.
Replace interlock solenoid
57.40.01..................Time 1.45 hrs.
Replace steering column
PAGE 2 OF 4
STEERING COLUMN IDENTIFICATION
NOTE: Vehicles equipped with the late-design column (ANR6313) must use ANR6313 for
repair. A vehicle equipped with the early-design column (ANR3752) may be repaired or
the column may be replaced with the late-design column assembly.
If steering column replacement is necessary and a new-design column is used in a vehicle
previously equipped with the early-design, there are some differences between the two
steering columns which should be noted and reviewed with the customer. The
differences between the two columns are:
(1.3 in.) for ANR6313.
"feel" to the customer.
1. Telescope the column fully forward and tilt it fully downward.
2. Measure the distance between the bottom edge of the steering wheel and the floor to determine if the
steering column is serviceable. See Figure 1.
serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly. See WSM section 57.
NOTE: ANR6313. can also be identified by a bar code label on the lock cover plate (near
the ignition lock barrel).
PAGE 3 OF 4
Symptom: Solenoid damaged or disassembled
1. Proceed to replacement procedure.
Symptom: Key comes out when selector is not in "PARK"
1. Remove steering column shroud to access two pin solenoid connector.
2. Test for power to solenoid as follows:
3. If the test light is lit, the fault is mechanical. Go to the replacement procedure.
4. If the test light is not lit, the fault is electrical. Refer to the ETM for diagnosis.
Symptom: Key will not come out of ignition.
1. Verify that the key sticks.
2. Obtain radio code and disconnect battery negative terminal.
3. Recheck ignition lock operation.
4. If the lock operates normally, the fault is electrical. The solenoid is receiving power. Refer to ETM for
5. If the lock sticks, the fault is mechanical. Go to the replacement procedure.
1. Obtain radio code and disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Remove driver's side closure panel (six screws) .
3. Remove instrument pack trim (four screws).
4. Remove steering column shroud (six screws).
5. Remove the three bolts securing column tilt lever assembly
to column. See Figure 2, Ref. 3.
6. Remove lever and plastic release plunger from column. See
Figure 2, Ref. 4.
7. Disconnect and unclip ignition switch leads.
8. Remove two screws securing switch to column. See Figure
2, Ref. 7.
9. Remove switch
10. Remove interlocking cam. Note the orientation of the cam.
See Figure 4.
11. Disconnect interlock solenoid lead.
12. Remove two painted screws securing solenoid to column.
13. Remove solenoid.
CAUTION: Do not turn the slotted head on
the interlock solenoid plunger. The overall length
of the interlock solenoid plunger has been preset
at the factory and must never be altered.
Changing this setting will result in malfunction of
the solenoid. Turning the plunger will also defeat
the thread-locking compound used in
manufacture, causing the plunger adjustment
(Figure 3) to change in service.
PAGE 4 OF 4
1. Position interlock solenoid on steering column.
2. Install two solenoid screws.
3. Connect interlock solenoid leads.
4. Install interlock cam, being careful to install in the same
position as before. See Figure 4.
5. Position ignition switch on steering column.
6. Apply thread-locker (LoctiteÒ242) and install two screws
securing the switch to the column.
7. Connect and clip ignition switch leads.
8. Install plastic release plunger in column and fit steering
column tilt lever assembly.
9. Install steering column shroud.
10. Install instrument pack trim (four screws).
11. Install driver's side closure panel (six screws).
12. Connect battery negative lead.
13. Test ignition interlock:
14. Reset windows and sunroof and radio code. Synchronize remotes.
Of course when the ignition switch went fully clockwise and stayed there without engaging the starter and and without springing back to the run position one always hopes for a simple solution like loose battery cables, insufficiently charged battery or loose starter connection. The starter connection was checked twice, once when the key failed and a second time when we hooked up the remote starter switch. No faults in the electrical system, the rover fired up instantly when we hit the remote starter switch. We ran it 5 km to our garage. The engine ran with all electrical systems for twenty minutes before we tried to shut it down. With the key turned to the off position the engine and all electrical kept running, disconnected the negative terminal at the battery, engine kept runnnig, disconnected the alternator-engine kept running. Finally stopped when we disconnected the positive battery cable also.
Wished it were as simple as a replaceable solenoid that can be done in place but everything we have done and written in all these threads points to the key cylinder failure:
1. the key turns fully clockwise and stops there without springing back the 1/8 turn to the run position. It initially freed the steering column lock and the park brake lock.
2. When the key turned to the off position it wouldn't shut anthing down or turn off the power. The battery had to be disconnected.
3. With the battery disconnected, foot on the brake, key in any position the transmission shift is locked in park position.
4. With no key in the ignition, battery reconnected all electrical is functioning, foot on the brake and am able to fully shift the transmission selector. Key does not make any difference and it still will not engage the starter. To us all this points to a mechanical failure of the keyed ignition cylinder.
I appreciate the bulletins with the test procedures but everything comes back to failure of the keyed cylinder. My Rover doesn't have a tilt steering wheel although I realize the test procedures would be similar. The only numbers that I can find on the lignition unit is N3 C50011 These numbers can partially be seen between the 2 bolts,in the first of the 2 pictures that I sent youat 6pm on April 9. Secondly the word Valeo can be found on the outer casting along side the keyed cylinder and can be seen in the
picture sent on Apr 9 at 12:10
The fact that the key will not turn off the electrical or the engine indicates a mechanical faliure of the keyed ignition cylinder. All the electrical is fully functional and as a result we don't accept that it is a failure of the key interlock solenoid. So it seems like we're headed in two different directions and we're still faced with removing the ignition unit from the steering column and finding the best way to do that.