Hi, My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am here to help. Can you tell me what colors the wires that you are referring to are?
The wire you can not find a receiver for has a white (or light grey) and a black wire. The other plug which this might possibly be mixed up with I have going to a black module at the b ack of the intake manufold. Those wire collors are blue and yellow. there does not appear to be a secondary trace color on that set of wires. The third plug I have plugged i nto the coil and it has a blue wire and
a yellow wire with a green tracer
I believe the coil set up is correct since I am getting spark
Ok, let me see if I can find those wires and see where they go
ok so far it shows a blue and a yellow with blue tracer going to coil. While I look for more, have you checked injector pulse to see if you lose that when it stalls?
How do I measure the injector pulse?
I also see a green and yellow with green going to the air regulator solenoid. Is there any way these two are switched? You check injector pulse with a noid light which is kind of like a test light that plugs into injector plug and flashes if there is a signal. Let's keep checking wiring for now
The wire colors are sometimes off-shade as a result of residue from the black tape wrap, so a blue and a green wire color can get mistaken in this case. Also I will try an incondesent light bulb which is more likely to give me a more true color. The three wire pair in this case are only about 5 inches long, so where ever they go to must be relatively close by. Off hand, do you know where the air regulator solenoid is located ?? my guess is on the throttle body. I do have a test light, but it appears that in order to get access to the injector plug that would most likely have to remove the throttle body and the fuel supply bar; which is not the worst thing to do, but was hoping to avoid this if I could. However ,, if all else fails.
I don't blame you for not wanting to take that apart and I would wait until you have tried everything else. It's hard for me to find an abundance of info on that year vehicle but it is possible that a plug going to another engine control might only get power during start up and then not. So if that wire were going to your coil then you could lose power to the coil causing a stall. Just speculating at this point. The yellow with blue going to the coil should have power with the key on so if you could rig up your test light to monitor that while the engine stalls and see if you lose power to the coil that might give a clue.
Also is the mass air flow sensor plugged in?
This sounds like an easer test, as earlier today I was going to try by removing the spark plugs from the head and see if they would still produce a visible spark, better yet I'll try using my timing light. But I'll start by measuring the voltage at the wire pair plug I have in the coil. What you said does make sense even if the engine will restart (for 3 seconds) every time. Yes, there is a possibility that the receiving end to the mistery plug is buried under the fuel supply bar and wraped up in the wire harnes. By the way, the pair of wires I have pluged up to the coil are blue and yellow with a green tracer (apparent green). I will return to the shop to conduct some voltage tests and get a better look at the colors. Be back soon.
Ok. I hope that's it.
Also make sure the mass air flow is connected properly
Well, not to keep you up too late, but this is what I found out so far after conducting several start-up tests and more digging around:
Upps, let me start all over and not hit the "enter" key. After conducting several start-up tests and further probing around, this is what I found so far: 1. The wire, yellow with blue tracer continued to have power as long as the key was on (as it should) and continued to have power after the engine cut-out (key always left on during the test). 2. The wire, yellow with green tracer is wrapped immediately to the plug I have plugged into the coil, which has a single wire plug which goes to the coil condenser. 3. Using a timing light (which can have it's occasional no-show flashes), showed that the spark wire continued to get a charge even while the engine started to cut out but the crank was still rotating. Based on this I believe I have the proper set of plug/wires attached to the coil. 4. I did some further testing of the "mystery plug", which showed the black wire went to ground (as would be expected) and the white wire appears to never have any charge or power at any time during the testing. So I just went ahaed and grounded the white wire which resulted in no apparent change or improvement. So that is it in a nut shell. Yes, if I could only get a wiring diagram of the fuel injector system, as for one thing I would like to know if a "cold start enrichment system" exisited. Also, yes I did check the air flow sensor several days ago and it look "ok". But,, get this, when I ran the on-board diagnostics (sp??), the only problem detected was the "air flow sensor", the only item which showed up as a problem. However, this detection may have occured when I was running the starter to turn the engine un-wired (everything else disconnected) in order prime the engine with oil and fuel (I'm an old farm boy). However, I kept this in mind and cleared the on-board diagnostics system, wired everything up and following several re-starts there was no indication of any detected diagnostics problems on the on-board system. I'm not sure what to trust. Anyway, this is the latest,, good luck.
Oh , one more thing,, it's ok to just sleep on it as I'm turning the day off. We can pick it up in the morning.
I hope this info helps. I would also check all your grounds that needed to be removed to pull head.
That is great that it's running good. I didn't receive this info if you posted it before. I am glad you followed up with me and always happy to hear repair success stories. It was a pleasure working with you. Take care,