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Hello, my name isXXXXX chain are you looking to replace. This engine utilizes three different timing chains, a primary and left/right secondary's.
Sorry my internet connect went down temp. The code was for the left bank. I was under the impression that I would have to replace both sides. Not sure if that is true. I don't want to have to do this again. I was going to check the condition of the gears, chains and the idlers before I buy the parts. I was told by the dealer that the whole set was about $1000. Could find a parts store that sold them. Thanks, Don
How do I find this out. I have never been asked this question before. Does the vin give this info. Thanks, Don
Important: This design was used at the start of 2007 production of the Suzuki XL-7.
I looked on the driver door info. Say it was made in Canada in Oct, 2006. We puchased the car in Jan of 2007. Don
Name is XXXXX XXXXX i will assist you the best i can, please Only accept if you are happy with my answer.
Hi new Expert here so i can assist you with this issue could you please get mer the code
or codes that was gathered .
This car is known for problems with the idler sprocket on the timing chain ,but the codes would help.
If you don't have the codes, take a drive down to AutoZone and get a free code read out
and post them here for me .
kind regards Greg
Not sure what I did with the code Sheet. I know it was a p0008 code. Didn't remember any other codes. Thanks, Don
Hi Don .
This is a misalignment between both camshafts on one bank ofthe engine and the crankshaft which is due to the Sprocket idler being bad , this is the water pump type sound you are getting , this will be covered under the 7/100k powertrain warranty, unless it's a sensor problem.(If this still applies to you.)
I don't think this will be the chain that has stretched but more likely the idler arm.
I have repaired simula problem in just replacing the idle sprocket .
But to be honest have someone that has experiance to check this with a good dealer type scann tool .
The timing chain job is about 7 hrs even if only the idler is replaced .
Not being there to see or hear the engine makes it hard for me to be 100% but from what i have read this could well be your problem .
need further assistance please get back to me
Kindest regards Greg
We are over 100,000 miles on this car. I researched this problem quite a bit and the problem with the bad timing chain seems to be very common with this car. This is why I don't think it is a sensor issue. I agree with you that from the sound, that it is probably the idler, especially since on the way back from getting the code read, it stopped making any noise. I really need to get the car fixed, before my teenage daughter kills me. I need to get started unless you think it would be safe to drive for short distances. I just don't want to cause alot more expensive damage by driving it. I just need instructions so I don't break anything else taking it apart or putting it back together. This car has seems to have alot of high tech sensor parts. That is the only part I am afraid of. I changes the spark plugs in the car recently and I had to move alot of wires just to do that simple job. I just don't want to damage anything getting to the idler. Thanks, Don
To be absolutely honest even if you are a good DIY i would leave this to a good shop to check and replace the idler , with 100.000 this chain is probably still OK if the idler has not damaged it.
Keep driving NO , let say the chain is still ok and the idler is bad , you keep driving then this will eventually damaged the chain, and worst chain could brake causing complete engine damaged as this is an interference engine.
This job as said is an 7hr job i can do it in less, but as seen before i put a good tech of mine that had never done this before took him two days.
You want to do it, let me know and i will help you thought it .
Kind regards Greg
Good Morning. Well for me putting in the time is not really an issue. Just let me ask you one more question before I start this. Will I need to disconnect and motor mounts or any part of the drive train? Headed to church, thanks, Don
Good morning Don .
On this all that has to be done to prepare for timing chain removal is the radiator has to come out to give you room top work on the front end of the engine .
Ok with the ignition switch turned to the OFF position switch then to the ON(ACC) position .radio should shows Good if not switch off again and retry until you get the Word GOOD then do the input.
If you can not get the word GOOD on the screen
push 1 by 1 the following key6 - AM - AUTO-M - SEEK^ 4 dashes appears,
Enter code 4989 by using the select buttons 1-6
press and hold down the AUTO-M and 6 button until GOOD appears.
Let me know if this works
I can handle that. I am ready to go! If I can get to the chains today and decide what parts to order, then next weekend I can replace the parts and get most of it back together. Thanks, Don
ps. I will get back to you on the radio thing.
I will be here just come back to this same page ,
I have scheduling a follow-up! in 6 days to remind you.
Sorry, Haven't driven the car in awhile and the battery is dead. tried to charge it but it has a bad cell. Now off to the parts store to get a new battery. what is the radio code for? Can I start anything before I code the radio? Don
I bought a new battery. I don't drive this car much. Didn't remember the radio setup.
The radio gives no information other than radio info( vol, station,etc.). There in an info screen on the dash that gives mileage,batt,tire pressure,oil life, etc.. There is no auto-m button. I hate to keep bothering you. Is there some manual you could send me?
That post with the radio information was mistakenly put on your post as it was for someone else with a Mazda not the same system as yours .
Your Radio set up needs a code, check in your owners manual may still be there and manual will explain how to put in the codes .
I am confused, the radio works fine. I am wanting to replace the timing chain on this 2007 Suzuki xl7 awd. Can I get directions or a manual?
I to got confused ,due to the wrong info that was for someone else sorry .
will post you the info needed.
Attachments are only available to registered users.
Thanks Greg, I haven't looked over all the pages carefully but it looks like the info I need. If you can think of any tips to help please let me know. Don
ps. I clicked accept when you first sent me the info on the radio, I closed that screen. now if I click accept it says something about charging me again. I want you to get paid but I don't want to pay twice. Please advise.
Been paid Don thank you very much, and hope we can be of service in the future .
Don i'm here most times and if you need me just page in here .
If the chain is not damaged just replace the idle sprocket and you will not have to remove the timing chain , quick fix if you are lucky.
Instructions says to remove timing chain cover. From the looks of the picture I have to remove the valve cover. To do this I need to remove the throttle body or injector housing, not sure what it is called (big cast metal housing on top of the block that air goes into). Can I get instructions for that?
No hurry, won't be back til the end of the week.
OK i will get back to you.
I am back home now, were you able to find an answer to my last question about the throttle body?
If you relist you will get another expert , if you want another expert i can opt out if you want .
No. sorry, I didn't know that. I went ahead and took the throttle body off. Finally got the valve cover off. Next question; Haven't run the car in over 2 months, there is no oil on the head near the valves springs and cam shafts. Not a drop. Is this normal? Every car that I have ever worked on has had oil under the valve cover.
Which way does the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley turn to loosen? Any tips on an easy way to loosen the bolt? Can't get an air wrench in there. Thanks, Don
The bolt to remove is anti clockwise and a wrench with a hammer to shock loosen the bolt will get it lose ,this is if you don't have the pulley clamp tool to hold it .