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Yes, I have managed to get the engine running. Last week it wouldn't start, at first we thought it was out of Gas because the gauge doesn't work (hasn't since we bought it a few years back). I put some in but still couldn't get it to start. Tried a little started fliud to see if I could get it to kick over, and when that failed I had it towed to the house.
On Saturday I checked for Spark (all seem Good), Fuel Pressure (@40), and even did a compression test on all cylinders (110-120psi Each). Loosened up the Fuel Enjector line and checked fuel flow and all the injectors seemed to have a symetrical Flow.
I put everything back together and got it started. Sunday My son said it acted up a littlem and then Yesterday once again it wouldn't start, but I eventually got it up and running with a little starter fluid as a boost and it seems to be starting with a little hessitation at first.
The Check Engine light does not work, I took it to Advanced Auto parts and I got codes for multiple misfires, and #6 Fuel Injector curcuit.... (I ordered a new Injector due in later today but doubt that is the main issue)
The issue with no power on take off from a dead started (stopping at a light or interection), is a much graver issue, it litterally is like a Flinstone car. In Park /Nuteral it rebbs up fine but in drive /reverse it litterally has no initial pickup. It will roll forward without giving it any gas, but hessites until it gets rolling a bit.
Is there a way to test the the MAF
Eveything looks in order (like new) from the Air Filter to the Intake Manifold which I take it the MAF is the electronic housing unit with in plastic line between the Filter and Intake maifold
Hey thanks for the hint?
FYIYour answer was in the right ball park.... The MAP the MAF and the Trottle Body Control were all acting up (all intermittently).... Ughhhh!!! I just so happen to own 4 other Rodeo's and I had my worker bring one by the house to swap parts as to a trial of the issues...
Starting with the MAP ($56)- on change in my son's car but my workers truck was acting up a like and on the test run the worker truck went back an forth = same issue with the MAF ($53) and later the Trottle Body Control ($83).....when we swapped all 3 together my son's truck/ SUV was work (OK not perfect but better), and my worker's SUV ran like crap (not as bad as my Son's car was but not good)..
1st option was going to be changing out all 3 parts ---- but being the stingy tight wad I am... I tried a little carborator cleanner (on the parts /Senors) and cleaned them with a lint free rag//// and we tried it all over ---- and whallllaaahhh My Son's vehicle is running just fine (as is my workers SUV).... saved myself @ $190+....
Note to self - do not use started fliud to try and kick over the motor --- it leaves a film on the MAP / MFP and Throttle Body Senors---- LOL